Author Topic: How much rust is too much rust honestly? (Read 2411 times)

theman53 · « **on:** August 17, 2008, 10:36:13 am »

I finally started the rebuild of the 1.6 TD motor that is in my garage. I just started to take it apart anyway. I bought the longblock with the TD pump, ac, alt, and flywheel for 200.00. It has been inside of 2 garbage bags and inside a barn since being taken from the wreck. I got the head off last night and it looks rebuildable, but the block looks pretty bad. The back side of the engine has rust in the cylinders, except for #3. I couldn't turn it over by hand when I bought it, but thought I can always bore it if need be. I don't know how much bore it will take to clean it up. I can get pictures but I am looking to tear it all the way down after this post. It only had 80,000 miles on it too. The pump still has diesel in it, but it will have to be rebuilt as well, because it turns over real hard. No matter what I do with the vw's it seems I can't find the winning combination. How bad have you guys seen a block that was rusted and rebuilt?

madmedix · « **Reply #1 on:** August 17, 2008, 11:30:18 am »

Dying to know too; I have a 1.6 TD (complete) sitting on an engine stand that was pulled from a wreck that was running...that was 2 years ago...

dillenger1 · « **Reply #2 on:** August 17, 2008, 03:22:55 pm »

Dpends on whether you want the coolant to run effieciently.The rust will clog passages,but you can bore the cylinders as long as the rust doesent go 1mm down.

theman53 · « **Reply #3 on:** August 17, 2008, 03:29:34 pm »

I got the ac compressor, IP, Alt, vac pump, water pump, intermeadiate shaft pulley, and crank pulley off. I took a block of wood and beat the piston back and forth, now it is completely freed up. It looks alot better too, must have been condensation. I looked at the HG last night and couldn't tell if it was bad, but in the better light today I could tell that it looked ok.
I think it should be rebuildable now, but might take more than .020 over, but I think that the machine shop will tell.
Is there a certain procedure on taking the crank, rods, and intermeadiate shaft out? Also when it is time, how do you do the 5 peice or whatever peice main bearing? The thrust washer one. I have american gas engines, but this is the first diesel. Anyone just let me know. Lucas ><>

dillenger1 · « **Reply #4 on:** August 17, 2008, 04:54:24 pm »

slotted 360 bearing on number 4

arb · « **Reply #5 on:** August 18, 2008, 02:46:49 pm »

Hi Lucas,

Now that you have a bear block, have it hot tank cleaned. This will remove all the rust - inside and out. Remove your freeze plugs and the block heater if you have one before you take it in.... when I say bear I mean bear. If you left the oil filter boss on it and they didn't catch it, it would dissolve in the tank as Aluminum reacts with the caustic soda in the tank. Any good auto parts shore has a machine shop - Like NAPA stores.

They can also line bore it to the next size piston if the rust you talk about pitted any of the cylinder walls.

When you get it back a few days later, take it to a coin car wash and pressure wash it inside and out. When you get it home and its dry, pain it with engine paint before long.