The IP and the Naughty Cold Start Cable... - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• The IP and the Naughty Cold Start Cable... by madmedix on 16 Aug, 2008 22:18
• Alrighty. Got the 87 Golf running again after a stint providing shade for my driveway  
  Couldn't understand it. Would not start (she started regularly and easily but I let it go these last months  :oops: ).
  So: Let's time this puppy and make sure. Got 'er right on .039" (1mm), still no joy. She cranks and cranks and cranks with sort-of-burned fuel out the back and she wants to fire but....so I check the timing again. Right on. However, this time I notice something. I ask the boss (wife) to make sure the cold start lever is pushed in. It is not. She pushes it in while I'm fiddling with the pump and the cable moves...but the lever it's attached to does not. Hmmm. I take a long screwdriver, loosen the screw and push the flat screw head that tightens on the cold start cable and push it towards the front of the IP (pulley) and it started with a touch of the key.
  My question is, now what? How will this car start in the winter when I need to pull out the cold start lever? It will not start if I pull it out now. What is the normal position of the cold start lever (IP side)?
• #1 by kane66 on 17 Aug, 2008 01:25
• hmmm. my car won't start and it's a pump issue. I haven't check to see if I'm this.... wonder if it's the problem..... will have to see
• #2 by Smokey Eddy on 17 Aug, 2008 05:36
• yeah me too
  this really helps me but im sorry i can't help you
• #3 by Turbinepowered on 17 Aug, 2008 10:22
• Normal "off" position for the cold start device is with the knob pushed in, with the lever positioned all the way to the front of the IP.
  
  If you don't start with the cold start lever pulled, check your glow plugs to ensure that all of them are functioning properly. If they all work, then check your pump timing.
• #4 by madmedix on 17 Aug, 2008 11:26
• Plugs are fresh and getting juice. (The knob was pushed in during the timing in both instances..just left it out after the first starting attempt). The answer I was looking for was the level on the IP side is pushed all the way forward. I'll have to check it out. The PO must have bent the cable b/c when I loosened the screw on the IP side it slid back and is bent. I pulled it up and discovered the PO filled it with solder/flux to keep it from unravelling/straight? Back's too sore to finish up today, I'll try again soon.
  
  Andy
• #5 by arb on 18 Aug, 2008 13:59
• How important is the old start lever ? I don't recall having ever used one on the 3 IDI's I've owned, but they were all pre-1982.5
  
  My IP on my current project has this lever. Do I need it ? I'm going to put a 12v "toaster" in the intake close to the head. My 85' Escort diesel had one of these and it would always out-start my VW's in a cold soaked upper peninsula winter.
• #6 by Smokey Eddy on 24 Aug, 2008 19:18
• I did that with my cold start level like you suggested but it didn't change anything. If i take the glow plug wire off the fuse and ram it into the hot terminal of the battery, walk over to the drive door, let about 5 seconds pass, turn the key it will start much faster than im used to so i think my relay is messed up and not sending enough power to the GPs.
  I always throught the cold start has to be very precise? does yours still lock in the full "out" possition?
• #7 by catlin_cava on 24 Aug, 2008 20:38
• Off topic, I can get my 1.9 to turn over, shes taking fuel, and if i shoot some eather to it it starts but won't idle and won't start on its own...And te GP light inside doesn't come on anymore, Yet the motor was running before i took it out of the donor car and i reconnected like it was before...
• #8 by Smokey Eddy on 24 Aug, 2008 21:56
• the IP may be muddled a bit and the fuel screw be too low/idle screw too low?
  just an idea: try turning the fuel screw up a bit and have someone ready to shut it off if it runs away on you (very unlikely but ... worth trying in my opinion). I'm my eyes, adding the ether was just like adding more fuel. Try a compression test too perhaps? get some extra heat shields and try that. they''re very cheap so i'd get at least 8 so you dont have to go out and get them next time you feel like taking the injectors off
• #9 by burn_your_money on 25 Aug, 2008 07:52
• madmedix it sounds like you have your engine timed wrong. I think you need to re-time it with the cold start in the off position
• #10 by arb on 25 Aug, 2008 08:38
• My cold start cable was never in the Dodge caravan... thats why I'm askin ghow important it is... I never used them in my other IDI's I've owned.
  
  As I understand them, pulling the cable is going into cold start timing... pushing it all the way in is normal timing and operation, so If I don't install a cable and run it all the way in I'll be OK in all but the coldest climent if I don't use the block heater it came with.
• #11 by arb on 25 Aug, 2008 08:39
• Quote from: "burn_your_money"

  madmedix it sounds like you have your engine timed wrong. I think you need to re-time it with the cold start in the off position

  
  
  madmedix - have you verified all your glow plugs are getting juice ? Could be when you did the transplant they are not. The dash light does not mean they are getting anything.
• #12 by Duster 5.9 on 01 Sep, 2008 23:10
• yes try a retime making sure the cold start is in. if it was out when you timed it then you are way off.
  the new car manual states that you should always use the cold start when engine basically has no heat to it for the day.
  also do check all glow plugs, yes it's a pain, but you have to make sure they all work.
• #13 by madmedix on 02 Sep, 2008 19:28
• Sorry for the delay folks; my main computer is dead and I've now got my hands on a little eeePC.
  1) The glows are new and getting juice. How "good" a quality it is I'll check. I wouldn't be surprised if it starts out wonderful and then curves down through the timing cycle. She is 21 years old.
  2) The pump was timed with the cold start cable pushed in (and made sure the lever on the side of the IP was as far forward as she could go with the cable connected). I may just pull that cable since the meathead PO soldered it stiff and re-time it with the lever forward whilst I wait for another cable.
  
  If it works out well, I'll pimp out the plugs and other stuff to get her back on the road....but the Jetta comes first, and I've just got my paws on the parts to swap out her power steering to manual.
  
  Cheers,
  Andy
• #14 by arb on 03 Sep, 2008 09:56
• Great Andy, glad to see another converting from power steering to manual !!  I thought I was the only one ;-)