Author Topic: replacing seal on AGS 020 tranny selector shaft (Read 5506 times)

chrissev · « **on:** May 30, 2005, 05:30:04 am »

anyone ever replaced the gear selector shaft sealing washer? Do I have to disassemble the transmission or just pull the shaft out and put it back in with the new seal?

thanks

Chris

srivett · « **Reply #1 on:** June 06, 2005, 12:40:39 am »

It should be pretty easy to do. The lever that is attached to the shaft has a large notch on it so you won't be able to put it on the wrong way. Beneath the rubber boot is a typical seal. With some patience and a seal puller you should be able to yank out the old seal without pulling the shaft. FWIW I had my AGS upside down and it appeared to me that the vent was somewhere around the selector shaft but on the opposite side of the seal. My AWY had a normal vent up on top.

I'm surprised to hear that you are losing a lot of oil that far up on the gearbox.

Steve

rackley · « **Reply #2 on:** June 06, 2005, 07:47:08 am »

Hey I'm actually waiting on the seal to do this exact same job :-)

It seems straightforward enough. Just take off the 12 or 13mm nut so metal selector bar will come off the shaft (already did that part.) Then just pull the old seal and put the new one on.

The circlips for the drive flanges were the fun part though. Why they couldn't just put eyelets in those clips is beyond me. Heh.

chrissev · « **Reply #3 on:** June 08, 2005, 05:51:03 pm »

Quote from: "srivett"

It should be pretty easy to do. The lever that is attached to the shaft has a large notch on it so you won't be able to put it on the wrong way. Beneath the rubber boot is a typical seal. With some patience and a seal puller you should be able to yank out the old seal without pulling the shaft. FWIW I had my AGS upside down and it appeared to me that the vent was somewhere around the selector shaft but on the opposite side of the seal. My AWY had a normal vent up on top.

I'm surprised to hear that you are losing a lot of oil that far up on the gearbox.

Steve

So you're telling me I can remove and replace the seal without having to remove the selector shaft? That is my big issue right now because to remove the selector shaft I need a 27mm allen head socket, or a 27mm hex head bolt with two nuts locked on the end of it, and I'm having a hard time finding this. If I can remove the seal without removing the selector shaft, I am laughing.

Yes, the transmission is leaking fluid from that seal. I thought it was the speedo cable hole that was leaking but when I removed the rubber boot on the shaft a bunch of fluid came out so I know now that the shaft seal is bad.

chrissev · « **Reply #4 on:** June 08, 2005, 05:54:31 pm »

Quote

The circlips for the drive flanges were the fun part though. Why they couldn't just put eyelets in those clips is beyond me. Heh.

yeah I did that job already. I did both flange seals in October so the car would be ok for the winter, then in January I noticed that one flange was leaking again, so took it back off (in -15 degree weather, outside) and discovered that the flange had a groove worn into it, so had to spend $120 on a new flange. That was a bit of a bummer.

Rat407 · « **Reply #5 on:** June 08, 2005, 06:22:07 pm »

At least you can get yours off, 2 transmission shops later and I still have bad seals, the shops couldn't get the flanges off and didn't want to break something so they didn't mess with it any further. I'm stuck with leaking flange seals unless I can get them off myself some how. Next step is a 2x4 and a sledge hammer.

srivett · « **Reply #6 on:** June 08, 2005, 07:08:36 pm »

Chrissev: I just went and ripped the seal out of my AWY for kicks. It took me under 60 seconds to dig the seal out with a screwdriver. The rod is hardened machined steel so it didn't even scratch. Even so, I suggest using a seal remover if you have room in the car.

http://chat.carleton.ca/~srivett/IMG_0820.jpg

RAT: I don't know if the gearbox can tolerate it but you are going to need to use a slidehammer once you get the clips out. You don't need to compress the hubs to remove the clips. EDIT: As noted below you should have something preventing the flanges from moving out more than 1 inch.

Steve

rackley · « **Reply #7 on:** June 09, 2005, 07:20:07 am »

Um...you DO need to compress the flange to remove the circlips unless you don't like your hands and/or face. There is a TON of force in those springs. I used the flange compression tool, removed the circlip, then remove the tool. I didn't realize since this is my first flange, that the flange was actually stuck in the splines. I used a screwdriver to try to pry it up, and BOOM it shot up and literally hit the ceiling of my garage. Luckily I wasn't leaning over it.

The second flange wasn't stuck and came up gradually with the compression tool.

If the flange doesn't push up against the tool for about an inch or more past the circlip mouting point then it's stuck and be VERY careful with it.

chrissev · « **Reply #8 on:** June 09, 2005, 06:25:56 pm »

Quote from: "srivett"

Chrissev: I just went and ripped the seal out of my AWY for kicks. It took me under 60 seconds to dig the seal out with a screwdriver. The rod is hardened machined steel so it didn't even scratch. Even so, I suggest using a seal remover if you have room in the car.

thanks for testing that for me. I am going to be doing it upside down so it should be a bit more interesting (leaning in from the front of the car and bending over the transmission). I will do it this weekend.

Chris

chrissev · « **Reply #9 on:** June 09, 2005, 06:27:45 pm »

Quote from: "rackley"

Um...you DO need to compress the flange to remove the circlips unless you don't like your hands and/or face. There is a TON of force in those springs. I used the flange compression tool, removed the circlip, then remove the tool. I didn't realize since this is my first flange, that the flange was actually stuck in the splines. I used a screwdriver to try to pry it up, and BOOM it shot up and literally hit the ceiling of my garage. Luckily I wasn't leaning over it.

The second flange wasn't stuck and came up gradually with the compression tool.

If the flange doesn't push up against the tool for about an inch or more past the circlip mouting point then it's stuck and be VERY careful with it.

Use a puller and stand way out of the way. The springs, as the above poster has said, are very springy. The flanges pop out with quite a bit of force. If you think it is fun getting the flanges off, wait till you see how much effort is involved in getting them back on!

rackley · « **Reply #10 on:** June 10, 2005, 01:04:14 pm »

If it were me I'd just get the tool. It makes it super easy, especially since you don't have to worry about it moving or popping off when you're busy screwing with those circlips.