Gov Mod a few pics and some questions about boost - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• Gov Mod a few pics and some questions about boost by xtrigger on 10 Aug, 2008 13:37
• 1990 VW Jetta 1.6D w/TD parts installed been running for 30k np, I just want more ballz...
  
  I have a picture of the Gov modded, But I want to make sure its right...
  
  I removed both springs and replaced with spacers, its solid now
  
  
  
  A few questions
  
  how do I increase the boost? I only get around 7 but if im in high gear I get 10-12...
  
  Increasin boost  only done by the fuel mixture bolt on the side of the IP?
  
  I plugged the WG line that leads to the top of the front of the turbo, and plugged that hole too, But there still is one line from tht WG goin into the front of the turbo inlet (on the bottem slides in)
  
  Do I need to cap that one too?
  
  I read alot of the threads but cant seem to find much about turnin the boost up...
  
  Is it the LDA on the top of the pump (13mm bolt and t-25 screwdriver to adjust) I turned it in, didnt do much
  
  Also is an mk3 1.9TD (94 car) exhasut downpipe a decent upgrade?
  
  I want to run at least 2.25 exhaust to only a muffler (high flow)
  
  Also how much boost can the stock turbos handle? Im only lookin to run around 15psi max w/intercooler
  
  thanks alot for reading...
  
  Im not new to VW diesels or Turbo systems but this is different then gassers by far...
• #1 by Dirtrag2 on 10 Aug, 2008 13:48
• I know nothing about gov. mod but as for your boost, first off wich turbo are u running? 1990 TD should either be a T3 or a K24.
  K24 needs wastegate adjustment by way of the rod.
  T3 needs a valve between gate and turbo on rubber line. ( a lawnmower fuel valve is cheap and works well as a boost controller. )
  
  Good luck
• #2 by gigaz2 on 10 Aug, 2008 14:44
• you should only shim the main spring, the big one, and by shim I don't mean to replace it like you did, just give a bit of preload to the spring.
  
  there is a blow-off valve in the intake, its set to 10 PSI, I bet thats why you can't get over that value.
  
  do you have an oil cooler and EGT gauge? high pressures without them is asking for trouble.
• #3 by xtrigger on 10 Aug, 2008 14:57
• EGT im still dont have one, but looking into it
  
  Oil cooler on the Oil filter housing
  
  but I have a FM Oil cooler Im gonna install
  
  Im not sure, all i no is there is no WG rod, the WG/poppette valve or w.e is built into the ehaust housin... all that is visable is the 2 lines comin from the top of it to the turbo compressor hosuing
  
  Im gonna lean it beein a k24, but I did notice a Mxx or somethin on the hosuing... I wanted to upgrade to a k26 from a Quatro but I dont think its needed...
  
  I read somewere that it beein solid isnt a huge issue... they said to reload the main spring and repalce the other... O well I know I shouldnt reve it more then 5k anyways...
• #4 by jimfoo on 10 Aug, 2008 15:27
• It will be absolutely undrivable like that! Replace the intermediate spring and use AT MOST 1/4" of shims on the main spring.
• #5 by xtrigger on 10 Aug, 2008 15:34
• so keep the small spring spacer i put in (the last spacer on the link)
  
  and just replace the much larger heaver spring back with only a 1/4" spacer... so like 2 washerss
  thanks
  
  Ill do that... i have 3 of them so It was just a simple process
  
  HERE IT is now... I believe this is it... It still has movement if pulled hard enough
  
  
• #6 by jimfoo on 10 Aug, 2008 15:36
• Put the small spring back in with no spacers and use 2-3 on the main spring.
• #7 by xtrigger on 10 Aug, 2008 15:45
• so brng the smaller one back to stock, and just add another to the big spring
  
  ill post pic when ever I get back, i need to leave to get some stuff
• #8 by VW_Commuter on 10 Aug, 2008 15:46
• Can someone post a pic of a properly modded governor shaft?  I understand the main spring needs to be preloaded to raise the RPM that the governor starts to defuel the engine at but it would help to know what it's supposed to look like when done.
• #9 by jimfoo on 10 Aug, 2008 16:33
• 
  It can be shimmed more than that, but that's the basic idea.
• #10 by Baxter on 10 Aug, 2008 17:29
• As far as I understand it, shimming the main spring only suits NA models.
  Shimming the main spring and disabling the small, light spring is for TD models.
  That's my understanding of it.
  having tried doing both springs to a NA motor, I re did it just by shimming the big spring and that was much better.
  I'm no pump guru, and could be wrong, I'm sure one of the more enlightened amongst us will furnish the page with a bit more detail when they get a minute.
  Mind you, saying that, I've probably just killed this thread right off and I will be the last poster and it will dissapear off of the bottom of the page in days...
   :lol:
• #11 by burnt_servo on 10 Aug, 2008 18:40
• last week i shimmed the main with a 1/4" spacer , undid some other stuff , but kept the secondary spring shimmed 1/8 " .
  
  very drivable , no weirdness  and the gov doesn't kick in till well over 5,000 rpm now .