So i know they are supposed to smoke - page 2 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #15 by Guipo on 01 Aug, 2008 17:02
• believe it or not, it only has 120k on it.(or what the odo says).  The Vacuum pump was out for a long long time, and is now fixed.  That sucks from the crankcase if I'm right.  So that might be fixed now.
• #16 by janb on 01 Aug, 2008 20:12
• Quote from: "Guipo"

  Replaced the Air Filter.  It was coated in Oil and Gunk.  So hopefully that will help.  Why would the Air filter be coated?
  
  I couldnt identify the screw.  Anyone have a pic?

  
  
  http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/jag/vw/engine/fi/injpump.html
  
  Full load adjusting screw (upper right on back (dist side) of pump)  Typically has a lock ring to avoid 'overfuelling'... hint... your engine can run away with too much of this adjustment to the 'rich side'.
  
  If you are looking for less smoke, go counterclockwise 1/8 turn at a time and do a 'full throttle' blip and look for a little black smoke (that gets it about right).
  
  If it is black smoke (diesel) air starvation OR too much fuel is usually the main issue. (or your foot is in it too far when under load... not good for head gaskets either). The air filter element should be ~2" thick, not the 1" thick one for gas engines (and is the one FRAM thinks you should use for Diesel  :roll: )  get the thick one.  Diesels need lots of air
  
   you can run bio-D to help reduce smoke... brew your own
  http://www.biodieselcommunity.org/appleseedprocessor/
  
  Oil in Air filter is typical bad sign of blow by, and seems to be worse in early engines.  The cam 'splash' cover is a standard gas engine part ~ $10 (8v GTI (85-89) was one application that used it, or go to the junk yard or ask for one on Craigs list.
  
  You might want to build a 'snorkel' for your oil vent hose.  The TDI page has some options for the early (96-99.5) engines.  Basically it is a 'trap' like under your sink.  You just run the hose into some plastic fittings you glue up, with a chamber filled with metal pot scrub pad or two, it has a drain plug, and forces air to make a 90 degree bend,  Empty the drain as often as necessary. (hint, build a deep one, ~ 1/2 pint)
  
  You should be able to get 44+ mpg with the 4 spd.  I had one that got 60 in an early Rabbit.
• #17 by Guipo on 01 Aug, 2008 23:52
• Cool Thanks.  After replacing the air filter, smoke is no longer a major problem.  
  
  Now to fix the oil in the air filter, and it should be alot better.  What a mess that was.  
  
  I did check the blow by, and there is quite a bit.  Sounds pretty Standard for diesels, but never good.
  
  You know my chevy diesel has a CDR vent that has a brillo pad type thing in it that stops oil.  Would something like that work for me?
  
  Thanks for all the help guys.  I'm glad that there's a community for such a rare car.  I look forward to being a part of it for a while.  Thanks again for everything!
  
  Guipo
• #18 by janb on 02 Aug, 2008 02:35
• something else that may help reduce blow-by is to increase oil viscosity.
  
  I use 20w-50 in my early engines (non-hydraulic... pre-'86).  They seem to like it much better than 15-40 (they use less of it and run quieter).
  You should be safe with heavy oil in your warm climate, you will need to rebuild it when it will no longer start in cold weather. (or plug in a tank type water heater), eventually it will just not start even when warm.  A good battery and starter will keep it spinning fast enough to start for awhile.
  
  Rings and bearings are cheap.  If you have good oil pressure, you can possibly get by with an econo 'in-frame' rebuild.  If you have low oil pressure you probably have bad intermediate cam bearings, which require removal of the engine to repair. Valve Guides and seals will probably be a big help too, the head is our 'weak' link.  :oops:
• #19 by Smokey Eddy on 02 Aug, 2008 04:27
• the circled screw is the fuel screw. I know thats a pump for something with 6 cylinders but they look identical. Look there and you'll see your screw if you haven't already
• #20 by Guipo on 05 Aug, 2008 15:03
• Thanks for all the Help guys.  Down the road I'll probadly throw a 1.6 in it.  Who do you guys' like for rebuilds?
• #21 by Possum79 on 05 Aug, 2008 16:46
• if you ever get ride of the 1.5 you can always give it to me  :lol:
  
  I want a 1.6TD for my car but can afford to do it.
• #22 by zukgod1 on 05 Aug, 2008 17:13
• Most of us rebuild our own junk to save funds..
• #23 by Guipo on 05 Aug, 2008 17:22
• do you piece together stuff, or buy kits?
• #24 by zukgod1 on 05 Aug, 2008 18:14
• PM myke_w on this board for parts, he can get you everything you need.
• #25 by Possum79 on 05 Aug, 2008 18:54
• you can always compression test to check the wear level on your current engine.
• #26 by Guipo on 05 Aug, 2008 19:18
• I plan on it.  I'm just covering all my bases!  You wouldnt happen to have a diesel compression tester would ya!  
• #27 by Possum79 on 05 Aug, 2008 21:29
• I do! I just bought one from harbor freight and yet to use it. If you wana bum it I'm willing to help. I need to do mine I'm just concerned of breaking something on mine. You have to take out the injectors for this one to work.
• #28 by VW Fox on 07 Aug, 2008 13:33
• Quote from: "Guipo"

  Down the road I'll probadly throw a 1.6 in it.

  
  
  Do it!  Using Quantum TD parts, the swap is really easy.  A Quantum downpipe even fits perfectly.  48HP -> 68HP is a big jump.
  
  For transmissions, look to the 4-cyl VW Quantum/Audi 4000 and VW Fox.  The Fox's 4-speed has a taller 4th and is almost a direct swap (rear transmission mount is different).  The 5-speeds fit as well (I've got a 5M in mine), but require transmission tunnel modifications, the mount mentioned above and 5-speed linkage.
• #29 by Guipo on 07 Aug, 2008 14:12
• oh gosh, I'd love a new transmission.  I think if I can get a motor from a junk yard, work on it slowly would be the best idea.