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chewed flange cap!
by
rabbitman
on 28 Jul, 2008 13:44
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Ok, so I needed to change the clutch for the past two years and finally got around to it last week. Anyways, in changing the output shaft seals I noticed the drivers side flange center cap had a .5 inch hole in the middle of it, apparently the output shaft and driveshaft are pinching it as they turn and chewed right through it. What on earth makes the two shafts that close together? About a year and a half ago I put a new empi driveshaft in, maybe it's too long :roll:. That would be my luck. Thanks
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#1
by
Dakotakid
on 29 Jul, 2008 07:01
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Did someone (you?) damage the little cap when it was installed?? As in use a socket to pop it in place only to go too far with it initially??
I do not have my Bentley in front of me....but there are supposed to be a spacer washer and then a spring washer that goes on the axle shaft prior to the placement of the inside cv joint on that axle shaft. The outer aspect of the cv joint (as in towards the side of the car) butts up against these as it bears thrust on the axle shaft machined shoulder.
There should be an exploded illustration of this in the Bentley.
On one side of the inner cv joint, there is the circlip which keeps the joint on the shaft. On the other side of this same cv joint are these two washer/shims (whatever they are called) (which I have made reference to above).
If these were omitted, it would seem to contribute to a certain amount of lateral "float" of the axle.....perhaps responsible for the hogged out cap. Other than that, I would see how much lateral movement is in the shaft exitting the trans. Bearing problems??
Got a picture?
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#2
by
rabbitman
on 29 Jul, 2008 11:05
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Did someone (you?) damage the little cap when it was installed?? As in use a socket to pop it in place only to go too far with it initially??
I've never taken the cap out.
As for the washers behind the inner CV joint, I'll have to check, I got a complete shaft with both joints on it so not sure if the spacers are there or not. That could very well be it. I'll check.
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#3
by
Dakotakid
on 29 Jul, 2008 20:53
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I looked in a Bentley tonight. I was wrong about there being two washers on this inner cv joint. There is only one. It is referred to as a "dished washer." Note: I am making reference to a Mk. II axle. It has been a long time since I touched Mk. I, but I think they are the same.
It is the outer joint which has the two. Here you find a dished and a thrust.
I do continue to believe you may be lacking this dished washer. I apologize for misinformation.
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#4
by
rabbitman
on 30 Jul, 2008 11:39
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yeah I checked that and I do have the dished washer.
I wrote brokevw.com and he said I could grind the driveshaft a bit and the tranny output shaft to make more room in there.
I just had a brainstorm.....you know the slotted holes in the control arm that the balljoint bolts into. Maybe I need to slide the balljoint out on the arm all the way to give the driveshaft more room. What are those slots for anyways? I always thought it was another camber adjustment but thats adjusted with the strut mount.
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#5
by
zukgod1
on 30 Jul, 2008 12:13
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yeah I checked that and I do have the dished washer.
I wrote brokevw.com and he said I could grind the driveshaft a bit and the tranny output shaft to make more room in there.
I just had a brainstorm.....you know the slotted holes in the control arm that the balljoint bolts into. Maybe I need to slide the balljoint out on the arm all the way to give the driveshaft more room. What are those slots for anyways? I always thought it was another camber adjustment but thats adjusted with the strut mount.
Good idea on the ball joint. And if you are referring to where the strut mounts to the knuckle than yes that can be another adjustment for camber. Caster really isn't adjustable on these things.
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#6
by
rabbitman
on 30 Jul, 2008 12:46
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:cry: :cry: I just checked.....the slotted holes must've only been on mk2s, not mk1s.....sniff. I just ordered the seals from my uncle and he said it'll probably last a while before the seal gets a hole in it again so I'll send a few of 'em. Maybe I'll just to grind the shafts anyways, they probably only hit the seal once in a while so a little grinding might fix it.
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#7
by
zukgod1
on 30 Jul, 2008 13:28
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That's true, may only take 1/16" maybe 1/8" max?
Either would be easy.
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#8
by
rabbitman
on 30 Jul, 2008 19:37
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Ok, so I ground almost an 1/8th inch off the driveshaft and maybe a 1/16th off the output shaft, put the tranny back in (did the clutch)and the end of the driveshaft misses the output shaft by nearly an inch with the car sitting on the wheels. Maybe if I hit a bump when driving the driveshaft will get a bit closer. I got new seals coming so I'll see what happens.
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#9
by
Dakotakid
on 30 Jul, 2008 21:31
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I wonder if that unit-body has sustained a some trauma (lateral force) over the years. Or if the control arm could have taken a blow....like slide it sideways on ice and tap a curb.
Ya, I know....impossible questions to answer. Wow, when I think about some things I have done in winter driving conditions with several of these cars......gulp!!! For instance, I overcooked a corner on a dirt road, spent a couple of hundred feet finding my way back onto the road surface (at speed), and quickly became aware that the control arm had hidden rust problems. It didn't fully break at the seam....but, it did open up and s-t-r-e-t-c-h that metal.
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#10
by
rabbitman
on 11 Sep, 2008 10:15
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Well I finally got the parts yesterday....stubborn shipping guy I guess. Put it back together w/ new control arms. It feels great to drive the ol' rabbit again. Now I gotta put the VNT on, 2.25" exhaust, put new IP bushings in, blablabla. Later though.