Author Topic: Gov mod failure (Read 6375 times)

Tintin · « **Reply #15 on:** July 25, 2008, 12:35:08 pm »

Quote from: "MouseGTD"

i had a problem with my car cutting out between 3.5-4k rpm, it turned out to be a loose wire on the fuel pump. maybe it could just be some thing simple like this? i checked/replaced or cleaned most of the fuel system from the pump back to the tank with no difference before i found the loose wire :roll:

+ 1

I often saw a loose wire or wrong adjusted wire.

gigaz2 · « **Reply #16 on:** July 25, 2008, 01:41:32 pm »

that should be the electric advance on a ECO pump no?

zukgod1 · « **Reply #17 on:** July 25, 2008, 03:13:40 pm »

No pictures of the spring assy guys, I didn't think of it when it was apart and don't feel like taking the pump apart to get a pic

This pump is an NA alt compensated pump that I converted to TD, It has the little tube from the advance cover going to the top of the pump between the pressure regulator and the inlet. There is a electrical connection and plunger assy on the cover that look just like the plunger used to shut it down and it has keyed power going to it.

What would happen if I remove the plunger and take the guts out so the fuel will travel through there all the time?
I mean if it's suppose to just open the circuit to allow the piston to move than why not just leave that port open all the time?

jimfoo · « **Reply #18 on:** July 25, 2008, 03:21:09 pm »

That just has to do with advance. Not sure which way it works, but removing the plunger may keep you from having advance. Though since it should be energized, I guess removing the plunger would be like having it energized all the time. Can't hurt anything...

gigaz2 · « **Reply #19 on:** July 25, 2008, 03:27:33 pm »

it would be simpler to energize it permanently and go for a drive to test.

zukgod1 · « **Reply #20 on:** July 25, 2008, 03:38:26 pm »

Quote from: "gigaz2"

it would be simpler to energize it permanently and go for a drive to test.

It already is, it has 12v going to it as soon as the key is on.

I don't see it creating or solving my problem however.

zukgod1 · « **Reply #21 on:** July 25, 2008, 04:45:39 pm »

Ok I removed the solenoid and compared it to a regular fuel cut off solenoid and it reacts backwards to the cut off one.
When energized it pushed the plunger out causing it to block the passage when 12v is removed the passage is open.

I had another fuel cut off solenoid so I removed the plunger and installed it and went for a drive. No difference. still goes to 3800 and your done.

So have to look at something else I guess.

zukgod1 · « **Reply #22 on:** July 26, 2008, 12:01:55 am »

Just bumpin this up for ideas.[/i]

VW_Commuter · « **Reply #23 on:** July 26, 2008, 12:09:19 am »

Zuk, what mods have you done to your injection pump?

zukgod1 · « **Reply #24 on:** July 26, 2008, 12:14:04 am »

Quote from: "VW_Commuter"

Zuk, what mods have you done to your injection pump?

AAZ cam disk.
10mm pump
Clearanced the timing cover and removed the larger washers replaced with thin ones.
Aggressive slope on the fuel pin.

That's it.

zukgod1 · « **Reply #25 on:** July 26, 2008, 02:45:54 am »

So I cant sleep now thinking about this.

The only thing I can think of that MAY have something to do with this is the shaft the governor rides on.
Maybe I have it screwed in to far or not far enough?

It frustrates me that I cant figure this out. I mean this damn thing just isn't that complicated that I shouldn't be able to just go fix it..

Damn! If I just wasn't so broke I would just ship one of my extra pumps to Canada and be done with it!!

Tintin · « **Reply #26 on:** July 26, 2008, 09:56:37 am »

It's not the governor shaft.

I do not see exactly what occur at 3800rpm, there are 3 possible thing to govern a pump, first: the governor assembly, 2: too much softer return spring on the head (came plate float) the 1.6D/TD one do not work with several head with grooved seat for the spring holder, 3: not enough timing past 3500 and up.

Maybee a part of this 3 thing combined.

zukgod1 · « **Reply #27 on:** July 26, 2008, 11:46:00 am »

Quote from: "Tintin"

2: too much softer return spring on the head (came plate float) the 1.6D/TD one do not work with several head with grooved seat for the spring holder,

Ah ha!!!

I'll bet thats what it is right there! Cam float. I'll have to pull the damn pump again but I'm betting I can replace those springs and that will take care of my problem.
I will have to report back with the results in a week or two.

zukgod1 · « **Reply #28 on:** July 30, 2008, 06:22:11 pm »

So I think to test this I'm going to install a 9mm pump in place of the 10mm pump and see what happens.

The 10mm has recesses where the springs sit and the 9mm doesn't.

If that solves the problem I think I'll just build another pump put the 10mm on it and get the correct springs.

Then I can sell the 9mm pump..

zukgod1 · « **Reply #29 on:** August 04, 2008, 12:06:48 am »

So an update is in order.

I removed the pump this weekend (man I'm getting good at this) and I proceeded to tear it apart.

I removed the timing cover and piston, modded it so it can get an ass load more travel now, installed a 9mm pump in place of the 10mm pump and just checked everything out.
Re installed and took it for a drive. I was kinda bummed to be honest, didn't get moving worth a poo and couldn't get more than 15 psi. Realized I had the fuel pin on the damn near straight up and down part so I install one I had made with a very drastic slope and went for another drive and the smile on my face returned. 30 psi and smooth fuel delivery all the way through. I can now hit 5000 rpm if I choose.

So I suspect as we all determined earlier that I was experiencing cam float.
I also suspect if I had replaced the return springs with the taller springs I would have never had this problem with the 10mm pump but hey, it's all in the name of experimentation..