banjo bolts???

[Hammy]

Hey everyone;

 Stupid me, I swapped out my IP, for a non-leaking one, until I get my seal kit. I can't remember which banjo bolt goes where? I put the larger (inside diameter) bolt with the holes in the side, on the feed line, and the smaller (inside diameter) bolt on the return.

 Secondly, the pump I installed from an old engine I used to run, used to be a real SOB to get the air out of the lines. Everything was great last night,  no air, this morning cranky to start, and air bubbles again. I think it has to be sucking air somewhere, and probably at the banjo fittings I would think? The engine started and ran perfectly on the old pump?

Any ideas?

[jimfoo]

The bolt with the screen inside and very small hole in the side is the out bolt. Put it on the in fitting and I imagine the lift pump would create a lot of suction, possibly pulling air past the seals.

[Hammy]

So, just to understand you correctly, the small diameter (hole) banjo bolt, should be on the feed side (suction from filter, tank). The large banjo bolt goes on the return. If that is the case then I have them reversed. Correct?

[jtanguay]

did you use copper washers on the banjo bolts?

[Hammy]

Yes I did use copper washers on the bolts. They were the old ones though, I will try cracking the lines and reseal. I have never really had problems with them before though.

[zukgod1]

So, just to understand you correctly, the small diameter (hole) banjo bolt, should be on the feed side (suction from filter, tank). The large banjo bolt goes on the return. If that is the case then I have them reversed. Correct?

The one with the smaller hole (and screen in it) goes in the return on the back of the pump (TD) top if non TD, the larger one goes to the supply.
As jimfoo mentioned reversing them may case it to suck air past the seals.

I don't know if you would ever get it to run using the return in the supply.
That tiny hole would be very restrictive.

[Hammy]

I had it the right way, but to answer, yes it will run with them reversed as I tried it, but barely, lol!! I also found my leak, as the return plastic line was rubbing on the clamp for the injection lines. So, all seems well now. I will report back.

[Hammy]

Oh, thanks for the help, and input everyone! :wink:

[jtanguay]

to avoid issues in the future, you may also want to change some of the fuel lines while you're at it.  about 3 years after purchasing my car i had to do that, and it was right during winter pretty cold out!!!  :lol: could have saved myself lots of headaches by just doing it during the summer.

[Hammy]

Where is the best place to buy lines?

Thanks

[jimfoo]

I just used regular fuel line from the local auto pars store. If you plan on running lots of bio, you might want to look for viton lines though.

[jtanguay]

yea the lines start to crack on the insides... you won't notice it until its too late (and she won't start)  a small lift pump will keep you going though.  i bought one of those 4-7 psi facet pumps.  they work excellent!  very quiet, low amp draw, and best of all, they make quick work of any air in the system.  fuel filter changes are much easier too  :wink:

[fatmobile]

I think you will be better off with clear fuel lines,.. big help when it comes to troubleshooting.
 1/4" ID vinyl or the pretty blue urethane tubing that can be found at motorcycle shops is biodiesel safe.

[zukgod1]

or the pretty blue urethane tubing that can be found at motorcycle shops is biodiesel safe.

I just installed some of that line.

Looks nice also, wish I could get is small enough for the return lines on the injectors.

[dillenger1]

two stroke line works at the haedware store