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#15
by
Deadeye
on 26 May, 2005 16:22
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That's the way to do it. Veeman.
It'll run a while like that.
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#16
by
toomanycars
on 26 May, 2005 16:42
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I didn't need the hose clamps. Perhaps my metric irrigation pipe Ts were just the right size(?) Still no runaway, so it must be OK for now.
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#17
by
veeman
on 27 May, 2005 08:12
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To tell you the truth, I'm not sure I need those clamps either. The copper tee's with the bead on the ends is pretty close to the ID of the 5/8" heater hose I needed.
As it's not a high pressure application, I'd imagine I could have just left them off; however, it's cheap insurance in that high-vibration environment.
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#18
by
moshaholic2
on 28 May, 2005 18:22
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what exactly is "blow by", I was reading this thread, and noticed the mention of excessive white smoke (a problem I have on a mystery mile rabbit).
I understand that runaway is caused by oil driping back into the intake and being burned as extra fuel...
So, I wondered if this was the cause of my smoke.... I popped off the hose on top of the intake, and lots of exhaust smoke came out of the hose (comming from the cam cover). Now how the hell could it be that smokey under them cam cover?
Veeman, did your set up stop the excessive smoking also?
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#19
by
Deadeye
on 28 May, 2005 20:03
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Blowby is compression that gets past your rings and pistons.
THis blowby is hot and can vaporize the oil in your crankcase and or cylinder walls, and this vaporized oil deposits in the intake.
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#20
by
jtanguay
on 29 May, 2005 07:20
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so that means that an engine with blowby has a lower lifespan because less oil lubricating the cylinder walls??
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#21
by
Deadeye
on 29 May, 2005 16:54
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It has the same oil on the cylinder walls, it's just getting cooked with exhaust gasses.
The blowby gets worse and worse.
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#22
by
toomanycars
on 02 Jun, 2005 15:57
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So, I wondered if this was the cause of my smoke.... I popped off the hose on top of the intake, and lots of exhaust smoke came out of the hose (comming from the cam cover). Now how the hell could it be that smokey under them cam cover?
Veeman, did your set up stop the excessive smoking also?
Question was for Veeman...But my diesel still smokes under full throttle going uphill even with the modification. Blowby smoke stills goes into the air intake and then down the exhaust. I'll put up with it until it gets embarassing!
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#23
by
veeman
on 02 Jun, 2005 16:18
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>>Veeman, did your set up stop the excessive smoking also?
Well, the only smoking I saw with my 1.5 was the smoke that poured out like a crop fogger when the runaway occurred.
After I did the mod, I only see a touch of bluish-white smoke on cold start up and a puff of black smoke on warm start up. I think that's probably normal for my engine with its miles.
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#24
by
fspGTD
on 15 Jun, 2005 12:51
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Hey guys -
Here is how the MANN Provent install worked itself out on dad's VNT 1.6l Rabbit:
Not sure if there is room in that location in other applications such as non-turbo diesels or 1.6lTDs, but the location just seemed perfect for this engine bay with the low-mounted VNT turbo and all the room in that area. The top of the provent and its filter can be removed in place too!
To mount it, I bolted a strip of aluminum stock to custom-fabricated square nuts I made and put behind some rectangular brackets that were hanging out on the firewall, accomplished without any permanent drilling of the body's sheetmetal. The provent then bolts to the aluminum strip. For the hose, I cut the stock naturally aspirated crank vent breather hose, and found that it fit perfectly and even gave a dropped section which helps it to flex with engine movements. To adapt the crankcase vent hose to the provent inlet nipple, I shoved an appropriate copper plumbing adapter fitting into the provent's inlet nipple and clamped the 3/4" ID crankcase breather hose section to it.
I've only driven it once with the provent so far, and this engine actually seems to put out very little oil vapors in it's blowby, but so far so good. It is nice to have a solution that is guaranteed not to recycle crankcase oils back into the boost tubes and pretty clean as well.
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#25
by
river_clan
on 22 Jul, 2005 00:50
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I have a 1.6td in an 86 suzuki samurai. It has a 1 notch head gasket, and hits 10lbs of boost.
I was plagued with oil leaks. Couldn't get them to stop after replacing gaskets many times.
We vented the crankcase, but tee'd it into the valve cover oil seperator line, and ran it before the turbo.
It sucked 1-1/2 quarts of oil out of it on 100 mile drive!
So after lots of head scratching, and realizing I don't want any of this blowby to go into the intake... I found this handy air/oil seperator from Summit. They use it for dry sump oil systems for race cars. It was cheap too. $29!
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=air+oil+seperator&x=0&y=0&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&searchinresults=false&N=0&target=egnsearch.asp
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#26
by
toomanycars
on 22 Jul, 2005 16:07
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I assume the little red thing at the bottom is a drain tap for the oil? Could you put a one-way valve on this and plumb it back to the sump? Where do you buy these things?
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#27
by
Bruce
on 23 Jul, 2005 17:42
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Do the crank case vapors come out the filter on top of that tank and how much oil do you have to drain out of that tank.I would think the valve cover vent and the crank case vent that veeman is talking about would be at the same pressure so there is no actual air flow between the two vents.
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#28
by
toomanycars
on 27 Jul, 2005 19:20
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I assume the little red thing at the bottom is a drain tap for the oil? Could you put a one-way valve on this and plumb it back to the sump? Where do you buy these things?
Repeat, "Where do you buy these things?" (C'mon...Don't be coy!)
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#29
by
Deadeye
on 27 Jul, 2005 20:55
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