A1 brake bolt on?

[sethyboy85]

what can I pull from a JY and will bolt on no adapter plates or anything needed?

I have 15" wheels up front which when equipped on a dodge like they are sappossed to be will clear the big 11" brakes that they put on shelby daytona's IROC R/T daytonas and Spirit R/T's as well as any other car so I don't think clearance will be an issue for me.

say audi coupe GT? would they work?

[racer_x]

what can I pull from a JY and will bolt on no adapter plates or anything needed?

I have 15" wheels up front which when equipped on a dodge like they are sappossed to be will clear the big 11" brakes that they put on shelby daytona's IROC R/T daytonas and Spirit R/T's as well as any other car so I don't think clearance will be an issue for me.

say audi coupe GT? would they work?

Is this for a diesel? Diesels are slow enough with 13" wheels. Diesels with 15" wheels are even slower (a lot slower). Diesels with 15" wheels and big brake rotors will be slower than that.

Check out the other brake thread here http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1433&start=15. I cover a lot of options there.

If you want to be less slow, throw your wheels and tires on the scale. If the wheel with the tire mounted and inflated weighs over 35 pounds, put those wheels on eBay or sell them to someone else. If they weigh over 30 pounds, but less than 35 pounds, put them on a gas powered A1 car, but not on an A1 diesel.

As for brakes, the stock 9.4" vented rotors and 180mmx30mm rear drums are excellent for any A1 car up to 2400 pounds or so that never exceeds 125mph. With proper pad selection, you can outright race with those brakes. I'm pretty sure that describes every A1 diesel or A1 turbodiesel I've ever seen.

If you want bigger that bolt right up, get some 10.1" fronts from a 16V Scirocco and the 200mmx40mm rear drums from a Quantum Wagon or VW Fox Wagon. But those will be slower, and you'll have to have at least 14" wheels to clear the 10.1" fronts.

[sethyboy85]

what can I pull from a JY and will bolt on no adapter plates or anything needed?

I have 15" wheels up front which when equipped on a dodge like they are sappossed to be will clear the big 11" brakes that they put on shelby daytona's IROC R/T daytonas and Spirit R/T's as well as any other car so I don't think clearance will be an issue for me.

say audi coupe GT? would they work?

Is this for a diesel? Diesels are slow enough with 13" wheels. Diesels with 15" wheels are even slower (a lot slower). Diesels with 15" wheels and big brake rotors will be slower than that.

Check out the other brake thread here http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1433&start=15. I cover a lot of options there.

If you want to be less slow, throw your wheels and tires on the scale. If the wheel with the tire mounted and inflated weighs over 35 pounds, put those wheels on eBay or sell them to someone else. If they weigh over 30 pounds, but less than 35 pounds, put them on a gas powered A1 car, but not on an A1 diesel.

As for brakes, the stock 9.4" vented rotors and 180mmx30mm rear drums are excellent for any A1 car up to 2400 pounds or so that never exceeds 125mph. With proper pad selection, you can outright race with those brakes. I'm pretty sure that describes every A1 diesel or A1 turbodiesel I've ever seen.

If you want bigger that bolt right up, get some 10.1" fronts from a 16V Scirocco and the 200mmx40mm rear drums from a Quantum Wagon or VW Fox Wagon. But those will be slower, and you'll have to have at least 14" wheels to clear the 10.1" fronts.

and how about if my car weighs, 2450 pounds I rip out the stereo??? what the flip??
dude I asked what I could put on that was bigger because I do alot of mountain driving and need the braking power going down hills.

also a hint, read my sig it tells you what I have.

oooh slower by .0001mph becausen now I have 10 pounds of mass instead of 8, my god I am more worried about MY safety and other people than greatest fuel economy or speed.

fyi you come off alittle prickesh, don't take that the wrong way.
thanks for the input but I know about rotating mass

[sethyboy85]

My diesel is not my race car, another look at the sig would of shown you I have other cars to cover that part, my jetta is my 40+ mpg alternative fuel drive to work 100 miles round trip everyday piece of junk nobody looks at cause its rusty and dirty and OLD who would steal it? I don't know that is half of the point.,

[Justin]

Not to jump in the middle or anything but I dont think that racer_x meant to be mean, and he did answer your question as best as he could, if you actually look at his telling you
racer_x

If you want bigger that bolt right up, get some 10.1" fronts from a 16V Scirocco and the 200mmx40mm rear drums from a Quantum Wagon or VW Fox Wagon. But those will be slower, and you'll have to have at least 14" wheels to clear the 10.1" fronts.

so if you are worried about safety and not speed then you wouldnt be upset about the comment of "if you want to be slower" since you could just brush it off

sethyboy85

also a hint, read my sig it tells you what I have.

look at your signature it doesnt say that you have a VW diesel Jetta like your last comment

what I am getting at is lets just be civil and not turn this into one big cat fight, this is a very nice, respected and CLEAN forum

LETS KEEP IT THAT WAY
have a nice day
Justin[/quote]

[racer_x]

and how about if my car weighs, 2450 pounds I rip out the stereo??? what the flip??

If your car weighs 2450 pounds and regularly goes 100mph, you'll want to look at something better than the solid 9.4" front rotors. If your car weighs 2450 pounds and regularly goes 125mph, then the 9.4" vented fronts will be marginal and you might want to upgrade.

But thermal loads are related to kinetic energy, which is 1/2 * mass * velocity * velocity. So if you have the 9.4" vented fronts, and your car weighs 2450 pounds, the practical top speed for best performance is slighly lower (maybe ~123mph). Even at 2750 pounds, those brakes are probably good for 115mph. But that's probably not an issue for a 1984 diesel Jetta.

dude I asked what I could put on that was bigger because I do alot of mountain driving and need the braking power going down hills.

Use the gears for long grades. Even the biggest brakes will overheat if you ride the brake pedal down a long grade. Brakes are for slowing down, not for holding speed on a downgrade. The diesels are really good at holding speed with gearing due to the high compression.

also a hint, read my sig it tells you what I have.

I only noticed 3 Chrysler products in your sig. I missed the 1984 Jetta diesel that you parked in the back of the minivan.

oooh slower by .0001mph becausen now I have 10 pounds of mass instead of 8, my god I am more worried about MY safety and other people than greatest fuel economy or speed.

Most people with VW diesels, especially the normally asthmatic 1.6 diesels, care about the cars ability to accelerate to highway speeds. Heavier wheels, tires and brakes will add seconds to your zero to 60mph times. On my 1984 Jetta diesel, 14" wheels and tires that weighed 36 pounds per corner added a half second to my zero to 60mph time compared to the stock steel wheels with some cheap, heavy 175/70R13 tires on them. And I picked up another quarter second swapping on some light weight alloy wheels and lighter tires. If you are looking at 15" Dodge Daytona wheels and 10.1' front brakes, expect to be a second or more slower from zero to 60mph.

Also, you mention fuel mileage. Heavier wheels and tires will hurt fuel economy. Those 36 pound 14" wheels and tires got about 1.8mpg less than the light weight 13" wheels and tires in mixed highway/rural small town driving. It will depend some on the weight of your wheels and tires, but I think you can expect two mpg or more penalty from the 15" wheels.  

And if mountain driving means twisty, bumpy, poorly maintained rural secondary roads, then handling might also be an issue for you. These cars really like light weight wheels and tires, especially on the back. They get really sure footed and handle excellent with wheels/tires that weigh 30 pounds per corner or less (on stock-ish springs). 40 pound wheels don't stay on the ground over bumps because the weak rear springs can't control the extra weight, so the car feels loose and disconnected from the road with heavy wheels and tires. Stiffer springs help some, but ride quality suffers with the stiffer springs (and with the shorter sidewalls with larger wheels).

fyi you come off alittle prickesh, don't take that the wrong way.
thanks for the input but I know about rotating mass

Perhaps I get a bit frustrated answering the same questions over and over. Sorry if that annoys you.

[greggearhead]

what can I pull from a JY and will bolt on no adapter plates or anything needed?

I have 15" wheels up front which when equipped on a dodge like they are sappossed to be will clear the big 11" brakes that they put on shelby daytona's IROC R/T daytonas and Spirit R/T's as well as any other car so I don't think clearance will be an issue for me.

say audi coupe GT? would they work?

The 10.1" rotors and calipers from a Scirocco 16V or Quantum Syncro will work fine.  Likewise, an Audi 4000 Quattro has calipers for the 10.1" brakes, but the rotors have a  4x108 bolt pattern.  

These brakes on the front of an A1 are great - I have run lots of brake setups on lots of cars, and I love these with 200mm drums on the rear.  

Brakes are not the area to scrimp on in terms of performance, I would rather have more margin of reserve for hauling - mountain passes, track days, etc etc.

[greggearhead]

Oh yeah - you can use Corrado G60 11" rotors, and calipers, but you need to buy adapters to make them work and that was verboten in your first post.

[tSoG-84bit]

I'm afraid I don't know if this is an answer you want to hear, but if you need bigger brakes for downgrades, why not do what the truckers do? When I took my commercial driver's license test I was required to simulate a long down grade (the only hill I went over the whole test was an over pass)

If you are unfamiliar with the idea of downgrade braking I can explain. First decelerate and downshift into the proper gear. brake steadily to ~5mph LESS than your desired speed, then let off the brake until ~5mph above your desired speed. repeat as needed.

I've seen small vehicles towing at maximum capacity (sometimes above capacity) safely take long, steep downgrades, just to be met at the bottom by a vehicle more within its weight limits and the foul smell of ruined brakes.

larger wheels make a HUGE difference, at least in my experience. My first winter as a driver was spent in a 92 toyota 4x4 pickup, big studded snowtires and larger wheels. the next spring I brought my summer wheels to the shop to get new tires put on and did my first ever burnout leaving the parking lot on the new summer tires. It was unintentional, lots of loose dirt on the driveway, and it caught me by surprise. with the snow tires I had to downshift to pass on the four lanes, new tires I just gave it some throttle. that is only in my experience, but the difference was noticed because I showed up with huge studded tires and left with normal sized all seasons

tSoG

[RabbitJockey]

16v scirocco brakes on the front (10.1) and mk3 drum brakes on the back, the best setup imo, direct bolt on, you can also do the corrado 11" brakes which require adapters, but i see them for sale on vwvortex all the time