Author Topic: T-ing into Coolant circulation (Read 4721 times)

vegfuel · « **on:** May 27, 2008, 11:10:29 am »

So I just bought a kit from Greasecar.com and I am planning on installling it in a couple of weeks (diesel almost $5/gal here). I haven't read the manual yet (haven't seen the kit yet) but I have read enough on the internet to know that you use the hot coolant to head the veggie oil. You do this by connecting to big red coolant hoses that the kit comes with to you cars coolant system.

My question: Which coolant hose would you tap into to to still ensure good pressure to go to the secondary tank heat exchanger and cool the engine? I see several coolant hoses.

the caveman · « **Reply #1 on:** May 27, 2008, 11:48:26 am »

The line that comes off the side of the head feeds your heat exchangers and return it to the other line that comes from the heater . BTW be careful that you always use a filter with a water trap. I have seen 2 greasecar systems that didn't have one. I would also use a Vegetherm from Plantdrive to make sure tha VO is really at the right temp. Remember diesels don't always heat up enough to get the VO to have a proper combustion. check out http://www.ecoauto.ca/

zukgod1 · « **Reply #2 on:** May 27, 2008, 12:00:40 pm »

Quote from: "vegfuel"

So I just bought a kit from Greasecar.com and I am planning on installling it in a couple of weeks (diesel almost $5/gal here). I haven't read the manual yet (haven't seen the kit yet) but I have read enough on the internet to know that you use the hot coolant to head the veggie oil. You do this by connecting to big red coolant hoses that the kit comes with to you cars coolant system.

My question: Which coolant hose would you tap into to to still ensure good pressure to go to the secondary tank heat exchanger and cool the engine? I see several coolant hoses.

I've been looking hard at these kits as well.
Frybird.com makes a nice kit as well, at tad more spendy but has the extra heater in the engine compartment.

I'll be really interested to hear how it does for you.

vegfuel · « **Reply #3 on:** May 27, 2008, 03:31:58 pm »

It gets really hot where I live in the summer time. I will be driving distances of 100 miles one way so I might use a tank of diesel in a summer. I also bought a temp guage to run back to the tank. With outside temps of over 100F the oil should be hot enough. My only concern is the water in the oil. I don't think the kit filter comes with a water separator.

the caveman · « **Reply #4 on:** May 27, 2008, 05:14:42 pm »

If you are going to be on the highway all the time it should be okay. If you're going to use a temp gauge then get the fuel temp rather than coolant . i have 3 customers who had Greasecar and 1 with a Frybrid kit and brought them to me to improve them. Their systems will work but there are systems out there that work better. I also suggest using a lift/ supply pump. Mr gasket makes a diesel specific one that works great, low current draw so no extra relay. Out of all my customers i have at least 7 who had different kits and or shops install systems on their vehicles and then had to have them revamped, fixed or improved for poor running, IP's failing because there wasn't a water seperator or taking too long before they could be switched over to VO. Frybrid's tank heat exchanger is well made but it's gigantic. Get a Arctic Fox Hotfox instead, it's much smaller [easier to install] and it has a 5 year/ 600,000 mi warranty !

vegfuel · « **Reply #5 on:** May 27, 2008, 10:49:44 pm »

Quote from: "the caveman"

If you are going to be on the highway all the time it should be okay. If you're going to use a temp gauge then get the fuel temp rather than coolant . i have 3 customers who had Greasecar and 1 with a Frybrid kit and brought them to me to improve them. Their systems will work but there are systems out there that work better. I also suggest using a lift/ supply pump. Mr gasket makes a diesel specific one that works great, low current draw so no extra relay. Out of all my customers i have at least 7 who had different kits and or shops install systems on their vehicles and then had to have them revamped, fixed or improved for poor running, IP's failing because there wasn't a water seperator or taking too long before they could be switched over to VO. Frybrid's tank heat exchanger is well made but it's gigantic. Get a Arctic Fox Hotfox instead, it's much smaller [easier to install] and it has a 5 year/ 600,000 mi warranty !

Yes I think I will be okay as long as I have a good oil source and filter and dewater well. I plan on buying about 5-6 gallons of new cooking oil for the first run just to make sure the system runs well.

jtanguay · « **Reply #6 on:** May 28, 2008, 10:37:39 am »

i think it would be a good idea to get a 120 amp alt and just use electric heat to heat the veggie for faster switchovers. who cares about power draw from the alt when you're running on free fuel? might need a bigger battery too...

one setup that would be cool is to have a small container up front with a heater element inside. might take about 1-2 minutes to get it up to temp + then use vacuum to pull fuel from your main tank when it gets low.

the caveman · « **Reply #7 on:** May 28, 2008, 11:09:43 am »

It's nice to be able to switch over to VO as soon as the motor is started ,but the problem is that you don't want to run on VO when the motor is cold. You will get grazing on the cylinder walls and way more chance of injector coking. You really have to wait till it's warm at least. Standard practice is to switch over when the coolant hits 60 C [i guess about 130 F ] As far as using all electrics to heat, why bother when there is all that waste heat available.

fatmobile · « **Reply #8 on:** May 30, 2008, 11:12:41 pm »

With a looped system you won't be running on vegy when you switch.
You'll be running on 90% diesel until more vegy gets pulled into the loop.
I switch to vegy before I turn the key during the summer.
All the diesel from the pump goes into the loop and mixes with the small amount of vegy,... in the beginning it's drawing from the vegy tank but runs an a vegy/diesel mix that doesn't need heated.

Where do you source the coolant for the vegy system?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3835947
7th picture down
coolant flange above the oil filter flange.

See the coolant flange with the extra 5/8" port?

I think there's a www at the bottom of all my posts. Click on it.

jtanguay · « **Reply #9 on:** May 30, 2008, 11:45:20 pm »

Quote from: "the caveman"

It's nice to be able to switch over to VO as soon as the motor is started ,but the problem is that you don't want to run on VO when the motor is cold. You will get grazing on the cylinder walls and way more chance of injector coking. You really have to wait till it's warm at least. Standard practice is to switch over when the coolant hits 60 C [i guess about 130 F ] As far as using all electrics to heat, why bother when there is all that waste heat available.

the waste heat is only available once the car is warmed up, and some TDI's have a hard time maintaining the heat when it is very cold out.

i think having a larger alternator & battery + using some sort of method of heating the coolant is a good idea. the faster you can switch over to veg the better, as it is practically 'free' fuel.