A few months ago I replaced my head gasket and had my cylinder head completely gone through by a machine shop. The rebuild went fine until a few days ago I noticed some coolant seeping out of the head gasket.
I went back and re-torqued the head bolts and everything seemed fine. Yesterday I was in downtown Seattle when I looked down and noticed I was overheating. Coolant was leaking out of the head gasket in the middle - left side.
I brought the vehicle home and again went through the torque procedure. when I got to bolt number 7 (lower left corner) I found the bolt unable to become snug. It stats off fine going in but once it gets down to where you would expect it tighten down, it starts to spin. Since it was so loose, I removed the bolt and can see metal showing on the last few threads.
Am I "screwed"? Does the head need to be pulled to have new threads cut into it? I thought about trying another bolt, but I don't want to loosen up the gasket anymore.
This rebuild has been a paint in the butt, however very educational.
Bellow are pics of the bolt:
I've done them before when the threads have been knacked in th block.
One might be able to use a Heli-Coil in the block to repair the threds.
One might be able to use a Heli-Coil in the block to repair the threads.
Looks like a 11mm bolt from a 1.5.
Those things have pittyful engaugement length in the block. It just amazes me that they don't all strip.
Head Studs
They go allot deeper.
There is probably pleanty of usable threads left in the block that the studs can fully engauge and hold the head better.
Go with Raveware, or ARP.
Raceware studs in a 1.5:
I purchased the pickup last year and don't know too much about it. It is a 1.6.
I have been told they are 11mm bolts and that some of the early 1981s used these rather than the stronger 12mm bolts.
I have heard that head studs go in finger tight into the block and since my problem with this bolt only begins just before it is about to grab, I am thinking there is plenty of threads for studs to settle.
My research over the internet shows that I can't find any specific head stud kit for the 11mm head/block. Has anyone used them before?
http://www.raceware-fasteners.com/Call the number on that web and they will know exactly what you need.
Did it my self a year ago, as evidenced by the studs in the photo. They are 11mm from Raceware in my on-going 1.5TD project.
I think the ARP Gasser ones are cheaper....
I think the ARP Gasser ones are cheaper....
most definitely. the raceware ones come with a nice anti friction coating though :roll: :lol:
I called ARP and the tech wasn't aware of anything for the 11mm block. He wanted me measure my headbolt (which happens to be 11mm x 1.5 x 97mm) and call him back. He said he would then check his database to see if he has anything for me or else he would transfer me to their custom shop (which it doesn't sound like I need to have anything custom made).
So which VW gas engine studs will work for me? Their catalog shows two 1.8 configurations, one with 8v and the other with 16v.
I assume I am after the 1.8 8V kit?
I will also call raceware to get a quote.
I called ARP and the tech wasn't aware of anything for the 11mm block. He wanted me measure my headbolt (which happens to be 11mm x 1.5 x 97mm) and call him back. He said he would then check his database to see if he has anything for me or else he would transfer me to their custom shop (which it doesn't sound like I need to have anything custom made).
So which VW gas engine studs will work for me? Their catalog shows two 1.8 configurations, one with 8v and the other with 16v.
I assume I am after the 1.8 8V kit?
I will also call raceware to get a quote.
Get the 1.8 8v gas head stud kit. It's what I'm using on my (lightly) turbo'd 1.5.
This is a good place to get them:
http://headbolts.com/volks.html Probably these:
ARP 1.8 / 2.0L 8 valve head stud set 12 pt nuts with under cut studs 204-4701 $112.00
Or these for a bunch more cash:
ARP 1.8/2.0L 8 valve head stud set 204-4203 $199.00
The VW diesel headstuds/headbolt page is all messed up on that site, so don't let it confuse you.
Thanks fatmobile.
I ended up just grabbing them from Summit Racing. Just about the same price and free shipping that went out today (although there was a $10 handling charge...).
Hopefully I will get these bad boys soon and throw them in without any problems.
Does anyone think I will have any issues with my head warping? I didn't realize I was losing coolant until I looked down at the tach and saw that I was overheating. I hadn't been driving long and the temp gauge wasn't maxed out or anything. Are these aluminum heads likely to warp?