Author Topic: Checklist before motor start (Read 8258 times)

jackbombay · « **on:** April 28, 2005, 04:13:00 pm »

My TD has not run in, well I am not really sure how long. It has all new belts and is timed correctly (on the advanced edge of the spec). I have pulled fuel throught the pump with a mighty vac, fresh motor oil, and all fluids are topped up.

Should I crack the injector lines and crank till the oil pressure light goes out then snug up the injector lines? Do this to get oil throughout the motor before it fires up, or is that unnecessary?

Any other things to do/check before I turn the Key for the first time on my conversion?

TIA

watsongs · « **Reply #1 on:** April 28, 2005, 04:49:13 pm »

You're cracking the injector lines to bleed air out of the pump & injector lines. Sounds like it's all ready to go - I've heard of a couple drops of oil in through the injector holes to make sure the upper cyliners are lubed, but that may be unneccesary -

jackbombay · « **Reply #2 on:** April 28, 2005, 08:02:57 pm »

The pump should be full of fuel, but I was thinking of cracking the lines so it would not start so that motor oil could get to the turbo and all the other moving parts. Sound good?

jtanguay · « **Reply #3 on:** April 28, 2005, 08:10:30 pm »

if you're worried about the turbo at startup, don't. :lol:

it should be fine. Only a few seconds of oil starvation shouldn't do much at all (just think about when the car is left for a week without running, cylinders should be nearly completely drained of any lube and they start pretty good)

srivett · « **Reply #4 on:** April 28, 2005, 08:32:12 pm »

You can disconnect the wire to the fuel solenoid if you don't want it to start. Don't be surprised if it burns a bit of oil or smokes a lot for the first little while.

Steve

Dr. Diesel · « **Reply #5 on:** April 28, 2005, 08:46:58 pm »

haul out the vacuum pump. Put a 6 mm allen socket (or whatever size) on the end of a 6" or longer 3/8" extension and chuck the allen into a drill. fit the square end of the extension over the tip of the oil pump driveshaft and spin it with the drill. for easiest results, put a test light between the battery positive terminal and the upper oil pressure switch to tell when the pressure's up. Let her rip for a minute or two. This'll pump up the lifters and lube everything, including the cylinder walls via the oil squirters.
put it all back together and fire up without worry. If you've had the injection system apart, crack the fittings at the injectors and crank until they start to leak.
good fun

jackbombay · « **Reply #6 on:** April 28, 2005, 09:04:01 pm »

Unfortunatley the 2.0 has a different oil pump set-up, it is driven directly by the crank so it can't spin independent of the motor. This engine is quite similar to the inline 6 in the volvos, my vaccum pump is driven by a belt off the back end of the cam though, unlike the few volvos Diesels I have seen.

VWRacer · « **Reply #7 on:** April 29, 2005, 05:11:19 am »

Jack, have you turned the engine over several revolutions by hand to ensure the valves are missing the pistons (sanity check on your timing)? If you have, just do as a couple guys suggest by cranking with either the fuel solenoid disconnected or the lines cracked. Once you see ANY oil pressure on a gauge (or 10 seconds of cranking), button everything up and fire that beastie! :twisted:

chrissev · « **Reply #8 on:** April 29, 2005, 06:28:34 am »

when you crack open the lines at the injectors you usually just open the one line at cylinder #1. Then crank until the engine kicks, retighten the line, and start her up. Also what kind of oil do you have in the car? You should maybe put some thin synthetic, like say Castrol syntec 5/40 or something like that, so that you get a lot of flow right up front as soon as you crank. You don't want anything too thick that will take a while to build up pressure.

jackbombay · « **Reply #9 on:** April 29, 2005, 08:45:53 am »

I've turned the motor over many revolutions by hand, good to go there.

I've actuall got some 15/40 Delo in there, maybe I'll set the 500 Watt work light under the oil pan to warm it up before I crank it over.

I'll report back this afternoon, I've got a few things to do that slipped my mind, and I seem to have a coolant leak at one of the connections for coolant to the heater core

jackbombay · « **Reply #10 on:** April 29, 2005, 03:16:27 pm »

Well I turned the key, it seems to cough on 2 or 3 of the 5 cylinders, and someone put a bunch of exahaust in my coolant expansion tank before I started cranking appearantly, because after blowing some smoke out the tail pipe there was smoke and a lot of pressure in the coolant expansion tank...

I know, I'm looking for a headgasket now :evil: :x :cry: ...

moosiah · « **Reply #11 on:** April 29, 2005, 06:19:52 pm »

:shock: OUCH!!!!!!!!!!!

jtanguay · « **Reply #12 on:** April 29, 2005, 07:29:25 pm »

you might be eligible for a new headgasket!! fun fun fun

jackbombay · « **Reply #13 on:** April 29, 2005, 07:40:06 pm »

Quote from: "jtanguay"

you might be eligible for a new headgasket!! fun fun fun

I was under the impression that it could only be a bad HG, is there something else that could cause this?

chrissev · « **Reply #14 on:** May 02, 2005, 05:27:30 pm »

Quote from: "jackbombay"

Well I turned the key, it seems to cough on 2 or 3 of the 5 cylinders, and someone put a bunch of exahaust in my coolant expansion tank before I started cranking appearantly, because after blowing some smoke out the tail pipe there was smoke and a lot of pressure in the coolant expansion tank...

I know, I'm looking for a headgasket now :evil: :x :cry: ...

I know I'm missing something here but where exactly did you get this engine from, and why did you think it would run if you put it in your quantum? It seems an awful risk to take, if indeed you took it, to put an engine whose condition is completely unknown, into your car, and then say your prayers and hope it will start.