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#15
by
lord_verminaard
on 21 Apr, 2008 11:37
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Damn, Rob- looks nice.
Any detail of the pins you used to tap into the crank? Are they snug with the holes in the pulley? (aka no "tenth of one degree" play in them?
That serp. pulley is really pretty too.
Brendan
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#16
by
GoKraut
on 21 Apr, 2008 16:43
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Guess I missed them. :oops:
:wink: :lol:
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#17
by
GoKraut
on 26 Apr, 2008 22:59
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Damn, Rob- looks nice.
Any detail of the pins you used to tap into the crank? Are they snug with the holes in the pulley? (aka no "tenth of one degree" play in them?
That serp. pulley is really pretty too.
Brendan
Brendan,
I purchased 5mm hardened dowel pins from Fastenal.com. There is no play. The holes in the crank are 4.95mm (5mm drill bit) and the pins themselves are 5.01mm so a few very light taps of the hammer do get them in. Initially I ordered 5x14mm pins and realized I was being absent minded.
The depth of the cog itself is 19.35mm from where I drilled at the top of the cog to where the face of the crank nose is. So if you go and do the math. I drilled the crank nose by just just over 5mm. I think it was about 5.2mm for each hole. 19.35+5.2 = 24.55mm pins. Just under a standard inch (25.4mm).
So what I decided to do to correct this little difference is order pins that were longer. I'm going to cut them where they need to be cut and then grind them down so they are a snug fit and so the sleeve of the crank bolt presses the pins into the nose. So snug side to side on the nose and pressed down with the crank bolt. Will absolutely have some pictures for you guys when I get that all done. Right now I'm simply waiting on Fastenal's latest shipment (since I had to reorder the right size) :roll:
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#18
by
RabbitJockey
on 22 May, 2008 21:52
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brilliant, i wonder how this would work on the older 22mm hub cranks. my 11mm 1.6 has this issue, i did fix it with a new crank sprocket and stuff, but u am sure this problem will return.
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#19
by
jtanguay
on 23 May, 2008 07:38
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brilliant, i wonder how this would work on the older 22mm hub cranks. my 11mm 1.6 has this issue, i did fix it with a new crank sprocket and stuff, but u am sure this problem will return.
did you put the red loctite on the bolt and give it a good yank?
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#20
by
RabbitJockey
on 23 May, 2008 17:07
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yep, i filled the slightly chewed up part in with jb weld... u know what else can you do haha, aside from what this thread is showing.
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#21
by
jtanguay
on 23 May, 2008 17:09
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yep, i filled the slightly chewed up part in with jb weld... u know what else can you do haha, aside from what this thread is showing.
do you use a/c a lot? i was thinking of having some kind of a/c disengage switch i could use to turn it off when i feel the need for some 'spirited' driving :twisted:
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#22
by
RabbitJockey
on 23 May, 2008 22:20
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yeah my ac i think is what made the problem way worse since it didn't get bad until it started getting warm out haha. ac disengages when u have it turned off.
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#23
by
jtanguay
on 24 May, 2008 02:29
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yeah my ac i think is what made the problem way worse since it didn't get bad until it started getting warm out haha. ac disengages when u have it turned off.
yea but having a button to press instead of moving the selector is much more convenient as that hand is usually shifting gears :twisted:
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#24
by
gigaz2
on 08 Jun, 2008 10:35
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easy to do, the magnetic clutch can be disengaged anytime. you could even fit a switch on the pump to disengage AC when going full throttle.
even my 1993 Renault ECU has that feature
you can also disable the alternator and ICE automatically ( if the battery has enough charge to keep everything else going )
any of these systems must have a delay, so if you blip the throttle the AC doesn't get affected, alternator also sends huge spikes if disconnected when supplying power.
EDIT: sorry for the offtopic, great work on the jig!
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#25
by
gldgti
on 26 Oct, 2009 23:14
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just re-reading all this for myself, and i got to thinking - i reckon using a lighter drive pulley isnt necessarily a good thing -
sure, all the load is driven by the crank sproket and associated pulley - BUT, the total inertia of hte system is what reacts when the loads change. so, say your driving along and switch on the a/c, putting a sudden load on the pulley- the less inertia the pulley has, the more quickly it will want to decelerate. so, in theory, the heavier the drive pulley is, the better, because its in the inertia transfer when turning on a load, there is less associated reduction in rpm....
i think...
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#26
by
lloydbiker
on 06 Jan, 2011 19:54
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Has anyone ever had to replace a crank gear, once it's been pinned?
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#27
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 07 Jan, 2011 13:47
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i believe maybe one user pinned his crank..
all the others went with the more socially accepted method of TDI crank sprocket.
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#28
by
commuter boy
on 23 Jan, 2011 19:20
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Has anyone on this board ever even pinned a crank sprocket?
Moi. My dad's done a couple in Eastern Canada as well.
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#29
by
Rabbit79
on 24 Jan, 2011 15:46
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