Author Topic: Crankshaft oil seal replacement (Clutch end) (Read 2824 times)

GTD. · « **on:** April 06, 2008, 12:36:59 pm »

I removed the clutch from my GTD and there is a bit of oil there

I have bought a new seal
Victor Reinz 81-23708-40
Engine Code: SB
Fitting Position: Transmission side
Inner Diameter: 85 mm
Outer Diameter: 105 mm,
Width: 11 mm, 9 mm,
Radial Shaft Seal Design: A SL,
Swirl Type: Left-hand Twist,
Material: FPM (Fluor-Rubber/Viton

how do I remove the old one and more importantly fit the new one without damaging it?

rallydiesel · « **Reply #1 on:** April 06, 2008, 02:55:50 pm »

Just remove the carrier and the seal comes with it. I assume you drained the pan? Did your seal come with the carrier? If it did, it should also come with a plastic "plug" that is in the seal opening. Clean the crankshaft surface really well, lube it with oil as well as the seal. Position the plastic plug over the crankshaft nose and carefully slide the seal off the plug onto the crankshaft. Make sure the seal hasn't rolled and you're done. If it has rolled, start over again.

GTD. · « **Reply #2 on:** April 06, 2008, 09:38:12 pm »

This one came as just the round seal (part 3 in diagram)

So I need to remove the flange (part 24), I guess I'll have to replace the flange gasket (part 25)

do I need to drop the sump?

If so will I need a new gasket?

If so should I fit a later windage tray?

The engine has been stood for 2 years so I guess all the oil has drained into the sump?

Cheers

fatmobile · « **Reply #3 on:** April 06, 2008, 10:36:11 pm »

Drill a hole in the seal, stick a screw in it and yank the old seal out.
...Oh wait I only answer questions like this in the troubleshooting or general fora, not the IDI performance enhancement fora.... not exactly a performance enhancement.
OK since I already found it:
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Use a sour cream container to get the inner lip to slide over the edge of the crank,... instead of flipping the lip and getting no seal.

rallydiesel · « **Reply #4 on:** April 08, 2008, 11:49:57 am »

Your probably won't have to drop the pan but there are a few bolts that bolt the pan to the seal carrier. You will have to be careful you don't damage the pan gasket. You could probably get away with not draining the pan either. I would also get a new seal carrier gasket. I don't think I'd bother with a windage tray unless you have a high performance engine or autocross, etc. Just make sure the seal lip doesn't get stuck and rolls over.