$500 cyl head and other parts

[steve]

Just wanted to share where I got a NEW cyl head with all new components (cam, valves, etc) all setup.  I got it about a year ago.  The number for Topline www.toplineauto.com is 312-487-1400.  or 1-800-441-1400  They also quoted me prices for the following: pistons $71 ea. and crankshafts $159.  When I got my head they charged me $12 shipping.

One thing I have to mention that I don't know if they changed or not with their cyl heads.  They give you advice about how far the bolt should protrude from the surface of the head.  They tell you to not use the washers on the head bolts you have and use their spacers instead depending on the application.  However, the washers usually don't come off because the threads are forged after the washer is put on.  Therefore you have to leave your washer on and use a thinner spacer of your own.  I found the exact spacer that will work.  From MSC item #04123303.  get 20 of them.  I just looked and couldn't find them on the msc web site so I'll have to do some digging as to what size they are.  www.mscdirect.com

You may also be interested in this other number for Northside Imports for other maintenance parts Some examples of items and prices (if I could find them) I've gotten there are: valve shims $1, brake shoes, rotors $10, head gaskets $11.85, head set $18.95, radiator $135, timing belt $8, oil filter $4, fuel filter $7.38, fast glow relay $16.95, 12mm stretch head bolt $.95, air filter $5, timing belt $8, accessory belts $3.50,  shock absorbers, various bushings, water pump, etc):  1-800-247-2491  they are in Chicago.  When you call ask for Hectar or Scott or, if they are not available, just the next available salesman.  They tend to be hard to get a hold of but it's worth it in my opinion.

[chrissev]

don't you always replace the head bolts anyway?  I always do.

[toomanycars]

I've gotten there are: valve shims $1, brake shoes, rotors $10, head gaskets $11.85, head set $18.95, radiator $135, timing belt $8, oil filter $4, fuel filter $7.38, fast glow relay $16.95, 12mm stretch head bolt $.95, air filter $5, timing belt $8, accessory belts $3.50,  shock absorbers, various bushings, water pump, etc):  

These seem like good prices! Even with postage to Oz they are affordable. Makes you realise just how much profit others are making.

On the subject of head bolts, non-stretch (1.5) bolts are OK to reuse. But what about bearing cap bolts?

[vwmike]

I've gotten there are: valve shims $1, brake shoes, rotors $10, head gaskets $11.85, head set $18.95, radiator $135, timing belt $8, oil filter $4, fuel filter $7.38, fast glow relay $16.95, 12mm stretch head bolt $.95, air filter $5, timing belt $8, accessory belts $3.50,  shock absorbers, various bushings, water pump, etc):  

These seem like good prices! Even with postage to Oz they are affordable. Makes you realise just how much profit others are making.

On the subject of head bolts, non-stretch (1.5) bolts are OK to reuse. But what about bearing cap bolts?

Like, cam bearing cap or main bearing cap? I've always reused both as they aren't stretch bolts.

[toomanycars]

Yeah... Con rod bearings. (Seems we all have different names for everything!!!!)

[steve]

Since MSC no longer carries the washers I quoted, I dug up the info on the size of washers to use on the new head (I don't know where to get them though). The spacers they give you are for use with 12mm bolts and not the 11 mm bolts and are .937 OD, .502 ID, .461" thick. You might compare and notice that these spacers have a smaller OD than a std washer which is why you have to get reduced OD washers that fit.

The Head Bolt Washer on the bolts I had were .181 Thick.

The Topline info says "Check the thread protrusion at the bottom of the head. Protrusion should be arround 1 3/16" (or 1.1875 for you decimal folks)." I went the extra mile for fun and checked the thread depth in the block. My tap (tapered and not a bottoming tap) was able to go in 1.5" inches minimum so there was about 1.4" of threads. The bolt protrusion on my old head measured up to 1.55. Of course the head gasket is in the neighborhood of .04" to .05" (I don't know the exact number) so some of my bolts were basically bottoming out in the block. No wonder I had head gasket sealing problems.

Therefore I kept the washers on my head bolts (because I couldn't remove them), tossed the spacers from topline (which they say to use without the washers that come on the head bolts), and purchased the washers from MSC. The dimensions on the MSC washers are .87 OD, .51 ID, .12 Thick. And they are good quality with a higher degree of flatness and parallelism compared to std hardware store washers. I used 2 on each head bolt. My thread protrusion was then 1.25"... good enough!

[janb]

These seem like good prices! Even with postage to Oz they are affordable. Makes you realise just how much profit others are making.

On the subject of head bolts, non-stretch (1.5) bolts are OK to reuse. But what about bearing cap bolts?

these prices are about the same as Halsey in PDX, which should make OZ shipping easier (whatever I can fit in a 'global priority envel')
 also check these prices   http://www.autohausaz.com/

IIRC - The pre '1.9 diesels have reusable bolts in lower end (including rod caps)  BUT... 1.9's have stretch bolts on rods,  I have a friend who has a very big hole in his 1.9 block to attest to that !

[steve]

Cool.  Thanks for that link.  Nice to have more good places to get parts!

[toomanycars]

I thought they weren't stretch. (Nice to hear from you, Jan...I thought you were in Sprinter Heaven!) I'm about to begin stripping my engine. Plaster's off.....so leg permitting!

[Rat407]

Why would you use spacers when you could just trim the bolt?

[steve]

I don't have the proper tools to trim the bolt.  I do have a little grinder but that would take hours to trim such a large tough bolt.  Maybe it seems worse than it is.  I guess it is only about 1/4".  But, honestly, I just never thought of doing that... :oops:

Actually, until then I never even considered the possibility that they might stick out too far.  You'd think that the OEM would provide plenty of clearance.  But now that you mention it... I guess you could just cut the bolt.