Author Topic: AWY trans blew - what to replace with? (Read 13840 times)

rackley · « **Reply #30 on:** May 13, 2005, 09:57:53 am »

Yeah I did a trans before but it was on a RWD Miata so it was parallel with the car/driveline. Lots of room to maneuver. The hardest part was getting the damn thing to line up with the shaft and go in all the way. I would get it about 80% in but it wasn't *quite* right...so the input shaft was hooked in, but I couldn't drop it to rest because it wasn't quite right...talk about newfound endurance :-)

I'm using an engine hoist for the engine... but I can already see my biggest problem for this thing is probably going to be clearance on the passenger side. I'd like to use a jack if at all possible, but it doesn't sound like it will be.

Bobt250 · « **Reply #31 on:** May 16, 2005, 02:03:27 pm »

I guess you already made your mind up on a replacement but,

I did the swap and used an ACH, bolted right in.

I love it, nice gear spacing and good top end speed.

rackley · « **Reply #32 on:** May 17, 2005, 06:04:41 pm »

Well I got the replacement trans and the caps were jacked up on both drive flanges. One of the circlips is also a bit messed up... can I leave this as-is or should I spring for yet another VW special tool? (ugh)

It looks like the drive flange may have been compressed and the clip just slipped slightly out of position judging by the apparent imprint of where you can see it used to sit. I tried moving it around with a screwdriver and it isn't going anywhere.

Good circlip:

"Bad" one?

Thoughts?

janb · « **Reply #33 on:** May 17, 2005, 08:44:14 pm »

I'd like to see you replace the c-clip (tho I've done this when tranny was on, you don't want to do it out in 'the-bush')

I made a custom tool, but did many with metal bars and the long starter bolts to compress the spring. Threaded rod improves the process considerably.

my custom tool is just a bar with stand-offs that allows you room to work when compressed.

Sorry I don't have pics, as I lent it out and it hasn't come home yet.

janb

lord_verminaard · « **Reply #34 on:** May 17, 2005, 09:44:54 pm »

A cheesy way to do that without a 'special' tool is to use a ratchet-strap and wrap it around both flanges and tighten it down. That usually compresses it enough to pop out the circlip. Oh, and it looks like someone opened up that circlip too much and bent it. You can pop it off, close it up some with some pliers, and carefully snap it back on and you should be good to go.

Brendan
84 Scirocco 8v
00 Camaro L36 M49

srivett · « **Reply #35 on:** May 18, 2005, 02:03:49 am »

The clips come with the new seals and caps you ought to be putting in. You'll also get a chance to inspect the 4 hubs and decide which ones you want to put into the transmission.

Steve

rackley · « **Reply #36 on:** May 18, 2005, 11:08:29 am »

Thanks for the advice everyone. I sprung (har har...ok maybe not) for the tool and a pair of two flange seals/clips/caps kits.

Is there anything in particular I should look for on the flanges besides just general wear and tear when I pick which ones to use?

Thanks,
Ray

rackley · « **Reply #37 on:** May 21, 2005, 08:32:53 pm »

Argh, I just can't catch a break with this darned car can I. As I'm rotating the axle flanges trying to get the flange out of this junkyard trans, I hear the dreaded mechanical grinding/clunking sound coming from it. Sure enough, every gear it has a constant mechanical friction and noise and a regular "catch" that you need some extra oomph to get over. Stick the magnetic picker into the speedo cable hole, and it comes out with some metal shavings that are thin as a flake but about 2-3mm square. Rotate the flange and stir things up and it comes up with more. And more. And more.

Grumble.. Garage is getting full of broken junk VW parts. Hopefully the yard will give me a refund on the thing. Although if they do it's still $100 in shipping down the tubes. Grumble some more...

chrissev · « **Reply #38 on:** May 21, 2005, 11:41:30 pm »

Quote from: "rackley"

Thanks for the advice everyone. I sprung (har har...ok maybe not) for the tool and a pair of two flange seals/clips/caps kits.

Is there anything in particular I should look for on the flanges besides just general wear and tear when I pick which ones to use?

Thanks,
Ray

yeah on the flanges look for a groove worn into the flange where the flange contacts the seal. If your flange has this, you will need to replace it as just replacing the seal will not cure the leaking.

rackley · « **Reply #39 on:** May 27, 2005, 04:04:32 pm »

Hmm. Picked up a 2nd ASF transmission. This one turns super easy, I can turn the flanges in every gear with just 3 fingers on the input shaft. There's only one problem...when I move the gear selector lever into 5th and turn the input shaft, the flanges don't turn at all. It's like it's in neutral. But if I turn the flanges, the input shaft turns.

What gives? Is there any reason why 5th may not engage right (trans off car, almost no fluid in it), or should I pull it apart while it's already off the car and easier to work on?

If there's a possible explanation for this, then I don't want to pull it apart to look at 5th since that means ordering a new gasket, which means waiting until sometime next week, and I'd like to have this badboy bolted up by Monday if possible.

Ray

chrissev · « **Reply #40 on:** May 29, 2005, 09:01:49 am »

Quote from: "rackley"

Hmm. Picked up a 2nd ASF transmission. This one turns super easy, I can turn the flanges in every gear with just 3 fingers on the input shaft. There's only one problem...when I move the gear selector lever into 5th and turn the input shaft, the flanges don't turn at all. It's like it's in neutral. But if I turn the flanges, the input shaft turns.

What gives? Is there any reason why 5th may not engage right (trans off car, almost no fluid in it), or should I pull it apart while it's already off the car and easier to work on?

If there's a possible explanation for this, then I don't want to pull it apart to look at 5th since that means ordering a new gasket, which means waiting until sometime next week, and I'd like to have this badboy bolted up by Monday if possible.

Ray

might just be the difference in gearing. ASF has a 1.03 4th and a 0.75 fifth, so there is a big space. Try turning with a wrench or something to give you more torque and see if it moves

rackley · « **Reply #41 on:** May 29, 2005, 10:03:30 am »

Well the input shaft spins freely, just like neutral, when in 5th. I did some searching on the vortex forums since 020 transes are used in tons of cars from there, and they have a wealth of trans knowledge in the trans forums. Unfortuantely, I turned up this article in the FAQ:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=675090#6040979

chrissev · « **Reply #42 on:** May 30, 2005, 07:25:06 am »

Quote from: "rackley"

Well the input shaft spins freely, just like neutral, when in 5th. I did some searching on the vortex forums since 020 transes are used in tons of cars from there, and they have a wealth of trans knowledge in the trans forums. Unfortuantely, I turned up this article in the FAQ:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=675090#6040979

hmmm, but you say if you turn the flanges in fifth, the imput shaft turns. I still think it's probably just the difference in gearing. You'd have to turn the flanges pretty fast to get the imput shaft to turn in fifth, but if you turn the imput shaft, the flanges should turn really fast. But you'd need a lot of torque on the imput shaft to do that.

oh well, hope your unit isn't broken. that would be a shame. Reminds me to keep checking my fluid as mine is leaking out the gear selector hole.

Just for interest's sake, how do you know it is in fifth? I'm trying to visualize how the linkage works on those things... is fifth when the top selector is pushed all the way in, and the bottom one is pushed to the left?

rackley · « **Reply #43 on:** May 30, 2005, 09:45:53 am »

Well it's officially toast. I took off the 5th gear housing and 5th gear is wobbly loose on the pinion shaft and although it is lightly connected (hence turning the flanges turns the input shaft), if you take a finger and press on 5th gear and turn the flange, the pinion shaft spins in the center of 5th and the gear itself doesn't move execpt for a little bit of wiggling as it rides over the melted/burnt out splines.

I knew it was 5th because if you look at the shifter you have 4 gears "up" and 2 "down". If you play with the selector, you have 4 gears to the "left" or drivers side and 2 to the right. One of the end gears (the furthest forward) makes the big reverse "clunk" when engaging. So the opposite side must be 5th. You can also kind of eyeball the flange speed while turning the input flange by hand and switching the gears to see which gear is which.

Patrick · « **Reply #44 on:** May 30, 2005, 05:24:59 pm »

Pull the end off the first tranny. You might find a fifth that's good enough to swap into that trans.