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#15 by Tintin on 15 Mar, 2008 06:11
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Here a fun pic to show the pin inside a real pump:
Here now a different lengh of the feeler pin (guide pin), the longest allow more fueling on-boost with proper boost pin or proper boost pin grinding.
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#16 by hillfolk'r on 15 Mar, 2008 21:04
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Quote from: "burnt_servo"
the plastic washer acts like a cushion when the pin is driven downwards , i wouldn't recomend removing it .
as you can see my pin isn't being pushed all the way down any way by boost presure , so the next best thing is to grind deeper into the pin where the small pin rides on the fuel pin , allowing more fuel in the range that the small pin rides on the fuel pin .
and yes after your done grinding , it has to be polished smooth .
mines been with no (plastic)washer for years...my pump guy told me its ok to remove it for better pin travel,etc
its not like its hammering itself on the top of the pump casting or somethin -
#17 by Benjamin on 16 Mar, 2008 04:45
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Quote from: "Tintin"
Here a fun pic to show the pin inside a real pump:
Here now a different lengh of the feeler pin (guide pin), the longest allow more fueling on-boost with proper boost pin or proper boost pin grinding.
nice, i was also thinking to build something like that, to adjust the pressure very good, becouse otherwise you cant know when the lda is down at what boost.
this is very very intrested information tintin!
So if you put a longer feeler pin, can the other parts in the VE also support more advance?
Greetz, Benjamin -
#18 by k77aus on 31 Mar, 2008 08:49
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Does anyone have any links / info on tuning my stock uk 1.6GTD Mk2 golf - Here is the spec
SB code engine 80bhp
Intercooler mounted in engine bay on slant
290,000 miles
45-48mpg
0.7 Bar boost pressure
I'm after reliable power increase that can be used every day and still return a decent miles per gallon. ANY ADVICE OR LINKS would be appreciated -
#19 by boxer246 on 02 Apr, 2008 07:09
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#20 by KTZed on 02 Apr, 2008 08:51
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I just got around to turning the boost pin to the steepest ramp in my 1.6TD and I'm glad to say it made quite a big difference. More power overall but more importantly, the turbo spools sooner and faster giving me a usable midrange. I also cut the plastic washer in half to allow more travel and I cant say I noticed a difference. It still doesnt smoke much and the EGT's are under control so theres room for more and I'd still like to get better spool/midrange power. My next mods will be turning the max fuel screw in to up the fuel over the entire range, turning the starwheel down to allow more fuel sooner in relation to boost, and turning the smoke screw up to allow the starting point to be close to stock for better economy.
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#21 by burnt_servo on 02 Apr, 2008 11:43
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right now , with my car , at 18 pounds of boost , and the softest vw boost diaphram spring i could find locally ( it's blue / greenish ) , and the star wheel all the way down , i'm not bottoming the pin in side the housing yet .....
so i suspect cutting the washer in 1/2 won't be of benifit until much higher boost pressures are reached ( meaning a metal headgasket and arp studs ) .
grinding the fuel pin will achieve more fuel at any given boost level , and spooling the turbo up much much faster than the steepest stock setting . -
#22 by KTZed on 02 Apr, 2008 13:53
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grinding the fuel pin will achieve more fuel at any given boost level
As far as I understand, thats what the max fuel screw adjusts. I would rather play with that than grind my pin because its easier and fully reversible.
You may be right about the washer though...I will do some testing and calcs to figure out the spring constant so I can graph the boost pressure vs fuel pin position. -
#23 by Baxter on 14 May, 2008 14:02
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RE: removing the washer.
Would it not be a good idea to replace the thick plastic washer with a small rubber o-ring, that way you still have some cushioning and increased travel.
just a thought. -
#24 by burnt_servo on 14 May, 2008 22:37
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something i'm just now realising , unless your making over 30 pounds of boost ( like a cummins engine ) , there isn't enough presure even with the softest vw diaphram spring to bottom out the fuel pin .
so cutting , removing or replacing the plastic washer does nothing till you reach the higher boost levels . -
#25 by jimfoo on 15 May, 2008 06:31
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Quote from: "burnt_servo"
something i'm just now realising , unless your making over 30 pounds of boost ( like a cummins engine ) , there isn't enough presure even with the softest vw diaphram spring to bottom out the fuel pin .
Just wondering how you are figuring that? -
#26 by burnt_servo on 15 May, 2008 07:58
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Quote from: "jimfoo"Quote from: "burnt_servo"
something i'm just now realising , unless your making over 30 pounds of boost ( like a cummins engine ) , there isn't enough presure even with the softest vw diaphram spring to bottom out the fuel pin .
Just wondering how you are figuring that?
just watching the marks in the grease on the pin , and figuring out how far it travels downward . with a greenish blue spring ( the lightest vw spring i've found so far ) the 20 psi peak my turbo hits isn't bottoming the pin .
to counter the pin not bottoming , i ground a deeper taper into the pin -
#27 by zukgod1 on 15 May, 2008 08:51
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Quote from: "Mr Brick-Yard"
RE: removing the washer.
Would it not be a good idea to replace the thick plastic washer with a small rubber o-ring, that way you still have some cushioning and increased travel.
just a thought.
Now I'm not bashing you with this comment Mr Brick I just need to do say something.
I've read more than once here that people (may only 2) are concerned about removing the plastic washer..
Lets look at that for a sec shale we?
First off there is never enough force in there to do any harm with the washer removed. I do not believe it's purpose is cushioning. If anything its there to limit travel.
The plastic washer moves the pin farther down at the no boost setting due to the thickness.
If it's removed the pin sits higher at no boost thus a tad less fuel till boost builds. If you leave it there you have that very little bit of more fuel off idle.
What I did was to remove it and install a metal washer in it's place that was the same DIA as the pin so it would have more travel, maybe only 2mm at the most but we are talking about mm of adjustment here anyway.
I custom ground the pin to have a more aggressive slope and I removed some material from the bottom as well as the pin was hitting the bottom of its travel and not using the full ramp.
this gave me more usable fuel on the top end.
I hit 30psi all the time so pressure isn't a issue with me as to spring pre load. I have the pre load on the spring turned way up to the top so it's really still so it smokes less at low rpms. Once I'm rolling and the boost hits past 5 psi I can fell the fuel increase allot more.
Goes from 5psi to 25 FAST.
I'm thinking of grinding another pin with a mild slope the first 1/4 of it maybe then a aggressive slope after that so my usual around town driving is less smoky until I mash it and once it hits the steep part of the slope it will dump more fuel in..