Lots of smoke...What do you think?

[ilomax]

I got a Rabbit truck that has a later 1.6L with hydraulic lifters that has been sitting for probably the last 6 years.

First of all, starting is extremely hard and pumps out smoke while turning over.

So after turning over for a minute the car finally comes to life (Abnormal amount of smoke).

It will puff smoke once it turns on and than slowly starts to fade away.

Once it warms up, there is almost zero smoke at idle and very little under normal driving (Not hard at all).

When I give it 3/4 to full throttle, it's a smoke screen of white/gray smoke.

What would a bent valve do?  The timing belt was very loose, but not broken when I got it.

What are your thought?

This is what I know:
- I know the glow plugs are getting power, but haven't tested them.
- Needs an oil change, one of the lifters is tapping.
- Timing is correct, but haven't check the pump with gauge.
- Doesn't overheat
- No coolant in oil and visa versa
- 1000 CA battery with new cables
- Engine feels like it has good power and not slugish
- Hasn't been driven for the last 6 years or so
- When I first got the truck and checked the timing belt, it was loose
- Cracked all of the injectors to get air out
- Don't know the condition of the injectors

Thanks for your input.

[ilomax]

Ohh ya, I was also searching for the thread that tells all of the differences in smoke color.

Can someone help?

[ilomax]

No one, really?

Am I being to needy?

[smoken u]

test the glow plugs they are proabably the problem for starting.

I don't know about the smoke. mine leaves a black patch in my driveway in the morning and smokes black when driving but have never had a problem with it.

[ilomax]

I agree, if I were to take an educated guess, I would think the glow plugs are the culprit.

I'm more wondering about the white/gray smoke while driving.
I would think head gasket, but no over heating.  Cooling system acts normal.

It does have green coolant and the coolant passages are probably the size of a pin hole.  

Could it still be a HG and not over heat?

I just thought about it, but I haven't looked in the intake to see how much blow by there is.

[burn_your_money]

Timing belts are suppose to be pretty loose, did you do anything to tighten it up?

Check the pump timing, it's probably off

[ilomax]

I have all of the locking tools, so it should be off.  I'll check it out, I guess it could be a tooth off.

The belt was loose enough to were I could pull it off of the cam and pump pretty easily.

Also, say there was a bent valve (or 8 :shock:), would it cause smoke? What would the symptoms be?

Does anyone have the link to the page that tells what color smoke means what.  Does that make any sense?  :roll:

[Vincent Waldon]

I have all of the locking tools, so it should be off.  I'll check it out, I guess it could be a tooth off.

But the question is: what does your dial indicator tell you the timing is set to ?

[burn_your_money]

Yes as I found out today even with the locking tools you can still be off a tooth, you need the dial gauge.

You should be able to turn the belt 45 degrees between the pump and cam with minimal effort, which is rather loose

[burn_your_money]

http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=10588
smoke summary

[ilomax]

Yes as I found out today even with the locking tools you can still be off a tooth, you need the dial gauge.

You should be able to turn the belt 45 degrees between the pump and cam with minimal effort, which is rather loose

Very true and I don't have a dial gauge.... One of those things that I want and need, but don't want to drop the money on it. :roll:

I'll have to just suck it up and get one...Or borrow one :lol:.

The 45 deg twist on the belt is what it's at now.  It was 90 deg. and above. :shock:

It has hydraulic lifters and it obviously needs an oil change.  One or more of the lifters are ticking (Loudly) and I was wondering how common it was for the lifters to fail?
While turning over I get a tick / knock noise, could that be the lifter that is not working or failed?

[jimfoo]

Yes as I found out today even with the locking tools you can still be off a tooth, you need the dial gauge.

You should be able to turn the belt 45 degrees between the pump and cam with minimal effort, which is rather loose

I don't know I'd say minimal effort. When I first got my engine, I borrowed a belt gauge, and it had a fair bit of force at 45*, and I couldn't really turn it past about 60*.

[burn_your_money]

I say minimal meaning that there is a sharp increase in resistance once you start turning past 45 degrees. Not the easiest thing to describe and certainly not accurate

There is a complete timing kit on ebay for ~$75 right now