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Author Topic: wtb: k14 or k24 wastegate or just valve  (Read 4565 times)

March 06, 2008, 11:30:08 am

myke_w

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wtb: k14 or k24 wastegate or just valve
« on: March 06, 2008, 11:30:08 am »
I need a junk kkk wastegate to rip apart and get the valve out to lap my wastegate housings, anybody got one they'd sell for cheap?


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Reply #1March 06, 2008, 12:24:15 pm

jasonsansfleece

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wtb: k14 or k24 wastegate or just valve
« Reply #1 on: March 06, 2008, 12:24:15 pm »
I think you would be better off carefully dismantling your own WG and using the valve you have. The valve and seat once lapped become a matched pair. Lapping with another valve then reinstaling the WG will not insure a good gas seal.
You also need the WG body to hold the valve square to the seat whilst lapping.
I recently did this job. Feel free to ask
Guy

Reply #2March 06, 2008, 12:41:30 pm

myke_w

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wtb: k14 or k24 wastegate or just valve
« Reply #2 on: March 06, 2008, 12:41:30 pm »
how in the world did you get it apart and all back together again without wrecking it? got a link to some pics?

Thanks for any and all advice.
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Reply #3March 06, 2008, 12:57:14 pm

TedV

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wtb: k14 or k24 wastegate or just valve
« Reply #3 on: March 06, 2008, 12:57:14 pm »
Jake (FSPGTD??) had a post on here from years ago on how he lapped his K24 waste gate.  I'd post a link but me and the search here don't work so well together.  :oops:

Reply #4March 06, 2008, 01:23:48 pm

myke_w

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wtb: k14 or k24 wastegate or just valve
« Reply #4 on: March 06, 2008, 01:23:48 pm »
actually all those pics were down a bit ago, I im'ed him about it, I really hope he still has them somewhere, I'd be more than happy to host them for him.
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Reply #5March 06, 2008, 01:35:01 pm

saurkraut

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wtb: k14 or k24 wastegate or just valve
« Reply #5 on: March 06, 2008, 01:35:01 pm »
Its easy.  I've done it a couple times.

It helps to have the hot wrench handy.  You can probably get two out of three out with out any heat, and the third will round out its head, and heat will be required.

Now I heat each allen screw head until they become red hot and always plan on buying new screws for the waste gate.

Once the screw are out, you have to use the body of the waste gate as a slide hammer to knock the heat shield loose.

Once its out, smear the wastegate valve face with valve grinding paste.  Put it in the hole and lape the two togather.

I think it takes about three or so re-applications of the paste to get a good circular pattern in the waste gate seat.

Clean out the valve grinding paste.  Blot the waste gate back on with your NEW screws.

Go nutz.
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Reply #6March 06, 2008, 02:16:16 pm

myke_w

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wtb: k14 or k24 wastegate or just valve
« Reply #6 on: March 06, 2008, 02:16:16 pm »
I got the wastegate off just fine. My seating surface is pretty messed up, and just spinning the wastegate around in the hole isn't going to cut it this time. Also, the washer centers got bent on thier way out (slide hammering) so the fit is bad until it's bolted back in.

I need instructions for actually taking the wastgate itself apart ;)
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Reply #7March 06, 2008, 05:40:17 pm

andy2

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wtb: k14 or k24 wastegate or just valve
« Reply #7 on: March 06, 2008, 05:40:17 pm »
The k14 (1.9L) wastegate has a smaller valve than the k24 just as a note.

Reply #8March 06, 2008, 09:54:23 pm

jasonsansfleece

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wtb: k14 or k24 wastegate or just valve
« Reply #8 on: March 06, 2008, 09:54:23 pm »
Note how the top of the WG is fitted to the body, fitted over and then crimped under. You need to un crimp that joint. I used a vise and a screwdriver and gently worked my way around, several times, as you dont want to over do it.
Finaly the top can be worked off. Again, the least amount of uncrimping as you will shortly be recrimping!
Top off, you can remove spring etc. cant remember exact order of bits but what you do want to do is undo the nut on the valve stem (thats why there is a hex socket in the face of the valve)
Now you have the two components you need for lapping, the valve and the body. I took a one inch length of fuel hose the right size for a snug fit on the valve stem and in one end jambed a bolt with its head cut off.
Clamp turbo in the vise. Lube valve stem and place in WG body. Lapping compound on valve seats and place WG body in turbo. Put the hose/bolt tool in a drill and onto valve stem. Hold WG firmly with one hand and run the drill with the other, back and forth, up and down, fresh paste as needed.
Reassembly, I dressed the uncrimped edge with a file, lightly, just to remove any points that would hang up and using the vise and pushing got the top back on. Making sure its on all the way you need to re crimp the edge. I used the vise as an anvil and curled the edge around with a hammer. I might have used a cold chisel or a screwdriver to turn the edge right home. I also recollect wishing for a third hand at this point.
There you go.
Guy

Reply #9March 21, 2008, 12:30:15 pm

starrd

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wtb: k14 or k24 wastegate or just valve
« Reply #9 on: March 21, 2008, 12:30:15 pm »
Quote from: "myke_w"
actually all those pics were down a bit ago, I im'ed him about it, I really hope he still has them somewhere, I'd be more than happy to host them for him.


I downloaded the whole write up and I finally found it the other day - I could convert to PDF if someone wants a copy - I do have the pictures Jake posted in there as well.  

I re-posted here:

http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13357
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