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Crank nose repair question
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Topic: Crank nose repair question (Read 6329 times)
January 29, 2008, 05:26:17 pm
jimfoo
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Crank nose repair question
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January 29, 2008, 05:26:17 pm »
I had the machine shop work on my crank so I could fit a TDI gear. The shop built up the whole crank for a tight fit, then ground the flat, but they didn't fill in the old slot. Is this going to be a problem? I imagine I could weld it up myself as the hardest part has been done, if it really needs it.
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Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily
Reply #1
January 29, 2008, 07:05:31 pm
wyldman
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Crank nose repair question
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Reply #1 on:
January 29, 2008, 07:05:31 pm »
I always weld them up first,then machine to fit.
I wouldn't weld it now,or you will need to remachine.
Check it for hairline cracks right around the keyway.If there are any,I'd be getting it fixed.
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Reply #2
January 29, 2008, 07:11:56 pm
jimfoo
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Crank nose repair question
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January 29, 2008, 07:11:56 pm »
Well, I guess it would be hard for it to fail in the same manner. It is a good tight fit. Maybe I'll just JB Weld it as that can't hurt. I don't see any cracks, so I guess it isn't too bad.
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Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily
Reply #3
January 29, 2008, 07:15:04 pm
wyldman
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Crank nose repair question
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January 29, 2008, 07:15:04 pm »
Did they magnaflux it ? Sometimes you cannot see the cracks.
Where did they machine the flat ? Is it 180 degrees away from the original keyway ? If so,you should be OK.I would not use any JB weld.
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Reply #4
January 29, 2008, 07:18:44 pm
jimfoo
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Crank nose repair question
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January 29, 2008, 07:18:44 pm »
Nope, it's where the original keyway was. maybe I could make my own flat on the other side.
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Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily
Reply #5
January 29, 2008, 07:20:46 pm
wyldman
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Crank nose repair question
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January 29, 2008, 07:20:46 pm »
Hmmm....
I have seen a few done like that and they later cracked.
You might want to consider welding it up properly,and remaching it.
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Reply #6
January 29, 2008, 09:39:24 pm
935racer
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Crank nose repair question
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Reply #6 on:
January 29, 2008, 09:39:24 pm »
If they machined the flat on top of the old key way it should be redone, I machine the flat 180 out from there all the time given the crank nose isn't damaged yet. If it is it gets welded up and re machined.
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Reply #7
January 30, 2008, 10:48:44 am
jimfoo
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Crank nose repair question
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January 30, 2008, 10:48:44 am »
Ok, I welded it up, about 3-4 times, and carefully ground it down, about 3-4 times, until I got it. It is now a tight press fit, I need to use the bolt to snug it up, and it has no movement. I can see where a mill or bridgeport would be very handy. I had to settle for a dremel, a very steady hand, and a very slow cutting diamond disc.
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Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily
Reply #8
January 30, 2008, 11:23:06 am
burn_your_money
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Crank nose repair question
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Reply #8 on:
January 30, 2008, 11:23:06 am »
Do you have any pictures?
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Reply #9
January 30, 2008, 11:57:12 am
jimfoo
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Crank nose repair question
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January 30, 2008, 11:57:12 am »
While it isn't too bad, I don't think it is nice enough for pictures as the flash seems to magnify any little imperfection, making it look far worse than it is.
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Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily
Reply #10
January 30, 2008, 12:07:47 pm
burn_your_money
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Crank nose repair question
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Reply #10 on:
January 30, 2008, 12:07:47 pm »
it can't be any worse then if I did it, which I'll probably end up doing one of these fine days
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Tyler
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Crank nose repair question