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Pimping the glow plugs
by
Vincent Waldon
on 27 Jan, 2008 19:34
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#1
by
subsonic
on 27 Jan, 2008 22:58
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I like.
Any concerns about longevity with those glass fuses? Will they be able to handle all the rumble and shaking?
ps. your title kicks ass.
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#2
by
jtanguay
on 28 Jan, 2008 07:39
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with this type of setup i suppose if you used LED's to tell which ones are coming on, that could also detect glow plugs that are 100% bad? (100% resistance)
pretty cool! I will definitely consider this for my TDI engine. this is a really good idea. getting juice to the glow plugs is pretty crucial
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#3
by
Baselyne
on 28 Jan, 2008 09:17
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You really did make that a simple, Clean report on how to pimp your GP's
I would like to hand it to ya! Your site is really cool and informative
After i get home from work, get up in the morning that's all I wanna hear about is VW's
ahahha yah....tell the wife that pfffffffff!
I enjoyed reading your write up, I will probubley try this...
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#4
by
Vincent Waldon
on 28 Jan, 2008 13:05
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I like.
Any concerns about longevity with those glass fuses? Will they be able to handle all the rumble and shaking?
Excellent question.... hmmmmmm....
I did buy fuses intended for automotive use, but they are certainly more fragile looking than the standard blade-type.
I'll monitor and see how they do... between my driving style and Edmonton roads they will be tested for sure !
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#5
by
lord_verminaard
on 28 Jan, 2008 14:50
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I like that a lot, was wondering what I was going to do with the TDI glowplugs.... also a nice way to have an indicator light.
I'd probably like to use a blade-type fuse holder too, even one with a cover on it, but this is still much better than factory.
Brendan
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#6
by
madmedix
on 31 Jan, 2008 22:50
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Nicely done Vince
. I would add a piece of clear lexan over the fuse block (say the bottom of a package of socks or barbie packaging with the sides cut off...leaving it in the shape of a "C") to protect it from the inevitable road spray sneaking up from below or around the headlight lenses, but not trapping any moisture or heat.
As for the glass fuses, never had a problem with them through the '80s in a blown z28 that rode harder than a locomotive...can't see a big problem in a dub; then again the build quality of things the last little while has me shaking my head. :roll:
Cheers,
Andy
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#7
by
jtanguay
on 31 Jan, 2008 23:55
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Some diesels use a heating screen in the air intake instead of glow plugs. I would keep the stock glow plugs and go that route instead of messing with the glow plugs. I wouldn't want pieces floating around my cylinders.
i've wondered about getting a propane torch in the intake to heat it. that way it's instant heat and no draw on the battery. the engine would probably start all the time
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#8
by
Vincent Waldon
on 01 Feb, 2008 00:21
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Nicely done Vince . I would add a piece of clear lexan over the fuse block (say the bottom of a package of socks or barbie packaging with the sides cut off...leaving it in the shape of a "C")
Brilliant... great suggestion !!!
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#9
by
Patrick
on 27 Feb, 2008 20:18
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Some diesels use a heating screen in the air intake instead of glow plugs. I would keep the stock glow plugs and go that route instead of messing with the glow plugs. I wouldn't want pieces floating around my cylinders.
i've wondered about getting a propane torch in the intake to heat it. that way it's instant heat and no draw on the battery. the engine would probably start all the time
Haven't done it on the volks (yet!) but I've done it on other things that had no glow plugs.............. it works in a pinch.
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#10
by
Patrick
on 27 Feb, 2008 20:26
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I was just considering doing the 4 separate wire thing , (pretty sure I've got 1 or 2 plugs fried and it's a pain to pull them alll to check) and thought I'd have a look around to see how heavy a wire was needed. I see you used 10 guage. Is 12 heavy enough or not?? got some 12 in stock....... BTW, rather than the glass fuses, have you considered a 50 amp post type breaker? Available at any truck part place, worht about 6 or 7 bucks. Just take the wires off the factory fuse and put them on the breaker. I've got two cars set up that way.
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#11
by
burn_your_money
on 27 Feb, 2008 20:38
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i've wondered about getting a propane torch in the intake to heat it. that way it's instant heat and no draw on the battery. the engine would probably start all the time
Cold propane is harder then a diesel to start IMO. In the event of the flame being extinguished I'm not sure how well the engine would fare on the compression stroke full of propane
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#12
by
Vincent Waldon
on 27 Feb, 2008 23:58
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e you used 10 guage. Is 12 heavy enough or not?? got some 12 in stock....... BTW, rather than the glass fuses, have you considered a 50 amp post type breaker?
That would work too.
The reason I used individual fuses is that they are easy to remove... then you can quickly check continuity on each plug individually.
One of the drawbacks with the buss bar is that you can't easily test them one at a time.
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#13
by
Patrick
on 28 Feb, 2008 05:47
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Exactly why I was thinking about 4 separate wires. Still would be individually testable by taking the nut off the circuit breaker, the stud is lots long enough to stack 4 connectors on. Is 12 guage big enough? or do I need to buy some 10 guage?
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#14
by
Vincent Waldon
on 28 Feb, 2008 09:38
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