Author Topic: Block Painting  (Read 6601 times)

January 06, 2008, 04:09:14 pm

subsonic

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Block Painting
« on: January 06, 2008, 04:09:14 pm »
I am going to paint my block before it all gets put together.  I figure I can wing it, but would love to hear from you that have already done it.

The block has been run through the cleaning tank at the machine shop.  I was planning on going over it with a wire brush to get any stuck on, flakey crap off.

Does anyone have any prep tips or tricks that they feel like sharing?

Any tips on sealing off parts of the block that need to be kept paint free?

Paint application?  Did anyone prime, or just go straight to color?  Thinners or hardeners used?

What have you used for paint application?

Drying /curing.  Just air dry at room temp?

Type of paint.  Needs to be durable and be able to take the heat.
I was thinking of one of the John Deere greens.  I am guessing that the same paint that is used on the tractor blocks will be OK for our blocks.  
Comments?
2009 Jetta TDI Loyal edition, 6-spd. 16V 2.0CR


1985 VW Golf 5-spd, 4-door, 1.6NA  Bought from orig. owner in Savannah with 42,000 miles.
"Making the jump NA to TD" slow but sure.

1980 VW Rabbit LS 5-spd, 4-door 1.6NA almost 450,000miles  RIP

Reply #1January 07, 2008, 12:00:28 am

Turbinepowered

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Block Painting
« Reply #1 on: January 07, 2008, 12:00:28 am »
I haven't done a block yet, but I did recently paint a set of manifolds, the valve cover and the oil pan of my Fox.

I bought that Dupli-Color stuff that you can get in a FLAPS type place. Says it's rated for 500F, comes in a variety of colors, seems durable enough, and was easy to spray on. Two light coats ten minutes apart, another ten minutes then a middling-wet coat. Let it all dry and you're done, handleable in three hours.

I masked everything off with painter's tape, since it's designed to come off surfaces without leaving a lot of tacky residue behind. It's the blue stuff you can buy in the paint department of places like Home Depot or Lowe's or ACE (I love ACE, lots of esoteric little things, but that's a digression).

I used petroleum jelly to mask things like bolt threads and heads.

Reply #2January 07, 2008, 09:30:58 am

jimfoo

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Block Painting
« Reply #2 on: January 07, 2008, 09:30:58 am »
Not sure if you are painting the head as well, but if you are, you will need to use an acid etch primer as paint doesn't stick to Al very well. Priming the block will help as long as the primer can take the heat.
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #3January 07, 2008, 03:16:32 pm

zukgod1

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Block Painting
« Reply #3 on: January 07, 2008, 03:16:32 pm »
I just painted the block I just got back from the machine shop.

I used a ceramic based gloss black. Dont know how long it will last.
I have used this paint in the past as well on other blocks. I even painted a set of SBC heads, it burned a bit just above the exhaust ports but the rest held up well.
I think it's a Krylon paint.
dan

99 Golf TDI (now CNG powered) , 82 TD Caddy

Reply #4January 07, 2008, 04:04:04 pm

subsonic

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« Reply #4 on: January 07, 2008, 04:04:04 pm »
I have seen the ceramic paint before.  Would that hold the heat in the block, as well as reflect heat from the engine compartment?
2009 Jetta TDI Loyal edition, 6-spd. 16V 2.0CR


1985 VW Golf 5-spd, 4-door, 1.6NA  Bought from orig. owner in Savannah with 42,000 miles.
"Making the jump NA to TD" slow but sure.

1980 VW Rabbit LS 5-spd, 4-door 1.6NA almost 450,000miles  RIP

Reply #5January 08, 2008, 05:52:53 pm

silvertdi

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« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2008, 05:52:53 pm »
Many years ago when I worked in an auto parts store (20 yrs ago), folks would come in and buy auto body paint to use on their engine block.  They particularly liked Imron by 3M.  Pretty toxic paint, but extremely durable.  They may have something better nowadays. When I build my motor I'd like to paint (powdercoat) it wrinkle finish black...kinda like the new Harley Davidson engines.  I think that would look pretty sharp...especially with a few chrome bits like the valve cover, timing cover, etc.

Reply #6January 08, 2008, 07:54:06 pm

subsonic

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« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2008, 07:54:06 pm »
That would look cool.

Don't cha have to bake on the powder coat to set it? Man you are going to need a BIG oven :wink:
2009 Jetta TDI Loyal edition, 6-spd. 16V 2.0CR


1985 VW Golf 5-spd, 4-door, 1.6NA  Bought from orig. owner in Savannah with 42,000 miles.
"Making the jump NA to TD" slow but sure.

1980 VW Rabbit LS 5-spd, 4-door 1.6NA almost 450,000miles  RIP

Reply #7January 09, 2008, 05:39:51 am

jtanguay

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« Reply #7 on: January 09, 2008, 05:39:51 am »
Quote from: "subsonic"
That would look cool.

Don't cha have to bake on the powder coat to set it? Man you are going to need a BIG oven :wink:


i bet the bare block would fit inside a nice fair sized oven.  if not there are infrared heaters that'll do the job  :wink:


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Reply #8January 09, 2008, 07:09:47 am

jimfoo

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Re: Block Painting
« Reply #8 on: January 09, 2008, 07:09:47 am »
Quote from: "subsonic"

Type of paint.  Needs to be durable and be able to take the heat.
I was thinking of one of the John Deere greens.  I am guessing that the same paint that is used on the tractor blocks will be OK for our blocks.  
Comments?

I think a John Deer green is a great color, though I may be a bit biased is it is almost an exact match for the original Rover block color. Then again Rovers started as sort of an agricultural vehicle with a tractor like engine.
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #9January 09, 2008, 04:25:44 pm

subsonic

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« Reply #9 on: January 09, 2008, 04:25:44 pm »
Just as a bragging point, who was there first?  The rover has been around a looong time.
2009 Jetta TDI Loyal edition, 6-spd. 16V 2.0CR


1985 VW Golf 5-spd, 4-door, 1.6NA  Bought from orig. owner in Savannah with 42,000 miles.
"Making the jump NA to TD" slow but sure.

1980 VW Rabbit LS 5-spd, 4-door 1.6NA almost 450,000miles  RIP

Reply #10January 09, 2008, 05:13:15 pm

jimfoo

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« Reply #10 on: January 09, 2008, 05:13:15 pm »
1948, though the engines were robins egg blue for a while.
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #11February 03, 2008, 07:11:01 pm

Krazy

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Block Painting
« Reply #11 on: February 03, 2008, 07:11:01 pm »
I like Caterpillar Yellow.  I think all Clatterpillars should be painted Yellow.
Jack Carr
Mt. Juliet, TN
I drive a Clatterpillar 1.6 n/a

Reply #12February 03, 2008, 07:55:50 pm

jtanguay

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« Reply #12 on: February 03, 2008, 07:55:50 pm »
Quote from: "Krazy"
I like Caterpillar Yellow.  I think all Clatterpillars should be painted Yellow.


yea i like the yellow too myself...


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Reply #13February 10, 2008, 01:49:27 pm

AdAm84

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Block Painting
« Reply #13 on: February 10, 2008, 01:49:27 pm »
When I painted the block for my Jeep(sorry Jimfoo) :lol: I used plasticote semi-gloss black and ford (unfortunatly) red for accents. I primed everything first with engine block primer. Makes a huge difference. Needs less paint in the end. And I used POR-20 Black for the headers. No problems on either after 3500 mi. Biggest thing is to prep. it. Use lots of Brake cleen. lol

Reply #14February 15, 2008, 01:35:58 am

BlackTieTD

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Block Painting
« Reply #14 on: February 15, 2008, 01:35:58 am »
I'm not sure what the thermal conductivity is of these types of coatings or if the manufacturers would give up this information or even know the values themselves.

The thermal conductivity of aluminum is typically between 120 and 250 W/m*K depending on alloy/temperature. Steel is a lot worse, like 15 to 30 W/m*K. Grey cast iron is around 70.

If you are able to get thermal conductivity data for the coating in question, and find that the values are lower than those for aluminum and steel, then the coating will likely hinder the heat dissipation abilities of whatever it is you are coating.

There is a reason heads are aluminum and its not just weight. Have fun.  :)