Adding oil squirters?

[myke_w]

Cheers for that, I'll hopefully be busy drilling and tapping for the squirters tomorrow anyway

fionn, are running the bmw squirters? if so would you snap a pic for us?

[Fionn]

Hi Guys,
            No, I got the regular VW Squirters, the squirter and bolt that goes with it cost me 24 euro each from the main dealer.
Part Nos:
068 103 1578
N 902 415 01

For what it's worth, the hole for the squirter is 8.5mm in diameter and the bolt requires a 6 x 1 Metric tap.
It was quite easy but I could have made a better job of it.
The hole, rather than being vertical should be angled back towards the oil channel that you're aiming for.
2 of my squirter holes ended up slightly oval which is not good but I'm hoping that some chemical metal or similar around the squirter might prevent me from losing too much pressure.

[myke_w]

FYI: http://e30m3performance.com/installs/installs-3/squirters/index.htm

That guy has made an extensive write up of the subject..

http://e30m3performance.com/installs/installs-3/squirters/pic-7.jpg

the banjo bolt on the right shows a spring inside the 618 style squirter, which I think proves it doesn't open at low pressures..

I think those would definitely be the simplest, they certainly are cheap at around 6 bucks each...One hole to drill, face, and tap, and you're done, only gotcha is mimicking the squirter angle on the td block.

[socalsean]

The angle doesn't have to be perfect. The nozzle just needs to be pointed in the general direction.

[myke_w]

I was actually referring to angling the drill hole properly so it breaks out into the galley

[dillenger1]

MYKE_W are you adding oil squirters?

[myke_w]

I have a bunch of NA blocks... and a bunch of people wanting turbo motors..

If I can figure out how to get the drill rig set up I'll do it.. Time is the major factor for me... this is more of a hobby project and stuff like this almost always gets relegated to the back burner..

I need to figure out what the guy in the turbobricks forum is using:

Questions being

1) what the hell is that thing he's using to hold the bit? He says it's a "faced off a FORD 2300 head bolt to have a square surface" I've never seen a heal bolt like that.
2) where do we get a long drill bit like that?
3) where do we get a face cutter?

[sootyperry]

what about early 94' aba 2.0L gasser oil squirters? are they the same? adaptable?

[itzdshtz]

I think that he has used a Ford head bolt because it has a bigger head on it, say a 19mm or 22mm wrench size instead of the 17mm original size.

This is to have a bigger area to support the aluminum bracket, he then machined a little bit off the top of this bolt head to get all the manufacturers lettering off and to make sure that it is flat.  

Next, he drilled a hole into the head of the bolt and tapped it with an 8mm tap.

The big bolt goes into the bearing cap first, gets torqued down and then the aluminum guide plate is bolted on top of this bolt with the 8mm bolt.
You can then adjust the drill position and torque the 8mm bolt down last.

The extra long drill and face cutter can be ordered from any machine tool supplier.

Easy to make.

Herman

[myke_w]

what about early 94' aba 2.0L gasser oil squirters? are they the same? adaptable?

same as td vw

[socalsean]

I was actually referring to angling the drill hole properly so it breaks out into the galley

Ahhh...that needs to be pretty dead on  

[CathodeRayTube]

I just had a thought about this in the last few days... why not add oil SLINGERS to the crank shaft...like in a simple lawn mower engine...all it would require is adding a simple metal stick of some shape to the bottom of the connecting rods, held on by the main bolts...like a washer... and the bottom of this would dip into the oil sump and splatter the oil all over the inside of the engine, including the upper cylinders...could probably shape them so they target the cylinders instead of just everywhere also... and its so simple. may require keeping the oil level a little higher than normal...

only reason i could think of why this wouldnt work is if there is some guard under the crank shaft im not aware of...or if it would make the oil foam or something...

thoughts?

[flowmastergfunk]

I wanted to do this to the 4 banger in my 190d 2.2 soooo bad! That engine would be a monster with a turbo strapped to it! I will keep this bookmarked in the back of my head as "possible" 

[billybobf]

I actuallly wanted to find out about drilling another hole in the connecting rod that lines up with the rod bearing oil supply, then maybe braze or silver solder a peice of small brass tube into that hole and silver solder it to the rod directing it to the piston head, could also supply oil to the small end bushing area if so desired.

 A real slick option would be some billet aluminum rods that were rifle drilled with this option, after installing the small end bushing, you would have to re-drill the holes and maybe make a shallow grove in the bushing to allow the oil to transfer to the top hole proving a constant oil flow to the piston, no cutting the skirts, no drilling and tapping, just a simple set of custom rods, (shoot this could be an upgrade to the TD block as the oil would always be going to the center of the piston, not just at bottom of the stroke) you could also drill and tap the hole at the big end oversize, add a spring, check ball and an adjustable set screw, this could allow a certain break away pressure possibly even flow rate. all in a simple set of upgrade connecting rods.

This being said, its alot more money but kills several birds with one stone. You would have billet aluminum rods, lubricated small end bushings, and piston oil squirters all at once. and have it bolt on. if they were sold with rod bearings and small end bushings they would be perfect for anyone doing a rebuild. My biggest concern at that point would be the oil supply to the main bearings transfer the oil to the rod bearings transfer the oil to the bushing, transfer the oil the the piston. That being said, thats how ALL rod bearings are supplied the oil they get, so whats one more step as long as the output at the piston is metered with either the correct jet size, or the spring check valve.
hmm, I need a shortblock to measure and mill my own rods.

[monomer]

You don't want "billet" aluminum rods. They'd last all of maybe a month. It's no-where near the perfect material for this application. Way to much stress.


Corilla will make you whatever rod you want. I was quoted $800 for a forged set of h-beams a few years back. I settled on stock rods resized with arp2600 hardware. Should have had them peened and polished, but even stock they'll hold up to just about as much as you can make before snapping mains caps off.

Someone need to make a simple drill fixture that bolt to the bottom of the block. If I didn't have a TD block sitting wait to get bored out I'd make one. Just a chunk of alumn. and some drill bushing plus some time on the bridgeport....