do i spray brake cleaner on the pads now?
they have run 5/7.000km since the oil issue...
i suposed that now they have been used enough to clear any oil that were in the surface?
i think the pads can soak up the oil... if you caught it early you could just burn it off by driving the crap out of it.
i guess that my best bet is to check for the rear drums and the proportional valve adjustment.
will check the pads too.
then i will look for a 22mm Master cilinder and brake booster...
its ok to use that without rear discs?
they are plug and play or do i need to replace anything to make them work?
that way if i´m not happy i wont be taking more parts out to garbage as i would need them as well when upgrading to bigger discs/calipers right?
can someone tell if the brake booster on 20mm setups is the same size as in 22mm?
its easyer to fing a MKIII or passat than a MKII gti,if its 4x100 it will work?
Also the type of pad can make a huge difference. The best I've found so far is the Hawk HPS pads. They will make a noticeable difference. When putting new pads on, skuff the rotors with about 100 grit emery paper and clean with brake cleaner. Google" Bedding In Brakes" = good info. Make sure all contact surfaces, caliper sliders, where the pads touch the slider are smooth.
Good Luck!
-JB
My 2 cents about great brakes. I live on a 5 mile hill that represents an autocross course. Here it is...
Running front vented rotor is important in my situation, my rabbit runs 90 cabrio pads and rotors. Pads are the same, but half thickness. Mt jetta runs the large 88 gli pads and rotors and spindle/caliper bracket. But the cabrio is direct replacement (with vents).
Rear - I had gli pads and rotors ebrake on my last jetta and always had problems. either the slides froze, ebrakes hung up, rotors delamed...
I run Drums on back. Properly adjusted they rock. Really I hammer this thing and never smoke brakes any more. The trick is to back off e-brake cables remove one lug nut, stick pick thru lug nut hole, into the hole on the brake adjust self adjust trangle where the small spring is hooked. Now by turning the drum backwards it will pull it down and bring proper preload to shoes. Let the drag just a little. Now adjust e-brake
If you still require more rear braking, For those who like to get it to slide out, remove weight proportion valve under rear pass. seat. Hope this helps.
The brake adjust trick is cool. No need to remove tire. Use for unadjusting to remove drums with ridge. Grind of ridge! It saves time later.
great suggestion, i'll try it!!!
FWIW, from my BleachedBora Bargain Bin on TDIclub:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=152185*A3/A2:
-Front brake upgrade kit (stock size is 256mm)--includes 288mm drilled and slotted rotors, calipers, and pads --- $475/set shipped
-Complete rear disc brake conversion (w/calipers, bearings, stub axles, proportioning valve (1H0 612 151C), parking brake cable x2 (1H0 609 721E), cross drilled or solid rotors & pads) --- $625/set shipped
-Rear disc brake conversion without cables or proportioning valve --- $475/set shipped
I have had a lot of A2/A3 drivers go with the conversion kits and they have loved them. Just another option for those that want to go new...
Cheers,
-BB
There is only one brake pressure regulator (load sensitive) listed by VW for the mk2 Golf (A2 to you yanks) ATE 357 612 151 for either disc or drum brake models
I changed to disc brakes as soon as I bought my GTD, next I plan to fit Audi 80 S2 Girling 60 two pots, golf g60 discs and a bigger servo and master cyl