Author Topic: Upgrades for brakes on my 86 Golf?? (Read 7697 times)

mtnbob · « **on:** December 09, 2007, 12:48:56 am »

I'm replacing my pads with ceramic on the front and was wondering if there are any reasonable upgrades for my rear drums?? can they be switched to disc? is it worthwhile? I'm spoiled from the ceramic pads i put on my outback so i thought i'd try the same on my daily driver

Ziptar · « **Reply #1 on:** December 09, 2007, 06:45:25 am »

Yes, You can disc the back. My 89 Jetta came factory with rear discs it has the Carat Package.

You'll need to find a an 85-92 Golf GTi / GTi-16V or an 85-92 Jetta GLI / GLI-16V or 88-89 Jetta Carat. I think 87-88 Scirocco 16V will work, brake cable is different though I think. Take everything from the stub axle out to the bearing cap. Actually, if you find a car with a complete rear disk setup, take the whole thing, then you get a sway bar too.

You might need to add a proportioning valve so grab that if there is one. My 89 has standard 9" brakes and rear discs with no prop valve but, I think the car with 10.1 brakes did.

You can also check the Golf II & Jetta II Parts Classifieds over on the Vortex or ebay, they show up fairly often.

I'd say it's worth it... If only the reason I hate doing drum brakes.

mtnbob · « **Reply #2 on:** December 09, 2007, 10:59:05 am »

Cool great info!!!!

And a woot!!! for Englewood I used to work over there as part of my territory in F.L. I lived near Orlando for 24 years.

Ziptar · « **Reply #3 on:** December 09, 2007, 11:15:09 am »

Hah.... Someone that knows about Englewood.... Who would have thought.

I may be heading North soon....

mtnbob · « **Reply #4 on:** December 09, 2007, 12:03:46 pm »

I was tired of f.l. after 25 years. I like it here in upstate s.c., still not to far from the ocean and I can see the mountains everyday

and some snow but not too much unless i venture north a bit.

VWralley · « **Reply #5 on:** December 12, 2007, 12:02:19 pm »

good pads an rotors and a set of fresh wheel cylinders with new shoes makes a drastic difference in braking performance.

if you do choose to go rear disc, make sure to run the prop valve, it becomes a major safety issue to run without it

jtanguay · « **Reply #6 on:** December 12, 2007, 04:25:14 pm »

Quote from: "VWralley"

good pads an rotors and a set of fresh wheel cylinders with new shoes makes a drastic difference in braking performance.

if you do choose to go rear disc, make sure to run the prop valve, it becomes a major safety issue to run without it

you mean with the proper proportioning valve? will the one for the drum brakes work?

VWralley · « **Reply #7 on:** December 17, 2007, 01:47:11 pm »

what i mean is, if you swap to discs, you also need to run the rear beam mounted stock proportioning valve. the cars that came with drums may or may not have it. the screw in pressure valve on the MC are not enough to illeviate 100% of the rear lock up, if you get in a low grip situation or have a very light car, the rears WILL lock up without proper proportioning

Quantum TD · « **Reply #8 on:** December 17, 2007, 06:48:33 pm »

If you're planning the rear disc conversion, you may need to consider a larger master cyl. to send more juice to the rear. The MK II stock 8v came with a 20mm master (IIRC), and the 16v (with rear discs) came with a 22mm (again, IIRC).

Good luck

VWralley · « **Reply #9 on:** December 20, 2007, 04:02:47 pm »

a larger master is not necessary. adding a larger one simply changes the amount of pedal effort required to press the pedal down. this is a common mis-conception.

i run 9.4's w/ rear discs with the 20mm master, it works great.

going with huge front brakes may require a larger master, but changing the rears does not. if you think about it, you have to decrease the pressue substantially to keep the rears discs from locking, why would you need even more going to them?

carrizog60 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 08, 2008, 09:57:32 am »

i have a 88 1.6gtd that has the 20mm MC and drums in the back.
it has proportional valve.
long story short:the car brakes bad.
i have to make much force to the brake to get it stoping but it doesent slowdown that much...and if i go all the way on the pedal the wheels will lock.

what can i do to improve this?
i have changed the stock discs with 239mm vented ones with new pads but still no luck...
dont know how are the drums but according to what i have read the front do almost all the work rigt?

if i upgrade to 22mm MC with gti brake booster what would be the difference?and what about goung to late models larger drums?

any help will be appreciated as i have a golf g60 and compared to that the gtd has no brakes... :roll:

blkboostedtruck · « **Reply #11 on:** January 08, 2008, 10:45:57 am »

well i'll try and help but will be hard because i'm not there to look at the car!
is your vacume pump working? and old brake components usually don't work as well as new! new brake parts may help? your proportioning valve working properly? they do go bad! mine on my rabbit is bad where i only have the front brakes working till yesterday a line blew!!
but i woul check your vacume pump first that sounds like your problem with the reason why you have a hard pedal?
thanks Duane

carrizog60 · « **Reply #12 on:** January 08, 2008, 11:15:07 am »

the pedal is not that hard...the thing is that it takes some force to get the car braking...
how can i check if V.pump is ***?

also,could be the pads contaminated?
3 months ago a oil line that goes to air/oil cooler leakead and it went to the wheel(i know because i hit the brakes and only one side did brake...).
i never thought about it because the car was ok after that(well,i never used the brakes that hard in the time...) :roll:

blkboostedtruck · « **Reply #13 on:** January 08, 2008, 12:50:01 pm »

Quote from: "carrizog60"

the pedal is not that hard...the thing is that it takes some force to get the car braking...
how can i check if V.pump is ***?

also,could be the pads contaminated?
3 months ago a oil line that goes to air/oil cooler leakead and it went to the wheel(i know because i hit the brakes and only one side did brake...).
i never thought about it because the car was ok after that(well,i never used the brakes that hard in the time...) :roll:

the hose that goes to power booster you take off and feel some suction while the motor running! yes oil,grease, brake fluid will contaminate the pads! and make it hard for brake pads to grab! remove pads and spray a brake cleaner! but do not spray on yor caliper! the solvent in that will expant any rubber componits! use a dish washing soap when near rubber parts! A lot of people make the mistake and spray everything with a can of brake parts cleaner! and it will ruin any rubber parts unless it otherwise states on the back of can!
plus when brakes get old they don't work as well as new! rust and road dust and debree help them not move back and forth as well!
well try that?
thanks Duane

carrizog60 · « **Reply #14 on:** January 08, 2008, 12:57:09 pm »

do i spray brake cleaner on the pads now?
they have run 5/7.000km since the oil issue...
i suposed that now they have been used enough to clear any oil that were in the surface?