Author Topic: Anyone else in Colorado? (Read 2432 times)

Smkin85Turbo · « **on:** December 07, 2007, 12:53:11 pm »

Is there any other people with older model Jetta's in the Colorado Springs area? I am looking for help to replace the Timing belt. I will compensate accordingly. Thanks. My Jetta is a 1985 turbo diesel.

Vanagoner · « **Reply #1 on:** December 08, 2007, 01:14:29 pm »

I'm in CO, but don't get that far south often. You can do it, It helps to have the right tools. You can also do that with a door hinge and an 11mm deep socket, or a 10 with tape.. Make sure when you get the valve cover off that the cam lobes on the cyl closest to the pump are up away from the valves, check your flywheel mark (thru the hole in the bell housing) and see what it is supposed to look like. You'll need to look at that crank (or flywheel) tdc mark often.
The cam has a slot across the end of it (on the end away from the pump) which is parallel with the top of the cyl head when the valve cover is off and the engine is at top dead center (tdc). the plate or door hinge goes in here.
Look at the top of the pump, and then see the pump drive wheel. At TDC, you will see that there is both a notch on the pulley wheel and scratch mark that roughly corresponds with it on the mounting bracket next to it. Now look at the pump drive pulley end on. You'll see that there is a hole (a smaller one) at about 3 o'clock which has a corresponding hole in the bracket right behind it. This is where the pump pin (or deep socket) goes.
The crank must be at tdc (verified visually thru the bellhousing sight hole- pointer in the hole matches the v notch in the pressure plate. The cam is then secured with the plate in the notch, and the pin is placed thru the pump pulley wheel into the hole in the bracket behind it. do not loosen the mounting bolts on the pump.
At this point you can loosen the nut on the tensioner wheel, or just remove it because you want to replace that too.
I am new at this, having done it once, so if I'm wrong about anything- veterans please correct me.

Smkin85Turbo · « **Reply #2 on:** December 09, 2007, 09:30:19 pm »

Thanks! This is the kind of information I was looking for to give me enough confidence to do it.

Vanagoner · « **Reply #3 on:** December 10, 2007, 05:40:20 am »

No problem. I'll write more on putting it back on later- cheers.

jimfoo · « **Reply #4 on:** December 10, 2007, 12:10:13 pm »

No Jetta., in fact no running Diesel currently, but I'm in Evergreen and put a new belt on my AAZ a while back.

Smkin85Turbo · « **Reply #5 on:** December 10, 2007, 12:38:28 pm »

Anyone interested in helping out changing the Timing belt? I will drive anywhere if you would not be able to come to where I have my garage. Thanks. You guys are awesome!

blkboostedtruck · « **Reply #6 on:** December 10, 2007, 08:03:35 pm »

if you don't mind cold weather? i can do it and show you the process! and it will give you the confidence to do it from then on! I have all the tools even the belt tension gage tool!
P.S. milwaukee wisconsin is nice and white this time of year! :shock:
well let me know ?
thanks Duane

Vanagoner · « **Reply #7 on:** December 11, 2007, 05:36:24 am »

Sorry '85, my "shop" (dirt driveway next to my trailer [caravan]) has snow on it, and probably not worth the 75 miles to get here.
A couple more things- take note (make a drawing) of the path of the serpentine belt around the various pulleys before you take it off. Clean the pulley wheel surfaces- I use a rag with isopropyl on it. I put the belt back on with the tensioner wheel installed but not tight. Checking the flywheel tdc mark is something you will do over and over again, as you try to get the slack out of the belt. You'll probably turn the crank counterclockwise off of the tdc mark every time you pull on the belt at the front of the engine, and get frustrated. one trick is to see how far you are turning the crank every time you tug on the belt (to get it up to the pinned pump pulley wheel). then try moving the crank off of tdc that amount of rotation before you pull on the belt, so that by pulling the belt up you might end up on the flywheel mark and the belt on the pump (and cam drivewheel) at the same time. I learned that from libbypappa, I think.
I need help from the veterans on this part- I loosened the cam pulley wheel (first backing the nut off) then using a brass hammer, pry tool , and patience to get the cam pulley wheel loose from it's tapered fit to do my pump change.
Q- does the cam wheel need to be loosened just for a belt change, or not?
more later