mk2 head bolt torquing

[fillmore]

ok so the motor in my 89 diesel golf burns oil when its cold but once it warms up it does not so im pretty sure that my head bolts are loose and when my engine is cold the head gasket allowes oil to leake through the openings but when its warm and the gasket expands the oil flows through the head properly.anyways that is the root of my oil burning problem so new topic. Has anyone here ever had to toruqe there head bolts before? what is involved. my valve cover has to come of but what else do i have to remove, my camshaft? and also is there a special kind of star wrench that i need to do this job? is this a job i could do myself or do i need to take it to a professional?
thanks,
myles

[Dr. Diesel]

if you wanna try that, better buy a new set of head bolts and replace them one by one in the proper sequence, to the first stage of torque. After all the new ones are in, then continue through the last stage. It is a special bit for the bolts.
Don't forget to make sure there's no oil in the bottom of the headbolt holes. there's a retorque after reaching running temps, and I think again after 1000km's.

[srivett]

If you want to play with the head bolts you'll need to get the Lisle Triple Square drivers from Canadian Tire.  Oil burning on startup sounds like bad valve seals.  It is also common (from my very limited experience) for the head gasket to leak like a seive externally but not burn oil.

Steve

[fillmore]

thanks guys, and steve your right about the seals, thats the first thing that i replaced and they were comnpletly shot :roll: but anyways whats involved with replacing the bolts? i know the valve cover has to come off but what else? do i need to take my camshaft out too? ive never had to replace the bolts on a veedub before :?
-myles

[racer_x]

I don't think I'd replace the bolts without replacing the head gasket at the same time.

If you replace the gasket and the bolts, the torque spec is something like 44 ft. lbs. plus 1/2 turn (can be done in two 1/4 turn steps), then drive 1000 miles and turn an additional 1/4 turn after 1000 miles. Any decent shop manual (Bentley, maybe even Haynes) will have the procedure and the order for tightening the bolts.

If you want to just try something that might help, turning the bolts you have now an additiona 1/4 turn might fix it. If you know the gasket was replaced at some point and the 1000 mile follow up wasn't done, I'd seriously consider tyring that. Otherwise, I'd recommend a new gasket and new bolts.

[fatmobile]

I was thinking it was 44 ft lbs or whatever then 1/2 turn,
 then warm it up and give it another 1/4 turn,
 then drive 1000 miles and give it another 1/4 turn.

[racer_x]

I was thinking it was 44 ft lbs or whatever then 1/2 turn,
 then warm it up and give it another 1/4 turn,
 then drive 1000 miles and give it another 1/4 turn.

Your procedure sounds right now that you mention it. I don't have my Bentley handy to check. Bentley would be the place to get the exact procedure, though.

[fillmore]

ok i got my head bolts and the special bit for my torque wrench and i checked out a repair manuel from the library so i think if the weathers right this weekend ill be replacing those.
thanks guys youve been a great help!

[Hammy]

I just would like to repeat what Dr. D.  was saying there. It is of utmost importance to make sure that the head bolt holes (in the block) are dry. They are not like most engines (that I've worked on anyways) that are bottomless,. They do not require dressings like Permatex and such. If oil gets trapped in the cavity, located between the tip of the bolt and the bottom of the bolt hole, it can create some problems. First, you might  hydraulic the head bolt and get an incorrect torque value, which can leave you without enough clamp force on the cylinder head. Secondly, (which is why there is different engine in my car) the oil can expand enough to crack the block, making yourself a new boat anchor.

 I personally would expect that if the head gasket leaks, then it is toast, and would replace it, or have it replaced. If you install the head bolts only, and it does not work, you will require yet another set of head bolts, when you likely replace your head gasket.

 Be careful.

[fillmore]

yep so i replaced the head botls today and found my problem. when i took the one on the far drivers side front anntifreeze shot up through the bolt hole so my gasket must be bad around that corner. oh well ill get the gasket replaced later on when i get the money saved

[racer_x]

yep so i replaced the head botls today and found my problem. when i took the one on the far drivers side front anntifreeze shot up through the bolt hole so my gasket must be bad around that corner. oh well ill get the gasket replaced later on when i get the money saved

A couple of observations.

First, I Hope you dried all of the water/coolant out of that hole. If you didn't, there's a good chance the block will crack from the hydraulic pressure of the fluid in the hole below the bolt.

Second, when you replace the head gasket, you're also going to need another set of 10 new bolts.