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Electrical problems w/ my mk1
by
red64chevelle
on 26 Nov, 2007 09:36
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I am having some problems with my 84 Jetta TD.
1. A really big parasitic load. It will drain the battery in about two hours.
2. No warning/glow plugs lights when starting car.
3. Gas gauge and temp gauge don't work.
Lastly, does anybody have a picture with what sensors on the engine are which ones? The Bentley manual is good, but without knowing phsically where the sensors are, I am at a loss.
The car was not taken care of, and I am trying to get it back to full operational status.
Thanks in advance.
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#1
by
burn_your_money
on 26 Nov, 2007 10:07
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post a picture of your engine bay and I'll try and identify the sensors for you.
To find the parasitic load remove 1 fuse, put your amp meter in and find the reading. Once you find which one's drawing test each of the components on that circuit
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#2
by
Vincent Waldon
on 26 Nov, 2007 18:54
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Ah..... electrical gremlins on a VW.... who woulda thunk it ??!! ;-)
A parasitic load big enough to drain the battery in a couple of hours is a pretty big load... you'll need to ensure your ammeter can handle 10 amps at least, and I'd be inclined to start with the fuses of your bigger loads... but start with the stereo first (if you have one) since it is the most obvious to draw a load unnoticed... headlights stuck on are much more obvious for example !!
9 times out of 10 when both gauges on the cluster won't work it's the result of poor connections at the small voltage regulator they both share, or the regulator itself.... usually the former. The regulator is on the back of the cluster itself... I start by resoldering the socket to the circuit board and then the regulator to the socket... has *always* done the trick for me.
However you are also reporting no warning lights... so it could be a master ground to the cluster. Does anything work ?? Clock ?? Turn signals ?? High Beam indicator ? If all of this stuff is out it really really does sound like a grounding issue at the cluster itself... and that could take out the gauges as well.
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#3
by
red64chevelle
on 27 Nov, 2007 04:35
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Its pretty weird, for the last six months or so, the battery held its charge great. Its only been recently since the draw has started. I think it might have started when I replaced the Alternator. I will have to start there.
The Clock does function normally. The Fuel Gauge used to operate when all the warning lights did, but now it does not. The Temp Gauge has never operated since I bought the car.
I'll take a picture of the engine compartment today for the sensor locations.
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#4
by
clbanman
on 27 Nov, 2007 06:30
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If the problem started when you replaced the alternator, start there. Was it new, rebuilt, junkyard? Take it in to your local CT, Partsource or similar shop and have them test it. I had one years ago that had an internal issue that caused a similar problem. To prove this out, have your battery charged and disconnect the wiring to your alternator. If you can still start the car in two hours you've likely found the biggest culprit.
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#5
by
rabbit gti guy
on 27 Nov, 2007 06:36
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sorry to intrude...i dont have any help but i have a few of the exact same problems. what does the voltage regulator on the cluster look like? can i run a new external ground wire from the cluster?
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#6
by
Vincent Waldon
on 27 Nov, 2007 08:59
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If the problem started when you replaced the alternator, start there.
2X... a shorted diode would cause the alternator to act like a very large parasitic load (through the field windings).... and also impact the alternator's ability to recharge the battery.
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#7
by
red64chevelle
on 27 Nov, 2007 09:36
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I have a spare brush set/regulator. I'll take a look at that.
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#8
by
red64chevelle
on 27 Nov, 2007 18:45
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#9
by
burn_your_money
on 27 Nov, 2007 19:14
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Picture 2 shows the GP temp sending unit as well as the temp gauge sending unit. They aren't identical but you can mix them up and get away with it. Sometimes there is also another sender on the side of the head below the oil pressure sender. It is also on a coolant flange. Just make sure 2 of the 3 sensors are hooked up and you should be good to go
Picture #3 is the oil pressure sending unit in the head. There may or may not be another one on the top of the oil filter mounting flange.