Author Topic: Injection Pump gasketing (Read 6090 times)

Doug · « **on:** November 18, 2007, 02:08:27 pm »

Has anyone replaced the distributor housing gasket on the pump (1.6 TD) without removing the pump to the bench? Mine is leaking where the distributor housing meets the main pump body. It would be nice not to have to pull it completely out of the car. Any input would be welcome as in what to look for or short cuts. The other points that generally leak like the cold start and throttle shaft are still holding their own.

Vincent Waldon · « **Reply #1 on:** November 18, 2007, 02:24:52 pm »

It absolutely can be done, but in the immortal words of Elmer Fudd... "be vweery vweey cwareful"... if not done carefully pieces inside the pump will dislodge... not fatal but the pump will then need to come out for sure.

Follow Libbybapa's instructions on page 2 to the letter and you should be fine... many have tried and succeeded:

http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5311&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15

The key part, which several have glossed over to their peril, is to keep constant pressure on the cam plate while loosening the distributor housing... via a longer screw or shim and original screw in the hole that you access to set the timing. If the cam plate springs loose the rollers will drop down... and they are a pain to put back into position.

Doug · « **Reply #2 on:** November 18, 2007, 04:13:25 pm »

Thanks, Vincent! It is a really long thread but I read it all. It looks like some have had success and some have not. Are there any more recent takers who have won the prize for in car change out of this rubber sealing ring?

Vincent Waldon · « **Reply #3 on:** November 18, 2007, 09:59:44 pm »

Quote from: "Vincent Waldon"

The key part, which several have glossed over to their peril, is to keep constant pressure on the cam plate while loosening the distributor housing...

The other key part is to be very very clean... flush the pump really well with brake drum cleaner and compressed air and treat the procedure like surgery.... you'll be fine.

Worst case... the pump comes out anyway...

Vince

Ziptar · « **Reply #4 on:** November 19, 2007, 03:31:16 am »

Wait... I read that whole thread twice last month....

You DON'T have to remove the pump?? I thought it was all done on a bench...

I guess I'll go read it 4 more times.

Doug · « **Reply #5 on:** November 19, 2007, 03:59:17 am »

Thanks, Vince and Andrew, for your encouragement to give it a go. The centre bolt that holds the rotor in place, do you know if it is a 6 X 1mm or is it something really unusual? From reading the thread, am I also to assume that there is no need to time the pump with a dial guage following the successful transplant of the O ring? It is implied but not explicit.

Doug · « **Reply #6 on:** November 23, 2007, 05:00:33 am »

Just an update on the pump... changed out the O-ring with success using the above procedure. Started out using the suggested 1/4 turn but found it to be a little slow so used a couple of turns on each bolt out as well as a couple on the centre bolt. For the centre bolt I used a 8X1mm (metric fine) X 40mm long. It seemed just right to provide the amount of protrusion where my fingers could get an easy grip on it. At first I was concerned about the cleanliness having pressure washed and air blasted the assembly several times while pulling it apart. In retrospect though the inside of the pump is never exposed to the possibility of dirt if it is pulled to the point of just exposing the O ring. Although good to be clean it is not likely that any dirt will find its way into the pump. No matter what I did there was always a haze of rust on the exterior of the pump head. One final blast of air before assembly to clean the O ring surface is probably all you really need to do. Don't get me wrong, I'm not advocating tha you work in a pile of dirt!
Priming the pump meant disconnecting the fuel inlet hose, funneling fuel into it while tapping the pump with a screwdriver handle. It seemed to work taking in several ounces of fuel. Then cranking the pump/engine with the injector unions opened with the throttle wide open got the fuel there in less than a minute.

With the unions tightened down the motor started immediately settling in to its regular idle.

Thanks again to Andrew and Vince for your assistance on this repair.

Ziptar · « **Reply #7 on:** November 23, 2007, 05:18:52 am »

Just ordered a seal kit, looks like I am next... That is if I get the wiring in and get it running before the seals get here.

First time out replacing the seal and using new timing tools....

<---- Nervous..

Vincent Waldon · « **Reply #8 on:** November 23, 2007, 10:17:31 am »

Congrats Doug....

To me, replacing a seal on an injection pump is one of those "snatch the pebbles from my hand" thingies... kinda of a rite-of-passage for diesel owners, a bit of a secret handshake, and a hurtle that, if you have the courage to get over it, will mean nothing on a diesel will ever threaten you again !!!

Hmmmm.. maybe we do need a secret handshake that means "I laugh at injection pump seals"... why should the Stone Cutters have all the fun ??

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7shEA7PISM

Ziptar · « **Reply #9 on:** November 26, 2007, 11:41:32 am »

My seal Kit arrived today. I should get teh wiring finish and the dash back together today.

I'll go read that thread about 100 times tonight and try resealing my pump tomorrow (gulp!) I'll keep you posted.

Ziptar · « **Reply #10 on:** November 29, 2007, 04:48:45 am »

Did the seal Tuesday, followed the instructions in the other thread. test fired the engine last night, I didn't kill the pump and no leaks

I may have a small drip coming from the back of the pump about mid way along it or it's just from the mess I made priming it. I didn't run it for more than a minute because the radiator isn't in it yet.

I will get the car finished up this week and find out for sure but, the massive leak I had from the distributor block before is no more.

Doug · « **Reply #11 on:** November 29, 2007, 06:34:02 am »

Right on Zip! It wasn't that hard either like Andrew and Vincew said. I have noticed now that the throttle shaft seal is leaking but nothing like the big one on the back side of the distributor casting. It is going to have to wait for a bit.

Ziptar · « **Reply #12 on:** November 30, 2007, 03:10:37 am »

I started it again last night for a minute now that the mess dried up. Looks like my throttle shaft seal has a small drip too. Once I get the car all back together and buttoned up, I'll be buying new hoses and belts, I guess I'll change it when I do the timing belt so I can take the pump out.

Any trick to that one?

Doug · « **Reply #13 on:** November 30, 2007, 04:40:04 am »

I believe that the throttle shaft seal can be done without disturbing the pump. Looking at that mess of springs and stops on top of it though is a bit discouraging. Anyone have a tested way that is easy?