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#15
by
andybnwc
on 14 Nov, 2007 14:25
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jumped it today turns over but wont start now , last time this happened it was the fuel pump fuse but i cant remember which one it is so gonna search for it
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#16
by
andybnwc
on 15 Nov, 2007 10:09
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:x pissed off car wont start not even a cough , fuel is in the lines from fuel filter, glow plug indicator is working , tryed to bump it down a big hill still nothing.
Checked fuel pump fuse its fine but the cable has snapped should it still start without it , also only 1 cable onto pump and two going into plug see pics
?
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#17
by
saurkraut
on 15 Nov, 2007 11:32
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Thats the pump solinoid. It will NOT start with out 12 volts going to that terminal. 12 Volts allows fuel to flow. 0 volts stops fuel flow.
Getting mad at the car will serve you no purpose. If its fixed right it will run right. If its kluged togather, it won't run right, or perhaps not run at all.
Fix the wire, clean the front of the engine. Start it up and look at the top of the oil filter flange. It will either be the pressure switch or the turbo oil supply line. With that much oil sprayed on the engine, the leak should be obvious.
You should also check to see if the oil spray got into the timimg belt cover. If oil got on the belt, it will drastically shorten the belt life.
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#18
by
andybnwc
on 15 Nov, 2007 12:24
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ok i will fix that cable , also noticed there is a spare terminal on top of oil cooler is that where the other chopped cable should run too?
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#19
by
saurkraut
on 15 Nov, 2007 16:25
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That's probably the pressure switch, which is one of your potential high pressure leak points. The turbo oil supply line should be in the same vacinity.
Start it up and look in that area for your leak.
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#20
by
andybnwc
on 15 Nov, 2007 19:51
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ok thanks any ideas why the previous owner would disconect this?
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#21
by
Black Smokin' Diesel
on 15 Nov, 2007 20:20
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ok thanks any ideas why the previous owner would disconect this?
Same reason mine did. Low oil pressure when the engine is hot, throwing the oil light and buzzer.
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#22
by
andybnwc
on 16 Nov, 2007 13:07
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AA breakdown came today after the usuall checks came to checking the turbine wheel and its all wobbly and wont spin ie turbo broken after just 120 miles , i think this must of been a oil problem ie none getting to the turbo and hence all the oil spraying out of engine bay .Got to confront the mechanic who fit it to see whats gonna happen next!
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#23
by
jtanguay
on 16 Nov, 2007 13:48
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your fuel screw looks a bit odd. it does have the protective anti-tamper collar on it right??? i'm just curious.
it almost sounds like the turbo oil supply line has started leaking. a pinhole leak won't really damage the turbo, as the pressure is reduced anyway... unless there is no more oil being supplied (which will happen if you don't keep an eye on your oil level which is a MUST on ANY diesel unless brand new... and even then its a good idea just to keep an eye on it every once in a while)
how does the oil supply line look? really rusty? you might need to wipe parts of it off if there is too much oil.
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#24
by
andybnwc
on 17 Nov, 2007 14:23
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the fuel screw cover has been moved for making power gains although at the moment is standard run stuff in, oil feed is rusty but no holes or kinks in it. any other ideas before i replace the turbo again?
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#25
by
jtanguay
on 17 Nov, 2007 15:29
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looks like the fuel screw locknut is missing or is it just me? its probably just the angle.
maybe your oil drain line is somehow clogged? that would pool the oil in the turbo and help with its early demise and oil would start to spray out of the seals in the turbo into the intake and possibly exhaust. i've never really heard of that happening though.. must be super rare.
you should probably install an oil pressure gauge. maybe you're just getting low pressure? then you have a whole different type of problem...
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#26
by
andybnwc
on 18 Nov, 2007 19:02
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yes the lock nut is there still , do you think that the garage should of checked to see if the oil was circulating properly before releasing the car to me to blow the turbo again?
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#27
by
jtanguay
on 18 Nov, 2007 19:14
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yes the lock nut is there still , do you think that the garage should of checked to see if the oil was circulating properly before releasing the car to me to blow the turbo again?
if the oil light didn't come on they probably wouldn't have thought to check. most guys just change the broken part, and do not bother finding out why the part actually failed.
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#28
by
saurkraut
on 19 Nov, 2007 08:54
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I thought you stated in your first post that you used up all of you oil in 120 miles. To empty the oil pan in 120 miles is a freak'n chrisis! That is the root of your problem.
Have you determined where the oil is leaking from yet? I wouldn't put any new parts on that thing until you fixed the oil leak problem.
1.) Fill the pan with the proper amount of oil.
2.) Clean the front of the engine so there is no oil on it.
3.)Start the engine and look for the leak.
4.) Fix the leak.
5.) Put on new turbo.
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#29
by
andybnwc
on 19 Nov, 2007 11:15
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its never used oil like that till the turbo was broken the first time , i had to drive it 60 miles broken but never had the light on, or sprayed out just a small leak from the bottom of the crank case breather pipe thing. top of engine was spotless no garages seem to have a clue about these engines and i aint got time to work on it myself .
The engine will not start so i cant check to see where the oil is coming from as the turbo wont turn on its own . any ideas how to run this ie remove stuck wheel on turbo etc