Author Topic: Calibrating the injector pump (Read 3989 times)

rabfan · « **on:** November 08, 2007, 10:11:06 pm »

I have purchased a rebuild kit for my injector pump. I also bought a new 10mm injector pump rotor and head and a new feed pump.
I'm guessing after I replace and rebuild all this, the pump will need to be recalibrated.
How is this done? Can I build a test stand and do it my self?
Thanks,
RJ

Tintin · « **Reply #1 on:** November 09, 2007, 07:11:35 am »

For first, when you installed a new or different head&rotor on a pump, you need to adjust the "K" cote, with different shim btween the foot of the plunger and came plate, the most of the time is set at 3.7mm.

Without pump test bench, installed the pump on your engine adjust the idle and play with the fuel screw for WOT on road, too much black smoke is bad, just a little is fine.

Now, the most complicated adjustment begin, It's to adjust the internal pressure to provide a fine timing curve, a different pressure regulator provide different pressure curve.

rabfan · « **Reply #2 on:** November 09, 2007, 08:10:12 am »

Where is the pressure regulator located?
Are they available?
How do I know what pressure it is putting out?

Tintin · « **Reply #3 on:** November 09, 2007, 09:01:02 am »

Quote from: "rabfan"

How do I know what pressure it is putting out?

This is why I have write that it is the most difficult adjust, because without bench test, there are no way to monitor the pump pressure at low, mid, and WOT on the road, pump pressure is directly connected with the timing curve.

And why need to re-adjust the pressure...... when one put a bigger plunger on the pump, the plunger/came plate counter torque is bigger on the timing system, and the timing does not move as much as with a smaller plunger, in this case, you must up the internal pressure to counter the effect, It's complicated, because the counter torque with bigger plunger is not proportional at any RPM, and also affected by the load on the accelerator.

Your factory pump pressure with a bigger plunger is ok for the idle and mid range RPM or load, but at WOT acceleration and higher RPM, that need more pressure to act the timing.

These pump part is hard to find, that take some custom made on the regulator.

For first, begin to try with factory pressure, and if you notice that the power is flat starting from 3000rpm, PM me and I will give you more trick.

rabfan · « **Reply #4 on:** November 09, 2007, 09:21:23 am »

Thank you,
It may be a while as I still have to rebuild the engine. I am hoping to get to the pump soon.

westcoaster · « **Reply #5 on:** November 09, 2007, 05:35:14 pm »

So, I'm guessing this is one of the arguements as to why one would want to go with a Gills pump as opposed to cooking one up in your back yard...?

Edit: simply thinking it is all set up out of the gate as opposed to having to muck about with the tuning.

rabfan · « **Reply #6 on:** November 09, 2007, 07:04:01 pm »

That goes in place of the outlet valve to the injector line?
What kind of pressure are you looking for?

rallydiesel · « **Reply #7 on:** November 09, 2007, 08:24:59 pm »

What is the difference between this forum and the forum link libbybapa posted?

rallydiesel · « **Reply #8 on:** November 09, 2007, 08:49:48 pm »

Wowzers. That Hagar guy sure has the injection pump figured out. Is it true he inflates his tires to 100 psi?!?! I guess I have a whole lot of reading to do.

:shock:

rallydiesel · « **Reply #9 on:** November 09, 2007, 09:52:41 pm »

Is the pressure regulator you are talking about the valve thing next to the IN banjo bolt?

rabfan · « **Reply #10 on:** November 11, 2007, 08:25:06 am »

Thank you for the link ANdrew. That cleared things up nicely.
I'm guessing without a test bench I have to install the pump on the car and run it to check pressures. Which also means I'll need a tach to figure out RPM.......