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Ziptar's Eco-Carat Project by Ziptar on 14 Oct, 2007 12:45
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Ok, after a year of talking about it.... it's Go Time!!!
I spent yesterday degreasing the Eco and ripping out the soaking wet moldy interior, there was actually standing water and lots of rust under the moldy carpet.
Just as I was finishing up my buddy showed up with the 89 Carat in tow. Fresh out of almost 4 years storage in his garage.
So today I have begun removing all the gasser junk from the engine compartment, and pull the wiring harness. Next weekend I'll most likely pull the motor give the engine compartment a good cleaning and maybe even get the Eco motor out.
After that I have to start swapping in the CE2 TD wiring harness and figure out hooking up to the CE1 power options. After that swap the fuel tank and lines and finally drop the Eco in after I fix the leaky IP and do stuff like the timing belt, gaskets, seals, and etc.
This is going to be a daily driver so my only mods really are a GTD intercooler, 1.6 LDA, gutted cat, and light pump tweaks.
Beyond that I need to find a sunroof head liner, and do the suspension and brakes. It has "new" eibach lowering springs and Boge turbo gas shocks but, I don't like the look or the ride of lowered cars. And finally a good detailing. With any luch I'll be done by Christmas, maybe sooner work owes me buckets of time,maybe I'll take a week off and focus on the swap.
I think I might use the ASF Code Carat Transmission, seems like for highway use it's the way to go.
Code 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th R&P
AVX 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.75 4.25 Ecodiesel
ASF 3.45 1.94 1.37 1.03 0.75 3.67 Carat
With the Stock tire size of 185-60-14 the ASF Tranny looks to be 2848 RPM at 70 MPH, the AVX would run 3298 RPM. I just worry around town it might be tough, or maybe I need to keep the AVX trans with the lower 3rd and 4th and put the AVX 3.67 Final on it. Not sure yet. I'd just like to get it going for now, maybe swap that later.
I'll post Updates (and probably allot of questions) as things progress, for now i am off to remove more engine copartment stuff from the Carat. -
#1 by burn_your_money on 14 Oct, 2007 13:06
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Very nice, it's great to see this project taking another step forward
I think you should use the ASF box, I asked about it before on here and everyone seemed to like it.
That carat looks good, keep the pictures coming -
#2 by Quantum TD on 16 Oct, 2007 00:15
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If you don't use the AVX trans, and it's good, I'll take it.
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#3 by Ziptar on 29 Oct, 2007 19:50
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Progress Report:
Taking a much needed week off of work this week after 2 months of 60-80 hour work weeks.
Got the gasser out of the Carat today. A freind of mine has a hoist he is letting me borrow but, the engine removal was going so quick I didn't want to stop to go get it. I dropped the motor and tranny with a jack. I'll pull the TD and install it with the hoist though.
Tomorrow I pull the interior and the wiring harness. Have to clean the engine compartment, and start swapping in the TD wiring harness and join it to the Carat power stuff.
Tthe battery tray is a bit rusty so while it's all apart I ordered the $18.00 POR15 Starter Kit should be plenty for the tray and not bad for the price. At least I won't have to worry about it rusting anymore.
oh, yeah.. The hood isulation pad migrated it's way over to the Carat too.
and of course... PICS!!
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#4 by Ziptar on 05 Nov, 2007 04:41
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Not bad progress for the remainder of the week. I swapped the diesel fuel system, fuel tank, and exhaust in, degreased and pressure washed the engine compartment, pulled the interior and started swapping the CE2 diesel harness in place of the CE1 Digi harness. The Carat Power stuff is turning out to be easy to hook up. I'll work on the wiring nights this week and probably pull the TD engine this next weekend. Need to get the donor car out of the garage, it's getting really cluttered.
When swapping the fuel system over, I found that someone had completely removed the water separator, only the sensor was hanging and it was wrapped in electrical tape, I guess I know why my glow plug light always blinked now. I'll have to get another one.
Anyone have an opinion on which brake booster I should use?? Does it matter? I am leaning towards the diesel one at the moment, just seems like the right thing. I am swapping over the tilt column from the 1991 anyway so it'll be easy to do the booster too.
Also thinking while I have the interior apart, I should probably put a new heater core in just because I am there. I am also thinking about removing all the batting used for installation under the dash and replacing it with some sound deadning material? Good idea?
PICS!
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#5 by madmedix on 10 Nov, 2007 19:05
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My humble suggestions before you put that dash back together...
- sound-deadening material is always a good idea AFAIK; but I've discovered in the last couple of weeks that having all the fasteners (machine screws) present really help with the cold start rattles. I even put 1/8" foam tape around a instrument cluster I just got with a tach in it to prevent that really annoying plastic-on-plastic rubbing sound my last two high mileage diesels eventually get between the clear plastic and dash insert (I commute).
If you're going to put it on the firewall/footboard, might as well do the door interiors too. I got away with some surprisingly dense carpet underlayment given to me under the carpet to quiet down the noise coming from the road. Works way better than the stock fluff VW put under there. The commercial sound-deadener was frighteningly expensive to do the whole inside, let alone the doors/footboard area. (anybody know a good alternative? I've got a Golf that needs it)
- You might want to mount a wiring block (screw-type or spade connector style) within easy reach for the stuff you'll eventually install to be controlled by switches you're going to mount in the 6-pack area between the instruments and radio. That way you'll have 12v handy. I put in a combo of fused 12v always on & switched. I also ran a trailer 4-wire harness from the engine compartment through the radio antenna grommet to use for guage sending leads. Haven't put in the guages yet but when I do, I can just unplug 'em. Also mounted two on the inside of the center console: one for ground and one for power. Here I run the accessory plugs for the cell phone, PDA etc and don't need the ashtray open to get at the lighter socket....(used a MOLEX 9 pin connector for the days I want to remove the console for any reason).
Also, don't worry about putting in another water seperator under the passenger rear unless you really feel better with it in. I deleted mine this spring and no problems (FYI: VW never used them again in the MK3 or MK4). I just drain every few tankfulls from the bottom of the fuel filter, and there is very little water in there when I do. I just cut the wiring and plumbed the fuel line together with the anti-drainback valve and it's been good for just over 5700 miles.
Nice pictures!
Andy[/b] -
#6 by Ziptar on 11 Nov, 2007 08:43
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Thanks Andy,
I hadn't thought of adding electrical plumbing, good idea.
I had been doing some asking around on the Vortex last week about sound insulation and yesterday decided with everything out I should just do it. So out the column, pedal assembly, and HVAC box. Now the interior is truly bare.
I have been doing allot of reading about what to use. There is all kinds of stuff. Some of it is expensive. People have used everything from Dynamat which is $$$ to adhesive roofing material from Home Depot. I did a bunch of reading and being that I live in Florida where it hot, humid, and mold is a problem, I was more concerned about adhesion and water / mold resistance. I found a pretty good write up someone did about the different kinds and did some testing. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ Its a good read.
I also got a response from vwjettacoupe on the vortex in my Things to do while the interior is completely gutted?? he was insulating his Jetta also.
He used the RAAMat BXT that was found to be the "Best Value" in the showdown article.
He had good things to say about it and also pointed me to their Ensolite product that is a water / mildew resistant closed cell foam that can be used in place of Jute Padding, and is fairly inexpensive.
So, I think that's the route I am going to take, it means a short little detour $$$ and time wise to getting the Jetta on the road but, since I am also a commuter, it will be time and money well spent.
So for today, I'll finish POR15'ing the battery tray and a few small rust spots in the engine bay and start cleaning the left over jute and sticky stuff from the inside of the fire wall. If I have enough time, I'll prep the Eco for removal as well.
Next week, I borrow the engine hoist and I'll pull the Eco engine from the donor so I can get started on getting the pump out and resealing it and do the water pump oring, check the turbo, look for other deals to do etc.
I also really need to get the donor car out of the garage as I am really out of room. -
#7 by Vincent Waldon on 11 Nov, 2007 16:04
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2X on running lots of wires between the engine compartment and the dash area... much easier to loom 'em and seal 'em while the engine is out.
You could also add some oil pressure gauge tubing (like from the cheap kits NAPA sells) for an eventual boost gauge if you're feeling naughty.... or even thermocouple wire ?? Perfect time to tap the exhaust manifold pre-turbo ??!
My A3 looks like yours at the moment and because everything is so easy to get to and parts are so darn cheap from WorldPac I'm also:
- rebuilding the entire shift linkage
- replacing both flange seals, the main seal, throwout bearing, and the pushrod bushing and seal on the tranny.. then she gets a fresh fill of MTL.
- redoing all the big grounds
- replacing ball joints, worn suspension bushings, and repacking the CV joints
- spot-repairing and then painting rust... particularly due to battery acid
- relayed harness for the headlights... so easy to run with the rad out
The engine is getting a new clutch and pressure plate and the starter a new bushing,... again, trivial since the thing is in pieces.
Just some thoughts of stuff you can do while it's so so easy, in case you have time on your hands ;-)
Vince -
#8 by burn_your_money on 11 Nov, 2007 16:23
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Looks to be coming along nicely. I'm envious of your garage :shock:
Care to sell me your K14 if it's not in good shape or if you want to trade a T3 for big boost?
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#9 by Ziptar on 11 Nov, 2007 20:14
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Quote from: "Vincent Waldon"
I'm also:
- rebuilding the entire shift linkage
- replacing both flange seals, the main seal, throwout bearing, and the pushrod bushing and seal on the tranny.. then she gets a fresh fill of MTL.
- redoing all the big grounds
- replacing ball joints, worn suspension bushings, and repacking the CV joints
- spot-repairing and then painting rust... particularly due to battery acid
- relayed harness for the headlights... so easy to run with the rad out
The engine is getting a new clutch and pressure plate and the starter a new bushing,... again, trivial since the thing is in pieces.
Vince
Heh, Plan is to do alot of that too if I have the time and funds, clutch and linkage at the very least. The tranny seals and all seem good, probably just put in fresh Red Line and see how it goes. Suspension I may do later, the green car has a fairly new set of Boge Turbo gas shocks/struts but has Eibach lowering springs
mean while the white car has stock springs and the original struts, probably swap the springs onto the turbo gas struts at the very least, redo everything with new stuff once I get the TD swap and interior all squared away.
I did some spot rust treating in the engine compartment today, the battery tray in particular, it wasn't bad but, it had some acid induced rust on it. There were a few other small spots that got done as well. Actually those little cans of POR go a long way. I did spot treatment, battery tray and the engine cross member and still have just under a 1/2 a can left. I think I'll use it on the Fuse box bracket, VW just primed them all it looks like, or was that so they grounded?? I'd hate to POR15 it and find I have lost the grounds for most of the whole car. :shock:
Before....
After a wire brushing, some sanding, and the POR15 Treatment.
Thanks Tyler, it's coming along bit by bit. The K14 seemed fine when I ran the donor and drove it, I'll give it a good once over once the engine is out, if it's Iffy I'll probably rebuild it. I don't have a big turbo and lots of boost in mind. -
#10 by burn_your_money on 11 Nov, 2007 22:23
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Shucks
That POR15 seems to have done a good job. I can't wait to get going on my car. I think paint is first on the list once it's on the road -
#11 by Ziptar on 12 Nov, 2007 06:41
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It did a really nice job actually, I am impressed. It feels like its pretty durable, if it wears like they claim, I'll be happy.
Forgot.. the fully gutted interior.... :shock:
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#12 by Ziptar on 19 Nov, 2007 06:06
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I pulled the TD out of the Eco and swapped the ASF transmission onto it and got it all dropped into the Carat this weekend. It's just setting on the mounts at this point I haven't started bolting everything up.
I rolled whats left of the Eco body out into the driveway for my neighbors to enjoy, junk yard isn't picking it up until after Thanksgiving.
QUESTIONS:
The Eco's front engine cross member is slightly different, it has two small indentations for tabs that hold a plastic cowl that directs air to the radiator. Is that a diesel thing and really needed or just a big bumper thing?
The toilet bowl and Cat. When I removed it from the Eco I did from underneath with the engine still in it and it took allot of wiggling and finagling to get the flange past the firewall and the rack. I tried it put it in from the engine compartment before I dropped the engine in yesterday and there is no way the Cat will get past the rack and firewall.
Whats the trick to get the toilet bowl in?
The Clutch, Pressure plate, and flywheel looks almost new out of the box so I figured I'd just go with it. The turbo looks to be great shape with 0 wiggle on the shaft.
I am ordering a pump seal kit, timing belt, tensioner, belts, and all the hoses that could have had diesel fuel puked on them by the leaking pump.
I was going to leave the engine out until I swapped all that because I thought it would be easier but, I think it'll be better to do it in the car and I didn't want the weight of the engine and tranny pulling in the head bolts all that time (hanging from hoist). -
#13 by Ziptar on 02 Dec, 2007 09:01
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Sorry no updates in a while been busy! I pretty much have been spending every available moment on the Jetta for the last week because I really wanted to get it going. New battery,I resealed the pump, started buttoning up every last detail, nut, bolt, etc. Lots of updates.
Yesterday at about 7:30pm she left the garage under her own power for the first time!
She's a Driver!!!
It drives great!, noisy as heck because I didn't put the interior in yet., but it goes and goes well. I ran half a can of SeaFoam through the crank case for about an hour as it seems like it has a ticky lifter to me. I'll try and post a video later and you guys can tell me, maybe I am just too used to the TDI. Engine was noticeably quieter after I drained the cheap "Supratech" oil and SeaFoam and pt in some Mobil1 TD Truck 5-40 (after an hour of wrestling with the cheapie Fram Filter, I'll never do that again, OEM Only.). The Carat power stuff turned out to be a snap to hook up, the power windows, locks, mirrors all work great.
The trouble light in the picture was there to bake some JB Weld all night to cure. The 89 used the old style coolant reservoir and the bracket was welded to the strut tower, it is much wider and sits higher. It had a CE1 electrical connector, since I wanted to not cut the CE2 harness I am attempting to JB weld the studs for the late style reservoir and bracket in it's place.
It should work, the studs are surface welded on at the factory and twisted off pretty easily with vice grips. If it doesn't I guess I am drilling holes
I did some checking around about batteries before I bought one. I didn't want a generic Walmart or Autozone cheapie. It turns out a Company called Douglas Battery a division of Exide has the contract with Varta to produce new OEM replacement batteries here in the U.S. for BMW, Mercedes, Audi and VW. They are also sold under the brand name "Werker" through Batteries Plus. The Group 41 Battery for the Jetta is a perfect fit and has the proper venting so hopefully battery acid won't slop all over my newly POR-15'd battery tray. At $89.99 the price is decent too only $10-$20 more that Generics.
Oh and last week a care package arrived for me from a distant land courtesy MontanaGTD.
I'll need to dig up a 1.6LDA or a pump soon and get it installed along with the Intercooler. Swapping the ASF code transmission in was a good call, at 60 MPH I am pulling around 2250 RPM and at 70 it's about 2500 RPM. 1st and 2nd gear though are slow, I definitely need more oomph, not allot, I think the Eco pump with an LDA should be fine, maybe if I save my pennies and can pay Giles to give it his special lovin' that would be enough. I am also going to look and see if I can bend or fab up the A/C line so I can use all of the GTD IC Shrouding.
I also changed my insulation / sound deadening strategy. I have been doing a bunch more reading about it on car audio forums. I read a really lengthy thread about sound deadening vs. sound quality. Basically the acoustic mat adds mass and improves sound quality but, the padding is what adds sound deadening. I also came across a couple of threads about a $6.47 closed cell camping mat that Walmart sells and, apparently it's made of the same stuff the audio places sell for allot more. I picked up 4 rolls and am doing a $27 insulation and padding experiment.
I have used one roll already under the dash and in front of the A/C box. The thickness is about right and didn't notice much rattling and squeaking from the dash last night but it's hard to tell at this point. Without the interior or so much as door seals in it at this point, it's really hard to tell.
I'll post more when it's done. Today's plan is to get the interior in give her a wash and a good cleaning.
I have a slow drip from the throttle shaft to still to deal with and also I need to order up belts, timing parts, valve cover gasket, etc and do those. There will be some detail stuff for the body and interior as well (headliner) so I'll be doing stuff for a while but, the major stuff is done and I can drive it
I had also planned on replacing struts, I was worried the the lowered Eibach springs and turbo gas struts would ride to harshly but, so far it seems ok. I need to drive it more I guess.
I'll see if I can get some driving videos up later. -
#14 by burn_your_money on 02 Dec, 2007 11:18
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Very exciting news