Author Topic: IDI n00b checking in...  (Read 2623 times)

October 04, 2007, 07:00:15 am

windex

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IDI n00b checking in...
« on: October 04, 2007, 07:00:15 am »
Hey all,

   JUst obtained a 96 golf 1.9l TD, previously thought that all VW diesels were "TDi" - thanks to you guys, I now know better.

I have spent the last week on and off reading about the engine, and now know that I have a non-wobbling crank sprocket, and a KO3 turbo with a reasonable amount of shaft play.

I bought this little beast with an unknown number of kilometers (odo shows 25000) but the engine starts fine every morning and idles smooth - albeit a bit high (1050 rpm).  The idle stop screw is siezed, so I am treating it to a bath of penetrant every other day in the hopes of freeing it up.

I was a little miffed to find that the speedo is high by about 10% with the stock 185-60r14s and bit more reasonable 5-6% with 195-60r14's m- as compared to a gps enabled phone on the dash.  I will likely be replacing them with 205's to gain the slightly higher overall ratio for greater economy and a more accurate speedo.  It looks like the engine will be turning about 2600-2700 rpm with those size tires at 100kph, still a bit high for a diesel IMHO...

One thing (aside from numerous trim maladies - non functioning door handles, missing dome light, inop horn and washer pump etc...) is that the car seems to need engine mounts in the worst way - it vibrates significantly in the morning and at idle.  Of the three mounts, are any of them more prone to failure?  I have had a look at all of them, but can't determine if any of them is worse than the others - fortunately they seem relatively inexpensive at about $45 each CDN (what is that? like $60 USD :-)?

As well, reverse gear works just fine but "warbles" when moving backward - as if the reverse idler is very worn or about to fall off - I guess I am relegated to yanking the transmission at some point.

I have checked the all-important timing belt, and while it is not frayed, it looks worn enough to need replacement shortly - I have a new one and a new crank pulley bolt, and I'm hoping the replacement goes smoothly and I loctite the hell out of the bolt and torque to spec (66ft-lbs +90 deg right?) -Who knows-I might get lucky and find that the TDi crank mod has already been done (crosses fingers).

Any other major issues that should be addressed?

Reply #1October 04, 2007, 08:11:54 am

windex

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« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2007, 08:11:54 am »
Quote from: "libbybapa"
I'd replace the injector nozzles.

Andrew


Ok... is this for a smoother idle, better fuel economy, more power - all of the above?

I have seen a few posts that say SD 261's will work - are there any others out there that work better?

anyone have a source up in here in Canuckistan?

Reply #2October 12, 2007, 05:52:32 am

madmedix

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« Reply #2 on: October 12, 2007, 05:52:32 am »
I don't know about "performance" parts other than Giles for IP's up here, but I use this guy: http://www.bestpricecarparts.com/ for pretty much everything. He carries Sachs/Bosch etc. and you don't feel like you've donated 4 units of blood in one sitting (read: stealership) after paying for the parts  :o  

There's a cut-off time of 1400hrs for same-day shipping, but I've ordered after that and they've still shown up the next day. Handy.

Cheers,
Andy
'90 TD Jetta

Reply #3October 12, 2007, 09:12:20 am

burn_your_money

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« Reply #3 on: October 12, 2007, 09:12:20 am »
Usually if one mount goes they all need to be changed because the other 2 mounts will have a lot more movement in them because of the third broken one. Just do them all (good luck)
Tyler

Reply #4October 14, 2007, 03:47:51 pm

windex

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« Reply #4 on: October 14, 2007, 03:47:51 pm »
Thanks for the advice everyone...


   I have obtained some of the missing trim from "The source for VW" (around finch and weston here in the GTA) - interesting bloke that runs the place - ecentric comes close...

I also obtained the three mounts and a bunch of other needed items from mikes bug barn - I will set about replacing all three sometime this week.  I will likely do a pre-emptive timing belt at the same time.  I have a new crank sprocket, belt and crank bolt.  So far the pulley doesn't wobble - maybe I got lucky and the TDi mod has already been done. :wink:

<--- crosses fingers

I post with updates.

Reply #5October 19, 2007, 06:19:19 am

windex

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« Reply #5 on: October 19, 2007, 06:19:19 am »
Update:  

All three engine mounts are in!  

There is a big difference in NVH at idle, but not quite as much as I had hoped.

Interestingly, the mount I thought would be the worst was the easiest - the passsenger side rear.  By far the worst was the transmission mount - left rear.  I had to drop the subframe to squeeze that one in.  

For $150 for all three mounts, I have to say I'm happy.

Timing belt, sprocket and t/belt tensioner are this weekend...

Reply #6October 19, 2007, 10:52:00 am

jtanguay

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« Reply #6 on: October 19, 2007, 10:52:00 am »
weird bucking in reverse is usually the front mount.  the most prone mount *should* be the rear engine mount since it takes most of the forward thrust  (lots of yanking on that mount if you drive it rough)

switch over to a clutched alternator pulley.  the main reason that the crank pulley goes is because when you go from say 3500-4000 rpm to 900 rpm or so, all the spinning energy stored by the alternator gets then transfered to back to the crank.  over time it can lead to the crank failure.  

what the one way clutched pulley does, is allow the alternator to spin itself at a higher rpm than the engine, so that it can safely spin itself down.

not sure where to get one, but i do need one for my TDI engine that i'm building up.  if anyone knows a part number or a place to get them, let us know! :)


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