injector trouble

[gropar]

My mechanic just put in my freshly rebuilt fuel pump and brand new injectors.

Went to pick up the car and after 40km, it smeld fuel, and STOP WORKING!

I will start if I old the pedal down. I can keep around 1000rpm if I am delicate, can go up 4000+. But if I release the pedal, it stops.

Injector #2 is leaking along the threads.

For now, the car is back at the garage (towing), but I am hasty and would like to have your opinion on this :

Do you think it is 1° bad worksmanship (injector not tighted properly); 2° faulty injector; or 3° faulty fuel pump?

Let's say choice no. 1 would please me the most and that I am pretty affraid that it could be no.3 ...

(After a two weeks wait and over 1000$ spent, I think I'm about to cry now.)

[gropar]

Well : got my answer...

Seems like some sort of stopper fell of (or broke) wich causes the throttle shaft do cut fuel supply when I release the gas pedal.

After 60km -- half of wich on a towing truck -- the pump shall be removed (again), repaired (again) and reinstaled (again).

I will see that this second visit to the garage and the tow truck fees are to be paid by the injection shop. They always seemed to be nice and honnest people : I'm about to confirm this impression.

[Norm]

If it's poor workmanship, then the mechanic/garage should accept some responsibiliity or risk getting a bad reputation and slowing ruin it's business/clientel..   The is also a catch 22 scenario where a mechanic gives you a cheap estimate trying to do you a favor... but it may not allow for doing a professional job..  more like a patch job..  This often backfires on the garage cause if it doesn't hold you will immediately forget that he/she tried to save you money and be pissed off and be of the opinion that the garage did shoddy work meanwhile you did not pay for a  1st class job to start with...   In your case, you may have indeed paid for a 1st class pro job and received less than pro work?

I'm not saying your mechanic did a bad job or patch work..  If he's at fault he should cover the required fix to get you running again...  If it requires something that he didn't quote you on like ... I.E. fuel lines, well then you will probably have to cover the cost for those.   This is a good example of where it's a difficut position for the mechanic because ... as a service person, if you quote on everything that "may need" to be changed, you will often scare your clients away.. They think your a crook..   If you don't and the parts are required afterwards, then you look like a bad mechanic..  

Then there mechanics who have yet to find their calling..   :?

Just my two cents.

[gropar]

I see what you meen.

But :

this was a FULL rebuilt, wich should bring the pump to a brand new state. The patch work I asked for and payed for this summer when I asked for a simple seal change on that same pump. That ws MY mistake.

The job is garanteed for one full year. About that I am not woried. But since The thing did not hold for more than 30km, I expect more than the revision of the rebuilt itself, but also to be refunded for the other expenses (tow truck and garage). After 8 months, I don't say. But after 30kms...

Of course, there also is more trouble for wich I wont ask for compensation : time waisted to get the car back to the garage, time to carry the pump from garage to injection shop, then back again, time to get another car (wich someone is nice enough to lend us) to be able to go to work, etc...

[fspGTD]

If the governor springs just aren't hooked up right, you could save some labor by removing the governor lid and fixing it with the pump installed on the car.  But if you've got someone else on the line for paying for the fix, I guess it's up to them on how complicated they want to make it - if they want to remove the pump, that's their choice, huh.

A bosch-authorized pump rebuild shop is supposed to test the pumps they rebuild by the way, on a very specilized diesel pump flow machine (not to mention calibrate them also, using this machine).  If the governor spring in your pump wasn't hooked up, it is obvious that it this step was enitrely skipped.

Good luck.

[gropar]

A bosch-authorized pump rebuild shop is supposed to test the pumps they rebuild by the way, on a very specilized diesel pump flow machine (not to mention calibrate them also, using this machine).

And that's just what they did (I saw my pump hooked-up to that machine), and the pump ran well in the shop, during my mechanic's road test and while my father brought the car to me. Then : nada.

It may be bad worksmanship, but not sheer stupidity -- at least.

[chrissev]

Somebody might have overtightened injectors in your head at some time.  This can distort the mating surface and cause injector leakage.

[gropar]

UPDATE :

The pump is back in and seems to work fine. The engine, at first was not as performant as before, but since I turned a few screws (a little more fueling), smoke is, also is acceleration.  

Injector no.3 does not leak since I ask my mecanic to solve the problem.

Nice.

The engines now produces loud clacking noise, but I figure it was to be expected with brand new injectors amd strong springs.  :?:

New problem though : while working on the pump I notice a stang spring-like noise when knocking on it with my tools (just to touch the pump head or body, or even the metal injection lines with my small 10mm key would produce the sound...).

Everything looks in good working order, yet this strange phenomenon intrigues me.