What bolts do I loosen to adjust injection pump timing? - FAQ/Tech Tips/Please Read First - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• What bolts do I loosen to adjust injection pump timing? by burn_your_money on 25 Sep, 2007 22:03
• Having problems figuring out how to move your pump to adjust your timing?
  
  These are the 4 bolt locations that you need to loosen (DO NOT remove the bolts all the way)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Personally on my 1.6 NA and 1.6 TD engines I set the timing to 1.00mm but other people will tell you otherwise
  
  please note, this does not apply to later AAZ engines with the split pulley unless you are removing the pump
• #1 by Benjamin on 26 Sep, 2007 09:03
• i also prefer timing between 1,05 and 0,95mm.
  
  to adjust the static timing:
  
  
  Unbolt the bolt in the midlle of the 4exits to the injectors. (sometimes there flaots diesel out when the bolt comes out)
  the tool must be installed instaed of the bolt in the head from the IP.
  
  dont start the engine on when this tool is installed
  
  Do install the tool in the IP,
  bring the 1cilinder to the highest position, now turn the crank backwards and look to the gauge and when it instantly go to the other direction, stop turning. Set the gauge to zero. now turn the crank forwards till the 1st cilinder is in the highest position. now you can play with your IP to set the static timing to 1,00 (for example).
  
  
  The higher the tool reads, the earlier the injection timing is, to early timing will make very very high pressure on the cilinder and you will become an engine failure, infact its possible to have a broken rod!
  
  after you did timed the static timing to 1mm (+-0,05mm) you need to listen to the engine, its normal it have more dieselknock, but it may not sound to much like a metal piece in your cilinders, thats to much, this rule is also for guys who do play with dynamic timing, btw you also do that when you touch screws for the dieselquantity.
  
  Greetz, Benjamin
• #2 by James8485 on 18 Apr, 2010 10:29
• thanks it does
• #3 by xxkoadyxx on 20 Apr, 2010 07:13
• What does timing the pump do? why do it?
• #4 by burn_your_money on 20 Apr, 2010 07:51
• If you are familiar with gas cars consider the pump to be the distributor and you are adjusting when the "spark" happens.
• #5 by vako on 01 Apr, 2014 11:59
• I have one question to aaz car owners who have cold start lever. Shoul the car start without misfingi in the morning when outside temperature is more that +5-10 celsius. My car used to misfire a lot without cold start lever out and then after advanceing the ip timing (almost 7-8 milimetres acoording to the mark i made next to at the mounting bolt) it runs almost without misfiring in the morning but with up  above the idle and untill 2500-2800 rpsm it has light "marble clatter" , above that revs it quietens down... I think thath static timing is still retarded and internal pressure is a bit high. I would apriciate yout opinion about this and also if you could tell me how your car behaves     after advancing the pump i have got more power and it consumes less fuel
• #6 by vako on 01 Apr, 2014 13:23
• http://youtu.be/Y9vewqseSuw
• #7 by ORCoaster on 01 Apr, 2014 21:41
• Sounds way to advanced.  7-8 mm on mounting bracket marks?  So at low RPM it is clacking and at higher RPMs it is maxed out and about right or compensation happening.  Back the pump back 4 mm and see what happens.  Timing changes on these pumps happens with pencil line width change not MM. 
• #8 by 745 turbogreasel on 01 Apr, 2014 23:35
• This thread seems like it should have some mention of  loosening the injector pipes slightly  before adjusting pump angle,  You don't want to keep them in a twist, or sometimes they snap after awhile.
• #9 by vako on 02 Apr, 2014 03:14
• Yeas i know that it should be advanced very presicely, but that was the point where car started to idle without misfiring on cold engine, without cold start lever out. Otherwoise it woudt misfire fot at least 1 minute after cold start.     Shoult it be like that? Engine is freshly rebuilt and compression is very good (starts without glow plugs on the first rev almost in every situation)
• #10 by ORCoaster on 02 Apr, 2014 21:25
• Sounding more like a bad injector then if good starting but misfire on idle. 
• #11 by vako on 07 Apr, 2014 13:24
• all injectors are checked, they open at right pressure and do not leak.
  
  i have a question about bad valve lifters causing the engine tu buck without boost at mid revs, i will post it in idi section in my thread