...how in the world do I get the cold start lever to work again :lol: Fuel screw is in as much as my idle will allow (any more and I won't be able to get a decent idle speed). There's no adjustment left on the idle screw on top of the pump and next to none on the cold start adjust screws. Now I can't pull the cold start lever more than one inch and it does nothing. I adjusted the cable and played with both screws on the back of the pump but it didn't do squat.
I also played with the max RPM screw to raise it to 5600 instead of 5250 and adjusted the throttle cable. As a result , power cuts off at 4500 instead of 4000. After all these adjustements, I got quite a bit more power but there's something better: SMOKE!!! And a ***load of it. Funny thing is that the powerband changed quite a bit and most of the power is now found in the first half of pedal travel, the second half is just smoke with no significant added power. Before that all my power would be with the pedal to the floor with max power above 3000 cutting out at 4000. Now power builds up sooner at 2500 and cuts out at 4500.
What does this mean?
I've got massive amounts of smoke up top and smoke means potential power. All I need to do is hook up a boost gauge and a manual boost controller and take advantage of that.
Top speed however didn't change at all and is still a sucky 140kph. I think the main bottleneck is the transmission and drag. Hopefully the added boost will be able to overcome drag.
Mods to the engine:
-Mercedes 240TD injectors
-tweaked LDA
-upped fuel
-port matched intake and exhaust manifolds
-timing advance mod
-rebuilt K24
-1.9TD headgasket
Mods to come soon
-MBC
-boost gauge
-custom 2.5" or 3" downpipe (if budget allows)
Mods to come later
-ported 1.9TD head
-intercooler (already got a blackstone all aluminum unit)
-EGT, oil temp, oil pressure gauges
-water injection
-turbo timer
-governor mod
-other stuff I forget
Pics of the TD for good measure


