possible solution for my overheating issue? please read..

[mk2vr6]

Ever since I bought this car about 1 year ago with 163,000kms on it, the fan has never worked on its own.  I have to turn the A/C on when the temp gauge starts to rise to get them back down to normal, and it has never run right on the middle temp hash mark either.  Always just slightly over.  Also, the coolant light has come on  but I always have enough coolant...  or so I thought.

Yesterday I was swapping a motor mount and tightening my alternator belt.  While I was there I was messing around with the fan plugs, the coolant sensor, etc.  I decided to check out my coolant level, like I have before, just to make sure that wasnt the problem.  For whatever reason, I decided to put my finger down inside the bottle this time, which I never have before, and there was oil in it.  It appeared to be a good amount as well.

I read a couple posts on here and people say that it could be the oil cooler or the headgasket.  Now, I am really hoping its the oil cooler...  Because I dont have the budget or the means to be fixing a headgasket at the moment.  However, the car only has 183,000kms on it, all original.  It's a 1992.  I've owned a 390k 1.6 N.A. diesel that I never needed to replace the headgasket.  I've owned 250k+ 1.8L 8v's and never had to touch a headgasket..

So are there any tell-tale signs or things I can check to decide if its the headgasket or not?

I'm assuming that would explain my issue with the car running a little hot, however, I've never had any problem with it and it still seems to run 100% fine.  I'm hoping there could be some simpler (and cheaper!) explanation.

Also, if its the headgasket, am I looking at a $1000 repair job?
thanks.

[somolovitch3]

Not at all.................

You will be the one tearing down the engine, no?

Head gaskets run maybe 75 USD from dealer, new head bolts are like 25 from AutoZone, valve cover gaskets are 5~6 for the cork ones...............

Looks like 110 to 150 for the parts.............plus time and energy to do it.

I was quoted 250 to do my valve seals ....so 1000 is a bit high. (The price was from when I pulled the truck in to shop untill I drove it out again.)

Unfortunitly oil in coolent usually means head gasket....

best of luck

[mk2vr6]

I'd probably need to take it to a shop, as I have an 8 hour round trip coming this friday.

[jtanguay]

i had my oil cooler go on me.. it seemed like the HG was gone.  problems only surfaced when the motor got really hot.  i suggest buying one of those tools for those annoying little ring clips... search for ring clip pliers on ebay (i think that is what they're called)

i hope it is your oil cooler.  easy fix without a/c, bugger with (unless you want to disconnect your lines, or they're already disconnected)

i think the oil cooler nut is 27mm.  drain oil and coolant.  pull hoses from oil cooler, take off, put new one on, hook up hoses, install a new mann/bosch oil filter, put some oil in, and coolant.  supposedly it is a good idea to flush with a t-stat on these motors.  so get er done!  once she's all flushed (as per bottled instructions)  drain it, and fill up with coolant.

if you have some special tools you can test the oil cooler.  i just decided to tear into mine hoping that was my problem.  i guess a hand vacuum pump would work.  block off one coolant passage, and pull vacuum on the other.  pull as much vacuum as you can get and let it sit for a good half hour or so.

i was going to use www.steelseal.com if it wasn't my oil cooler, as i didn't have much experience or time, or money to dump into the old lump of a box.  you really don't know what to expect when pulling a head.  except one thing: expect anything!  

tools you need: 12mm 12pt tool for head bolts, lots of cleaning supplies.  (make sure not to drop things in any of the passages) a good set of tools, a torque wrench, timing tools, a good machine shop to check the head for you.  if you know someone who's changed a head before, they could definitely help out!  theres probably way more too.

it isn't really as simple as unbolting the head and throwing on a new gasket & bolts.  but that and getting it resurfaced, pressure tested, and checked out is definitely how to do it properly.

good luck!

[burn_your_money]

I don't ever do a headgasket "properly". I figure if it worked before it should work now. I just clean off the head and block with sandpaper and WD-40, then I check them with a straight edge to make sure they aren't warped. If they are warped stop there because you'll be doing another one within 100 miles.

New gasket, new bolts, timing belt and tensioner and you're back on the road.

It will take probably 8 hours the first time, possibly more if you have AC. Setting the timing for the first time is a steep learning curve.