Author Topic: brake bleeder screw (Read 8769 times)

jtanguay · « **on:** August 13, 2007, 07:15:07 pm »

well i broke it :oops: still closed though so i can at least drive it around. anyone know a cheap source for these things??? dealer only item???

burn_your_money · « **Reply #1 on:** August 13, 2007, 08:13:09 pm »

did you try crappy tire or any of those shoe box outlets?

clbanman · « **Reply #2 on:** August 14, 2007, 06:39:50 am »

Any of your local jobbers should carry a kit that has a seat and bleeder. It is intended to fix a problem with the seat being damaged, which may very well happen before you can get the old one out. You have to drill oversized, tap and install the seat. I've only ever done one, and found out after the fact that a rebuilt caliper would have been cheaper by the time I bought drill bits, tap and spent the time and frustration. BTW, the rebuilt with warranty was cheaper than junkyard prices.

jtanguay · « **Reply #3 on:** August 14, 2007, 08:30:38 am »

well i was hoping to buy some bleeder screws and change them all around... changing calipers and rear drums would be $$$ i'll try crappy tire

actually i've found this: (the bleeder screw sticking out is what i broke...)

and i think mine on my car is leaking anyways, because when i took the tire off it had a nice wet spot on it. so good time to change both sides.

i'm going to put some anti seize on the threads to avoid this happening in the future.[/img]

clbanman · « **Reply #4 on:** August 14, 2007, 11:14:26 am »

I use teflon tape on the threads on all my bleeder screws. It helps seal against air leakage past the threads when vacuum bleeding from the screws as well as preventing corrosion.

Doug · « **Reply #5 on:** August 14, 2007, 11:30:04 am »

I think that they are 6 X 1mm and available at Carquest, cheap. Run a drill, say about 7/32, into the old bleeder and with any luck you will tear it out and still have the original threads to play with. Bottom the drill lightly in the caliper or cylinder to clean up the mating surface. Anti seize sometimes works but the best thing is to break them open about once a year at the least.

saurkraut · « **Reply #6 on:** August 14, 2007, 12:55:29 pm »

I've always antiseized, but I really like the teflon tape idea!

jtanguay · « **Reply #7 on:** August 14, 2007, 03:16:47 pm »

hmmm teflon tape... good idea! i'm definitely changing the one side (only $16 each for the wheel cylinder) because i'm sure that is the culprit for my leak, but the other side i will try some lube & a torch.

does teflon tape withstand the high heat though??

bigblockchev · « **Reply #8 on:** August 15, 2007, 04:39:32 pm »

Teflon is good for high heat at least of the kind found in brake cylinders. I have seen a really cool tool to remove the bleeder screws. It is a 6 point socket which fits in your air chisel has wrench flats on it so you can get a good torque on the screw with an open end wrench, while hammering it with the air chisel. I can't remember where I saw it but if anyone knows please post. It appeared to be the ultimate in removal tools. Cheers Dan

commuter boy · « **Reply #9 on:** August 15, 2007, 04:57:48 pm »

Core it out instead of fixing it. If it's that corroded, the insides and the seals won't be much better.

jtanguay · « **Reply #10 on:** August 16, 2007, 04:42:50 am »

Quote from: "commuter boy"

Core it out instead of fixing it. If it's that corroded, the insides and the seals won't be much better.

i'm definitely changing both wheel cylinders. they're cheap enough that i don't mind doing it...

i was hoping to bleed the brakes this summer, but didn't expect this much of a surprise :roll:

i can't wait to change the calipers

they are way more $$$!!!!

burn_your_money · « **Reply #11 on:** August 16, 2007, 06:57:04 am »

PB them for a few days before hand

jtanguay · « **Reply #12 on:** August 17, 2007, 08:22:07 pm »

I just bought the 320 pc socket set from mastercraft for on sale for $250. reg $699. I needed a good set, but princess auto has a comparable set with only 220 pc (no 12 pt sockets) for around $150 AND it comes in its own carrying case which is nice.. oh well i'll stick with the mastercraft.

the kit had a nice deep 6 pt 7mm socket that fit snugly on the bleeder screw... i seriously thought i had it coming out but i should have known better from what everyone says about those bleeder screws :roll:

i'm now considering changing the rear shoes too since i just bought the brake tool kit from princess auto on sale for $30. i bought it to do the brakes on my sisters PT cruiser.

jtanguay · « **Reply #13 on:** August 28, 2007, 08:37:49 am »

man this sucks... i managed to get the leaky wheel cylinder out (yay) but the other side is in there really good. I've managed to get one of the allen bolts out, but the other just rounded

even the hydraulic fitting isn't playing nice!!!

i might just leave it since it isn't leaking, and change it later when i get some new bolts.

i'm thinking of just grinding off the hydraulic fitting and getting a new one. or maybe i'll just heat the hell out of the wheel cylinder and use lots of lube... hmmm!

any advice?

Mark(The Miser)UK · « **Reply #14 on:** August 28, 2007, 01:57:44 pm »

Quote from: "jtanguay"

man this sucks... i managed to get the leaky wheel cylinder out (yay) but the other side is in there really good. I've managed to get one of the allen bolts out, but the other just rounded even the hydraulic fitting isn't playing nice!!!

i might just leave it since it isn't leaking, and change it later when i get some new bolts.

i'm thinking of just grinding off the hydraulic fitting and getting a new one. or maybe i'll just heat the hell out of the wheel cylinder and use lots of lube... hmmm!

any advice?

Hammer in a Torx key...

Author Topic: brake bleeder screw (Read 8769 times)

Doug