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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: monst on October 03, 2006, 09:44:40 am
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Me again,
I was wondering.... Why go synthetic?..
on motor oil.....(particularly AMSOIL).
I was gonna run 10W 30.. afraid to
go too thin (5-30).... 140K on 91 Jetta 1.6l(NA).
It appears that she is tight.... not leaking
as far as I know.... Cleaned her up and
she is remaining clean and fixed the know leaks.
I had heard that
(well this could just be old info)
that it is better to not go from regular oil to synthetic....
another note: I had the valve cover off... motor is
very clean........
thanks monst :?:
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i would never go with 10w30 unless it was an emergency and the temps were around -25 or so, and it was a blend. 5w30 is out of the question.
go with a good synthetic 15w40. I have even considered going with 20w50 for the hot summers. Don't think my car would need it though.
if you go with dino oil, use shell rotella T. if you go synthetic, any of them should do, but obviously some are better than others.
I would recommend synthetic for sure. Better mileage, turbo spool up, and less worry about having to let the turbo cool down so much (synthetic does not coke as bad as dino) and you can rest assured that on cold days the oil will flow to where it is needed quite rapidly, since synthetics have lower cold pour temps. Add in the fact that there are better detergents, and TBN number, you can extend oil change intervals to around 10'000km (i'd say that is max on a diesel, since the dirty soot needs to be cleaned)
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I run 0W40 full synthetic in both my 1.6D and my TDI with no problem whatsoever.
10000km oil change?
Way too early.
I do mine every 20 000 with good feedback from oil analysis.
If the oil is good after 20 000 km with the TDI (which has EGR and Turbo), it will be fine with the 1.6D NA.
Rotella T 0W40 is full synthetic, at least it's what is says on the jug.
The '0' is a cold viscosity index and the '40' is the hot viscosity index. All you really need is oil that can support heat.
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So there are good points all around. to go synth...
I had never heard of 0W 40.... How are the
cold pumping pressures. It flows good
Would you say the pressures are more stable
than with a 10 30 or a 15 40..................
I end up with high starting pressures and
like 20 psi(at idle when it is hot)...
What about a Filter?
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I use OEM filter (no purolator or fram crap) and never had any problem.
The 0W40 is excellent in winter, it stays liquid even at -1000. :wink:
As for pressure, I don't have an oil pressure gauge in any of my cars.
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First and foremost, i am no oil expert. That being said heed the following:
Keep an eye on the API rating. I havn't seen a 20w50 with a C rating in a long while.
Remember: C= compression ignition, S = Spark ingnition.
The "C" rated oils have detergents to break down the soot that diesels put in their oils. With out this ditergent, the soot paricles will eat your bearings and bores.
Along time ago, I had a naturally aspirated diesel that i fed a steady diet of Castrol 20w50. When I started doing this, it was CD rated. Years later, when i was doing a head gasket, I pulled a piston. The bores were visably worn, and the rod bearings were showing copper. I looked again at the Castrol 20w50 bottle, and the "C" rating was gone.
Right now in the states, I'm only aware of 15w40 and 10w30 dino oils that have a "C" rating. The synthetics are all 5w40. I think the current "C" rating is CI-4.
Any thing else does not belong in your diesel engine.
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C- rating for compression ingition engines....
The idea is detergent to break down the soot.....
After it is broken down(that being the soot)...
Then what? it is retained in the oil filter better.....
Just curious. Are there oil filters geared towards
accomdating this environment better. I know the
fram filters are bad.... when they lose their filtering
ability cause of dirt they become (non-filtered)
like a Lucky Strike cigarret butt.... Aparently they
have like a blow off (pressure relief valve) in them...
and the filter element is by passed.........
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The soot stays in suspension.
Use the VW oem filter, it has no baypass.
Drain interval:
My personnel observation on running synthetic. the engine in question is a 85 1.6td bored to the first oversize, with new pistons, rings bearings ect. probably 80K miles. Grossly over fueled and boosted.
Broke in on dino oil, switched to synthetic after that (Rotella or Delvac 1). Ever since, I can get about 2,500 miles on a pan of oil, and it doesn't use any. After 2,500 miles, it starts to use oil, typically a half quart in the next 500. Whats happening? I'll venture a guess. The oil can no longer break down the soot, and the soot particles are lifting the piston rings.
Change oil, and every things OK until 2,500 miles.
Perhaps the TDis are a little kinder to their oils, but these IDI motors are a little messier, especially if you drive it like you stoll it.
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Cool... I am going synthetic.....
I stumbled upon some nice reading......
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#Use_of_motor_oil
It highlights all that has been provided on the posts here....
Thanks for the info........
Check the link out...... some of the info is excruciatingly
obvious.... but in all there is some good detail... and some
links to more info at the bottom of the page.
Thanks, going synth this weekend. :lol:
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Right now in the states, I'm only aware of 15w40 and 10w30 dino oils that have a "C" rating. The synthetics are all 5w40. I think the current "C" rating is CI-4.
Any thing else does not belong in your diesel engine.
All synthetic are not 5W40.
You can get 0W30, 0W40, 5W30, 5W40, 10W40 and 15W40 either from Amsoil, Esso (Mobil here in Canada for some product), Elf, Motul (and the list go on and on) synthetic oils.
Most of these oil are available with a C rating.
Monst, where is pst?
Pacific Standard Time? :lol: :wink:
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full synthetic isn't 100% synthetic though, just remember that. The only reason I would say 10'000km is because you can suspend the carbon in the oil, but eventually your filter gets plugged up. I guess if you just changed your filter you'd be ok, or depending on how expensive the oil is, you could extend to 20'000km. And yeah, dont go with fram. I've used them but have smartened up and went back with the Bosch. I mean come on, if you're really worried about a plugged filter, your engine oil light will come on and will signal you that you have low pressure, and boy you better change that oil asap!!! :lol:
I found a really neat product from a company that actually mixes some of your used oil with the diesel fuel to burn it, and then replaces that oil with fresh oil into the oil system. Pretty expensive, but would be great on our old diesels.
yes our old IDI's with super high compression have a tendency to get dirty oil fairly quickly, especially if we like to drive it hard (how can you not though???). Pressure from the cylinder shoots past the rings, and into the oil (including soot particles)
I just recently bought a jetta (parts car). The guy had his turbo feed line rust out, and he drove it like that for a few days before he realized it had happened. So he buys a new line and installs it. Week later his car starts getting harder and harder to start until he cant start it anymore. Guess what happened? His new oil line basically flushed all the coked oil, and soot and whatever else gunk got cooked by a starved turbo. All into the oil pan. My best guess is that the coked oil particles started machining critical engine parts. It will make for a good rebuild I think :). I think if he had a good synthetic motor oil in the car, he might have avoided it, but I would not have had such a decent deal. :)
about the 20w50... I was always considering using that oil in my car. Never checked the bottle though but would have if i ever considered doing it. Didn't know that it didn't have the compression ignition api rating. Must be some out there with it though... would be great if you could get a synthetic 20w50 that was easy to start in winter... would be a nice oil for older diesels. (maybe quiet them down a bit too)
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Jtanguay, 20W50 will never be easy to start in winter (even if synthetic) because it starts by 20....cold viscosity index remember... :wink:
If you go to Wallmart, you can pick up some Esso XD-3 0W40 for 25$ tax in (4L jug).
It's full synthetic and it does wonders in winter. :D
Or go to Crappy tires and get some Rotella T 0W40. :)
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Rammstein,
I'll have to point out that the USA is behind Canada in the Diesel world.
Down here, the only synthetic "C" rated oil is 5w40. The caviate being available through normal commercial venues.
Amsoil has a merriad of oils with a merriad of "certifications". And I'm not too keen on using an oil that must be shook be for using, or a cloak and dagger order and delivery system.
For instance down here, Wallmart occasionally carries the Rotella 5W40 synthic diesel oil. I say occasionally because I have gone there looking for it because I'm comming up on oil change time, and it is out of stock and on tripple back order. There is no 0W40, 0W30 or 0Wanything that is "c" rated down here at Walmart.
Delvac 1 is available down here in a 5W40 at Fleet Farm, relabled as truck & SUV oil, or some gibberish of that sort.
So yes, there may be allot of choices up in Canada for "C" rated oils, and I applaud Canada for that.
Down here, the pickens are pritty slim, but Rotella's and Mobil's offerings are good in thier own right.
Best regards
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true that 20w50 will start at a 20 weight, but then again synthetics don't thicken up as much. With a dino 20w50 oil, I would be scared. Synthetics on the other hand, they flow quite easily, right down to -50C or so.
Some caution would need to be in place when starting in winter, such as letting the oil circulate before having some fun etc. I'd guess that 1-2 minutes idle time should do the trick.
It is my opinion that synthetic 20w50 flows like dino 15w40
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i wonder if this thing would work on our cars??
they make claims like "honey colored oil after 4000miles" and stuff
wonder if its any good???
http://www.fs2500.com/
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Auto RX
Once I buy a car I plan on keeping at least a few years I'm going to use this
http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html
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Auto RX
Once I buy a car I plan on keeping at least a few years I'm going to use this
http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html
no way man
http://www.fs2500.com/fs2500_video.htm
that blows away everything.
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why not both?
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Geez you guys have been busy here...
Yeah, sorry on the location.... Itis
EST not Pst.. my typo........US......
Just got this PUP. well, it is almost
year..... Just driving it now all over
creation.... Yeah, on the topic of
oil... I reading a link off the Wikopedia
link I mentioned...
the link was something like..
"all you wanted to know about oil but"
something like that....
he was saying that Synths don't need
oil stablilizers to maintain viscosity....
but, when the index??? I think that
is the term(ie: 0w 40).... when the
index spreads out far(ie: 0w 40)
then stabilizers must be used in the
synth.... And when oil breaks down
it is the stabilizers that "ship the bed"
So what viscosity would you suggest
for southern newengland area... the
most southern.... conn......
And The Bosch filters are the way to go....
And what is this SaurKraut wassayin bout...
AMSoil...... "SHAKE FIRST" :?: I usually
shake after I flush!...... Does amsoil really
want a little shake?
Monst :)
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just go with synthetic. Synthetic uses special detergents and additives to give it a high TBN number (total base number)
What is a TBN number have to do with oil you say? Well acid is bad for your motor right? Water and contaminants in your oil makes some nice acid with all the heat, and so the high TBN number combats this effect to give you extended drain intervals.
I still cant stop thinking about that bypass filter though... its simply amazing! mix that with synthetic motor oil and voila!
the main reason for changing synthetic motor oil is because it gets contaminated with large amounts of soot relatively quickly. Remove the soot/water, and you can easily double.. triple.. quadruple your drain intervals (some guys are going 60'000kms on big rigs)
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Yeah, I read something about AMSOIL running
in some rigs for 409,000....
IS AMS Ok oil?
WHat is the verdit....
just spell it out......
I am figuring I'll get some bosch filters...
but what about the ERL?????
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yea maybe 409000 with an fs2500 filter
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Yeah pulling out the soot......
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we need to find an easy way to mount this thing... then I'll go ahead and buy it (that guy on ebay said hes got 200)
i dunno about mounting it the same way as an oil cooler though. it is supposed to reduce the flow of oil quite substancially... so it cannot impede the flow of oil through the main oil filter. I'm wondering about splicing into an oil pressure sender port or something... don't think thats a good idea, but I'm still thinking!
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wELL, IF TODAY wasn't a totally unproductive
day.... AT LEAST I GOT THE OIL CHANGED...
I managed to get the Mobil Delvac.......
went with 5w 40.. and a Bosch filter......
got to get the air out of the fuel system...
I ran it out of a bucket without the filter...
If I revved way up almost max rpm...
there were minuscule(very tiny) air bubbles....
I think I am gonna change the inj return lines.
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i wouldn't worry about small bubbles... its the big ones that are bad. I havent seen a vw diesel engine without small bubbles in it yet :P
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Why you guys jumpy about the cold visc numbers being low? Its the warm visc number i want high. 5w50 sounds nice to me, good cold start lubrication and stable warm (not thin)
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just like to add my 2 cents.... i am not an expert....just pass on what i know and learn.
syn. oil are man made, while fossil oil is from the ground. Amsoil does make 5w30 that meets VW503 http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asl.aspx etc... oil that does not meet API "C" rating does not belong in a diesel due to the high carbon content (as stated before). most people don't know why... any oil will provide good protection until it gets dirty, most people don't know that water is also an extremely good lube also. WHY???
because due to "hydro-dynamic suspension" of metal parts... meaning the lubricant will separate the metals and the metals should not be touching each other. it is the particles in the oil that acts like sand paper. some people will say "that's Bull sh#$"... then, may be they should try to compress fluid !! fluid is not compressable...only with 2000 psi or more can fluid be compressed one hair line!! (etc..hydraulic jacks, bulldozers and other heavy duty equipment operates on this principle) since your engine does not generate close to 2,000 psi anyways, u don't have to worry about metal to metal...
your engine works with pressure, metal to metal happens when there is not enough pressure to maintain hydro suspension of the 2 metals. so...guys that are running filters with no bypass...what if your filter is plugged, what is supplying oil to the engine??? bypass filters only bypass oil if it senses high pressure in the filter and the pressure will overcome the seals, thus bypassing to your engine, normally they don't bypass nothing!! "bypass" is for emergency - unless someone here can tell me that they can tell when their filter is plugged, then that's a different story. dirty oil is better than no oil !!!
some cheap oil will not have good seal conditioners...due to heat and soot... the seal conditioners will break down and your seals will harden, then u will get leaks and your oil pressure will go way down!!!!! now, u have some metal to metal !!!
Syn. oil is used in extreme cold climate...that's why if u read the product specs. u will see that syn cold viscousity rating is much less then fossil. in cold climate u have to get that oil to your turbo and the top of your engine... how long can your engine run without oil??? 15w40 will take a really long time to get to the top... that's why it is so hard to start your engine when the temp. drops below 0.
i do work in the diesel truck business... VOLVO trucks pride themselves on having 2 filters and 1 bypass filters...they claim that their engines are the best for having that. other manufactures don't put the word bypass don't mean that they don't have it!!!! it's safety... it's crazy not to have it!!! that's a $40,000 engine...it's crazy !!!!
now that these trucks comes with EGR all heavy duty oil will have to changed... i think Mobil1 will have their new oil in the market first. i service lots of Cummins ISX (15L engine) they have lots of EGR valve problems (check engine lights) the industry is blaming the oil manufactures... plus the new emission law will require the manufacturers to reduce emission by 90%!!!!!!!!! therefore.... ultra low sulfur fuel, EGR, TWIN turbos, TRI-turbos and new oil will be introduced.
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i would also like to add...
air is extremely compressible, oil have anti-foaming properties in them and it is stated in owner's manuals in all manufacturers that u should not over fill your oil... tranny, diffs etc... over filling will cause foaming. since air is extremely compressible, metal to metal contact is extremely high. serious damage will occur. air in diesel coolant will cause cavitation, also in tranny etc....
where i work... the oil is free, so i change it very 5,000km :lol: all brand name oil is good... refer to owner's manual and it will say use the right oil for the right climate. i love 15w40 but in canada... during the winter period i use anything with 0w or 5w (shell, mobil1 or amsoil) because i don't plug the car in all the time. i don't feel any difference in performance with syn oil... in terms of protection, all the companies that i've worked for all used 15w40 all year long ( Volvo, Mack, Peterbilt, Kenworth, Freightshaker, internationals) even at -30 and below. these guys will put 600,000km on their trucks in 2.5 years. they never have problems with 15w40!!! none synthetic !!! the reason why i bought a VW is because a guy that i worked with used 15w40 in his jetta and only changed his oil 2 times in a year and he has over 700,000 km!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! in his car!!!!!!! :shock: all original !!!
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2 times a year oil change? synthetic?? if its not synthetic... i'd like to just point out the fact that condensation will get into your oil eventually, and start making it acidic. with all the air these engines suck in, after a while the moisture will contaminate the oil (but the vent will let that evaporate if the car is driven on a regular basis)
i'm pro synthetic... I feel the difference, and the car performs quite well from cold start. I'm running regular oil right now and its not too bad for the moment... just wait until its actually below 0
don't you ever notice that your engine tends to 'bog' near the 4000km mark??? with synthetic it doesn't...
if your friend is using shell rotella T then I can see him reaching million miles WITH regular oil changes...
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AMSOIL has had a by-pass system for a while now. There is an individual that ran his rig 409K on the same oil and all he did was run analysis to keep an eye on the oil's health and change the filters according to the analysis. The truck had over 600k on it but the oil had 409k.
Keeping oil clean is really important. It allows the oil to function like it suppose to without having to work harder because of it getting contaminated with all the soot and other burn byproducts/acids. http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/bf.aspx AMSOIL's by-pass set up.
Going with Auto-Rx is a good thing if your going to keep your vehicle and switch over to synthetic. Getting the inside of the engine clean helps so that the synthetic isn't in there trying to do the same thing which is natural for a synthetic oil. They clean as well as provide superior protection.
If you run extended drains it is a good idea to have the oil analized. It can tell you so much on how your engine is operating.
The VW dealer here recommends 10k oil change intervals on the TDI. This is with just their oil and filter and no analysis. Depending on how your IDI is set up and fueled you should be able to do that and more.
AMSOIL also has come out with the new CJ-4 rated oil. https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/deo.aspx It meets the requirements of the new 2007 diesels. It is backward compatible and can be used in older diesels but AMSOIL still recommends their AME 15w-40 oil and if the 505.01 is recommended then this http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/afl.aspx is what they recommend.
Elf oil is another 505.01 synthetic oil that you can get besides what is at the dealer's. http://www.performanceoilstore.com/compchart.htm
Synthetics are worth considering if you live in colder climates. It really helps on startups. Saves wear and tear on your starter, battery and engine. You don't have to run synthetic. Regular oil will work and there are several on this board I bet that have well over 300k and have run nothing but regular oil. Todays advancement in oil technology it has come a long way from when our IDI's were first produced.
If you do go to synthetic just make sure your getting a PAO group IV, V oil. There are so many on the market today that are not a true synthetic that if your going to spend the extra cash for one you may as well get the real deal. Mobil Delvac, Redline, AMSOIL, ELF have true synthetics. Rotella T is a group III. Here is another interesting thread on this. http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB55&Number=721172&Searchpage=2&Main=721164&Words=Rotella&topic=&Search=true#Post721172
Can someone please explain to me how you put in a different title to a URL you post? Every time I try to post it in a different way it doesn't work. I just end up posting the copied link.
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I sent you an IM explaining how to shorten links
Has anyone experienced more oil leaks after switching to synthetic? This is the one thing stopping me from switching
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the video on the FS2500 website shows the amsoil filter doesn't get rid of the soot.
I'm pretty much sold on the FS 2500 bypass filter.
one good oil company is www.oilextreme.com - they sell a 'better than synthetic' oil. (not sure if theres much truth to that... but who knows!)
some have reported that they have little to no turbo lag anymore because of the extreme pressure properties of the oil. Calcium carbonate additive package in the oil seals asperities in the metal surfaces to create less friction.
i still want to get my hands on their oil and actually test it out!
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my friend with the 700,000km VW worked in the same company as i have mentioned used texaco 15w40 which is the cheapest *** out there (brand name). WHY buy it, it's free! the main reason why most of the Heavy duty trucks in the mississauga area used texaco is because Texaco is right next door. we also own all the texaco transport trucks so they are giving us $1 per litre oil. my company don't care if i change my oil very week!!
why is syn. good for the winter time?????? 5w or 0w is way better than 15W - i don't care about the weight too much in the winter time (40 or 50)...don't care! Yes... i do use syn in the winter time....why??? because i don't use the block heater! and it worked for me. amsoil actually makes a 0w30 oil that will meet VW's 505 rating...u pay for what u get thou.
i'm just waiting for the new mobil1 formula...according to the new emission law. all heavy duty oil will be really hard to burn in the engine and it will clean alot better. :D great news if u ask me... can't wait
by the way....love this forum... lots of people have great info and really helpful.
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two years ago I had a car that would not start in -20C weather with 15w40. It cranked pretty slow. Fired it up with block heater, warmed it up... drained that dirty crap... then put in fresh rotella t synthetic 0W40. Amazing stuff... engine cranked over at -20C at much faster speed, and would start (very rough though... but only because poor compression)
thats saying something right there about synthetic. the cold pour temps are much lower than regular oil. Not to mention that the total base number is much higher than regular oils too. That means that the oil can withstand more of the dirtiness of your engine without becoming too acidic, in which the oil can start to corrode engine components, and lose its lubricity, and ability to clean the engine properly.
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I've always used the cheapest 15-40 diesel oil I can find and if it's cold I plug in the 600W pan heater. Starts like the middle of summer when it's -30 out.
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how long do you need it plugged in for it to start that well? most times there isn't a plug to feed off :(
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I leave it plugged in for at least a couple hours if I can. The coolant is usually a little warm by then as well; however, before I got the pan heater I tried synthetic in the same cold weather and it definately made a difference. I'm cheap and so is dino oil. The pad heater was about $100CAD and I think that regardless of what oil you use it's a good plan on a diesel in the winter. I spend some time in AB during the winter. Vancouver doesn't count....
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Fwiw, the previous owner of my 1992 Eco (I'm the 2nd owner) put 127K on the car and changed oil every 2,500 miles with Shell Rotella. The engine inside is absoutely spotless. No oil usage, smoke, or leaks. It ran perfect. I changed all the seals and gaskets because I had the motor out of the car to do some upgrades. I plan to continue the routine with Rotella because it works.
I'm running Redline MTF synthetic in the transaxle. Daryl at AATransaxle highly recommends it.
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Some really neat info in here. I run Shell Rotella 15w40 all year round. My car starts fine, even without a block heater.
One thing I have noticed: after ~2500-3000 kms, it starts using oil. I've always found that odd, because it doesn't use any up to that point. Some interesting theories in this thread as to why tht would happen:
-the oil "breaking down" and becoming thinner
-the oil suspends enough soot to "rais the rings" and increase consumption
I'd be interested to gear your theories!
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I see the same thing running synthetic. 2,500 miles, no oil loss. From 2,500 to 3,000miles, half a quart is gone. I usaually dump it befor it gets to 3K miles. Why do i run synthetic? Its better than Dino oil. Why do i dump it at 3K? Its obviuosly full of soot. Its only a couple bucks a quart more than good dino and I've done a few full rebuilds and their a pain in loss of use, expense in new parts, and some what labour intensive. I've been contemplating a bypass system, but haven't got around to it yet
I don't think the oil is getting thinner. Everything i've seen related to running oil too long in a diesel is oil thickening from soot contamination.
i'm also a little suspicious of the 10,000 mile drain interval on the TDi engines. There is the phenominea of the plugged intake.
From my actual observations:
People that drive them like they stoll them, and change oil at 3,000 miles do not get plugged intakes.
People that go for max milage, change oil at 10,000+ do get plugged intakes.
Whats happening? I'll venture a guess: These engines have EGR. Perhaps, when the oil gets overloaded with soot, these engines start passing oil by their rings, partially burned oil is going out the exhauste port and is making its way into the EGR and back into the intake.
Whats the answer? Change oil, or get a bypass system to remove the soot and analyze often.
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Yes my TD likes synthetic too. I've been running Shell Rotella T 0W40 (from Canadian Tire...) since June (Amsoil 15W40 before that...). Oil just changed had 6800Km on it with no useage. I did notice that the engine was getting slightly noisier (more clattering from lifters/other engine internals so I decided it was time to change) so I guess I'm in agreement with Saurkraut on not running the oil for long intervals. I also noticed that my old oil filter (Bosch) felt really heavy even after I dumped the loose old oil out of it so I guess it was doing its job. After dumping in some new Rotella & installing new Mann filter, the car seemed to be quieter & smoother than before. :) Anyway that's my two-cents....Cheers to all
Jim
_____________________________
1997 Golf TD - GL
351000Km & counting...
Driven hard & put away wet daily... :twisted:
_____________________________
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So how does one go about getting one's oil
analyzed? This is something I would possibly
do.....
And what about this oil bypass thing....
Is this different than the FS2500 mentioned
above....
Also... how long after an oil change
does the new oil turn black????
for you guys????
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My oil goes black moments after starting my car.
I'm still interested to hear if anyone developed leaks after switching to synthetic on a higher mileage engine (say 500k kms), or is the lack of response an indication that no new leaks delevoped?
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My friend Chris tried some ELF 506.01 0W30 in his 1.9TD with 480k+km He found after about 6k he used a bit of oil since it is thinner than water, but other than that he didn't mention any leaks. I can't say for sure what he uses normally, and it may actually be ELF 5w40 since he can get that cheap from work. He got the engine with around 400k on it and I don't think it had synthetic in it until he got it at least.
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I haven't developped any oil leaks on my car. ran synthetic in winter for 4 months. Started like in summer... at least crank wise :lol:
I did notice a little bit of oil loss, but probably because of the engine being 'loose' when real cold.
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Awesome this is an amazing product, but I wonder at that filter rate will the flow rate decrease and have you oil pump work harder to to pump the oil through the filter.
I believe I could run the normal filter and then have the FS-2500 filter running inline to the Turbo., but would the extra filtering create a lag on the pump. Could I starve the turbo and oil entering back into the motor........
I sent an email to the site, and will hopefully hear back with some pricing, a filter that can filter like that makes me think that we could push our diesels into 600K no problem...........
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I just switched to mobil delvac1 5w 40...
so far no noticeable leaks..... maybe I got
1000+ miles on the oil..... the motor has
about 140K on a 91 N/A... Jetta
I cleaned up the motor when I did motormounts
and som e bozo would drain the filter and just let
it run all over the place........
If I see leaks I will post........ so far so good... 8)
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a filter that can filter like that makes me think that we could push our diesels into 600K no problem...........
I hope so, my newest purchase is at 500k
Please keep us posted with what they reply :D
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do I hear a group buy?! :D If the price is right lol
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i'd have to say that yes, the oil pressure will drop, but keep in mind that the fs 2500 will not 'steal' that much pressure. if the oil had to go through the fs 2500 before going to your turbo, definitely. but since there is dual lines, it will only use a negligable amount of pressure, and work very slowly. under high rpm I believe the oil would simply bypass the restrictive filter, but still provide a small amount of filtering.
every diesel engine should have one of these.
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I agree completly, I haven't gotten an email reply I will call tomorrow, but I believe for any year and make and mileage diesel this is king, if the price is right, I will be installing this in an NA diesel motor wil low milleage and have the oil tested for it's quality.
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The best part is that you don't have to sell it when you sell your car :D Which is great for diesel whores like me that can't keep a car for more then a year
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http://filtrationsolutionsww.com/dealer_information.htm From what I have seen on other lists, you're not going to beat the price on the eBay link previously posted on this thread. (I have seen $500+ for all parts needed for complete installation.)
These bypass filters are not full flow. You shouldn't use the output to feed your turbo. It only filters a small percentage of your oil at any given time, but because it does such a good job, over time it ends up cleaning all your oil better. This is also why a proper setup won't appreciably reduce oil pressure as seen at your gauge. One of our service reps used to work for Bombardier's locomotive division, and he says the only time they changed their oil was when they rebuilt the engine. Other than that they used bypass filters, and used regular oil sampling. (We use Wearcheck, but I don't think they do testing for individuals.) You might try:
http://www.dysonanalysis.com/servicelist.html
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I use Dyson Analysis. Terry rocks! He really gets into the results and breaks it down so that it is easy to understand. He also helps to isolate any issues you might have and gives recommendations as to what you need to do to fix any problems.
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You shouldn't use the output to feed your turbo.
precisely as stated in my post above :)
mainly just stating that the fluid will travel the less restrictive route, not much unlike electricity :)
I'm still trying to get a hold of the guy selling the bypass filters for $190. I'm positive that I can get a brass tee from home depot for my oil pressure sender. i can either make my own hoses, or bend over for some nice steel braided ones! :lol:
I would also install a pressure line to show how much pressure is going to the bypass filter. If it ever went above 1-3 psi, then something would be wrong, no? :)
also, I must give props to Hillfolk'r for enlightening me to the fs-2500 thanks a bunch!!! everyone wants one now :)
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i'm gonna get this t fitting, and then make some oil lines :) once i buy that bypass filter i'm in business
too bad the part is out of stock... argh time for home depot
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for those who care someone's posted up some more FS-2500 bypass filters on ebay :)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FS2500-bypass-oil-filter-FS-2500-NEW-THE-BEST-PERIOD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33661QQihZ010QQitemZ200042220907QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
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Here we go again...............
I was just doing some searching on the fs2500.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=6581&highlight=fs2500
A couple of guys going at it.... regarding filtration.........
It is good reading but, not conclusive of anything.....
I would like to find some post of some unbiased non-advertised
info..................... regarding these or the amsoil filteration
setups.............. Yes, I agree more is better but, How much
bettter.....
Anybody know of any conclusive posts regarding these
filters true affectiveness...(not advertising.)
Monst 8)
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You can always review others installs and experience on bobistheoilguy (http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/postlist.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB36)
That secion is for by-pass filters. You could also review the used diesel oil analysis section (http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/postlist.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB26) and look for the setups that have a by-pass setup installed and read how well their analysis have turned out.
There has to be a ton of different setups out there that people have posted on.
Most other sites you might find would more than likely be advertisements to promote their product.[/url]
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Yeah, I remember that site... I believe
I made reference to him earlier is this
post.. on viscosity.... thanks. I will
check it out.
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well i just received an info kit from the fs-2500 company.
sent to me was a copy of an oil report for a motor using the fs2500 filtration system.with 72,465 miles, and using shell rotella t 15w40, i will quote "We would not be surprised to see this oil go 100'000 miles"
this is from Blackstone Laboratories. Maybe i'll scan it in... very interesting results though. Remember, this oil is NOT synthetic!!! :)
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time to revive this thread!
I've recently put 5w50 in my engine, and it starts much better than the 15w40 in there previously. what a difference!!! when the engine is warm it actually seems a bit quieter... it's mobil 1 super syn... it will do for now :)
and about the fs-2500 filter, i've bought one off ebay and it should be arriving shortly. i'm going to go all out and buy either royal purple or amsoil to put in :)
the only problem really is where to put the oil return... would it be bad to put the return in the valve cover??? (i would think that the oil might vaporize somewhat... but it would be the easiest). i guess i could weld a 'bung' on the oil pan for an oil line... :)
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I would think on the #1 cylinder side would be best if you are putting it on the valve cover
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just picked up my 92 n/a 5spd a/c cruise tilt 460,000 kms. paid $500.00.
it didn't run (no fuel) new check valve and fuel line and it runs idels at 400 rpm and maxed at 3500 no load, adjusted the max fuel screw and now low at 1000 and tops at 5500 no load, under load it stops at 4100.
my bently is on the way, oil and belt this wkend, going with syn 5W50 royal purp, and a can of gm's engine oil supplment (eos)
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hmmmm i wouldn't use eos with royal purple... royal purple is already great stuff on its own :)
i just read up about eos... isn't it just for running in rebuilt or new engines????
get a can of lubro moly diesel purge and run that through the pump... should help clean it out a bit too.
i've never heard of a diesel idling at 400... lol it must have been bucking something fierce!!! :lol:
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no eos is used to "beef up" the oil for longer change intervills
ran like a bag of dog crap, using "diesel cleen" product from a john deere guy, this is my first diesel car
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So, honestly, what's the recommended OCI on a 92 TD with synthetic? Also, what would it be with regular?