VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: as4k on September 27, 2023, 06:43:41 pm
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Long time Audi/VW owner but new to diesels. I found this site and have been combing through a lot of topics. Seems like a great place to learn!
Wanted to share an interesting project that is applicable here but is an Audi.
Back in 2010 an Audi 4000 showed up at a show in Pennsylvania. It was on a dolly and parked with our club. I knew the guy who brought it and the car he had was really interesting. It was a 1981 Audi 4000 turbo diesel 5spd. I had never seen one of these as Audi didnt make or bring many of the td models here, and if so, most were automatics. You see more 4000 diesels than these things. So a lot of us poked around and I took some photos (which become important later), then that was it. The reason the car was on a dolly was due to a hole in the block but I was never told why.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHez9vfESEhgb5UNfirgY5hhqmD2wNSm381w8KSHBd3J59ZD_kOLlRFI1lgMmLa_IkVb_utIOHoUlNOCsVjJ9WHY-4D61nHlLqiM98Wrt32X2jewr7Iq72EU0B8g2Y1l2D7ZyFtlDAI6ieDPAnojAF7C=w1185-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHcfxzQDAO4M1yP-EA2AmVKa5MSnHshUCeCtgRwIeDBKLpJlC3TDcBa9ewPl4_KF_d4YNua4HoaiBSEq36NAD1geL4UeRnwcCrAMv7gKSVeW--6ssaZOkxpGR_DXL-47R-jIszLWCExupIt-AR1n7khF=w1185-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
So years go by. One of my car friends in Georgia ended up with the car and was going to resurrect it. He sourced a nice proper CY engine code block and had the original head rebuilt. He also sent the injection pump to Giles for a rebuild. The car sat for years inside but not a whole lot of progress was made. Fast forward to summer of 2022. My friend asks if I would be interested in it. I say of course and have it shipped from GA to IN. Upon receipt of the car, the longblock was in the engine bay but everything else (nuts bolts, brackets, etc) were in crates in the car. So this was going to be fun.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHdO3o2lvpVTSCCoRTEDHAr_89NeV3AIBEimv2heaQIvqWHFRNStuRSo0KUjxMOBiQLkmZ2jVU6z0GK8M9faJK0SzcTkfUEMK6DTgKFUsg2DiZp6-RexmLjcenpi9PShwKP9MeBe63nryNzg6kQGBC1S=w1185-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfzMkGLeGBTuMneX3MMx-LxBo3wC879_uh5yURh5a3vNzn_tISRBlF-ch_zso8FUxv3DjZo1HnlBbM96kVmyU_bVO5OpbRyrKTuSXWr4VIjFFfBeA4glKjm5qNEMw4QvZuyNap3mLhuvaa5sR9MJ8gQ=w666-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
A few things about this particular car. Its Helios Blue, has power windows, no sunroof, and has dual radiators (which was an option). There was also a hand written story from the previous owner on the car but that appears to have gone missing. I've been told this was a demo car for Audi/VW but I also believe it was some sort of emissions test car based upon the odd EGR set up AND the factory stamps in the maintenance book, along with it doing some 6000 miles in a month.
Work started on the car immediately but I'll jump ahead and leave the better stuff for later. Since GA didnt require titles for cars before 1985 it made getting one for this car a bit challenging. A court order later I was able to title, register, and plate this thing. Interesting fact is that since GA never required a title the original NJ title is still around. Neat relic to have along with some paperwork from when it was bought from the auction after VW/Audi got rid of it.
Needless to say this thing was going to be a project. I'm more of a 5cyl Audi guy but have owned 3 other 4cyl gas models. The only other diesel I have owned (and still do) is a 2012 dieselgate Jetta. Thankfully a good friend in our local car club is a VW guy and has an awesome VW caddy diesel truck, so he has been helpful over the course of a year.
I unpacked the car and tried to sort through everything. Some parts diagrams were tough to find or not available. A few of the EGR parts are nowhere to be found in any parts catalog. Pretty much 90% of everything was there, but a lot of stuff needed cleaned or just plain replaced. Thankfully the engine itself and injection pump had zero miles on them, albeit sat around for a while (pump had all the caps on the open ports).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfoyRiVDHY3hqNTGYGZRrFE8XCdDqzCFAikhp3M2dTMUEabbEnVSsSsbYmuUBaRe1mThdRDD0bqKTz6HvPZ5Sk9seEhstDCdMKbhTh1z79PnaB9spY9QCsny5gheHuleky6udFlVaQX-TbWU9sizzqE=w666-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfI5OWGZEn4zlzhAzkI1OX-UD58MRBthVmvpyMNNR04wZqYYd_zAKlhCgqp9hn3hWKddaERu4EQEVv_te8g0QAuO5lkSw7OoCfbAlurIMqMSK0dQgGdPFpzHk-kqj3ucKRGWbPcnogWB2ss4CQF3A-A=w666-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfHwmc9y3LTPRkfemMatQfgYZjRvTwJdhcYtsVTG0ooOqVWDifMM0n_TeuUZ_vEdOmEaF4YzXd4sG-QBPUSZOuMDm964OefYH17dxWCRxqG0MbOfwmz4HBfyq_BUeI6L9Gc7e_mbbr9vlENf1Tah_pL=w1185-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
Lots of cleaning and scrubbing, also seeing where things fit.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHeWqpa7A2--tfjVVNvPOTpoYcLBJEDYtZ3fV9KHKD3M8YTCRzin6G9X9TGY0ttzsNHseVrOJQdappSkpIhwA3SzXjzK8c9hGpjCaj0tYswlIOKf5V51pNlhD4ceo8kxYiJfmaERu5kKc1yHTq9bLAAf=w1185-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHedDcnb4C73atpB85L70Rtet0UX8aOfdILqcB_YrlsXp4diX-QqixlB7VG7ugKqc1n-aCgS3mJYC-iMaR3gxUIas50HKD13ZcZvtc2V-wisUOl-BEhZfbblGjCEtDa5r5L3bBRa8xpBCqNzoztuSCdA=w1185-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
Time goes by and so many parts are ordered, installed, rinse wash repeat. Got everything in terms of gauges, lights, all power windows, and locks working. My goal was to get the car ready for the show in PA where I first saw the car, but that was May and it wasnt looking good. I actually had the car running by then but the main radiator needed fixed (that unfortunately took ALL summer).
So fast forward to a month or so ago. The car starts ok, gets up to temp great, so I wanted to see if it moved and stopped. I replaced the front calipers, pads, and rotors. Rear drums were cleaned but the shoes and wheel cylinders were perfect. A brake bleed and everything seemed good.
I had an issue after I got the car on the street. The clutch pedal engaged VERY high, which made the car undrivable. Add to that the brake pedal was hard. Car would stop but it took effort. This is where I'm at. I ordered a seal kit for the vacuum pump and will install that tomorrow. The clutch is another story. I didnt realize there is a measurement for the release level in relation to the clutch cable bracket. There is zero free play in the pedal so I need to get the cable off and adjust that lever, then start over.
I'm dying to drive this thing. Its got such an interesting story. I reached out to Audi and every damn contact I have but cannot find production/sales numbers for 1981 models only. I've heard of 1982 and 1983 turbo diesel models but never an 81. With a 1/81 build date AND the factory build sticker in the trunk it all checks out.
Appreciate you guys taking time to read this. Here are more random photos. I've got a youtube channel (Mike's Virtual Garage) and IG (mikesvirtualgarage) for lots of Audi content, and even a video on this thing. Looking forward to learning here!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHd_SasIQJxPDroVCw39g1LDOKZL_MGWyRiIzvOWn5021Q4sA4XNBlYuJVfpyRdY4gG7WV2ZU7IdWLbPRIBXUQS1UET4Sh1ziVpFXpZ5gAlHr5kXqdZFOnLdOsUWh4-Ecwd-DSZ-Kk_5_I-WCn1GvXur=w666-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHcvFPaEot9tuoYwC2zFxZxm9aW-4vLHuCgUIuB1c4-lec_fbGCAub0vTx1-eJHkjR0HVfjzXVSy04H9mKh--tWxcS_R8aqKB102yo2Y9eJCRT0mh4qpCptiEchfu5CgrTpXGWEJxixpUGI73SDcDaV5=w666-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHecDgV7Lgpw06VLoqabYCqyUJNNB5Mp462TgsJHd3LpEKVMudVs8DQ4AZ6qef_yDRI-7ztqVAWWmNo-CURHx85z5Tl96XuMfCwmH6HNj2axULaFeUjaxt3ACLCaVlBT_VDECd_amtZHsaRzF83F29Jf=w666-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHeY1LXjvDlT_lN9yulbs_RunTnipi4ZlP-yWKEGhV6Gi7xZElW4BLADD3uZfVsxNngLP6Mh6c3J0_DvgMPYWIFAdZyElalRnj309o4cI0BGEFoTke7WgJTnErMDJcGn7QJz4tx1amjUlS2VR1rws5La=w1185-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHeUMUryuhtpNbDh51jgg4fjHzK3LV_U4cGbcYSuQ0eeqyvF4OSJjTQEuL20g5awy8LExDi3YB269_M5_i1yJR1hlKer1VrwhiZ8XOt-uj_NV0vu5inKwz4vRWpEDwhQ5nma34uygv8546CU3zynVG7-=w1185-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfU8tg2Iqexc16KFFLJkzGX5xB2XfPqjf5D2Qfp86K9vDn6G8baiQYN5J45nMGH8CQviardvxz0tOzMZ9CO28OF_QKo3fb5KzfbKKnBQw-d0V2SVIEa1cCvLhSzsHVXASoXnu3VvSWQn5smYJ__yV-J=w888-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfa_4Vo0EFxW19sZKZnZ1iki2TuPyq9Yhv3HadSz7fdZnVISladkjKhaejKIFMe3C5HRS0YQ3nKmZMlvvrnKchefY8_56fRxY04XAQbg8Zzi-qy5bWNuTvYc9jvZtK313NtgkjorVaPBv3qv6aYI-1s=w1180-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHdRlEIHPHMOqQy_WEUAbeVRl7oiNedmRN-t8m7SZo0SGfFU7gyqcZG0cTO442RECSkWgITMJXWcQ0ryjGyfHt80_Dw7IsxwrZZYV0s-wyb5SAlZHfXOQ-U7PCzkFXe5cRFOTf-zNkkkRds1n-W46DpS=w1180-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHf4Z3AMn6GxYqHPpF-YizHuBd__eExHxkrCXFds0-Glw2Go59zmd0woeQKRiKpMIsD1FkBcbOUVPrtx0liRovIEtFhLFAcXYalSzu-9KWvFwOM4w9yvqYBCeCAo-yTx9yQItzPZiqqmRmNSM6A_4_vh=w1180-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfXvQw5M5P3XzyFu86yQdD3y2aAcMhCcD8bwdpeILPQMrX_WzU79QUvOe0ctCBCazVHXLrdqC654PseQyaZGxXYaWjos9mBVE_AjP0AunLM93Cp1n6OtwqvlFgqf1IesJMByuJZcp7FleuVwWlrF2Vn=w1180-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfNIp04w7FpGR96DoOUVbqMlWHiaQCHpGuqZr69coVxo7NE6bPGRajMnPrmNcmhWXQZ7CJxvFpFYtJOLkPFYqid1wQMGlxH6tE4xCMRA-9IMqTPmbMCUyTHgVxa0ZXK0rnTk7F3KoMtUzC7ZiAvJBjI=w1180-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
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81 is the earliest VAG car with a TD I believe...
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81 is the earliest VAG car with a TD I believe...
Oh hey Dennis. Nice seeing a familiar name. Come on down to Fort Wayne sometime to hang!!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHceZZJAbSXqHxdrZ769hyWVDr3l949M7Pzc1VvroFcqSch3CtAFZnHT3quQJ2iiCS-OKscGZJ2oABfRWUIoEjIVuHx7a8Nq06fYenmZjuJ6rgO8N8ThrwC4QdJaJdJd63Rut__WbPk7b7FqWkTqWLqk=w1185-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
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Will do. Nice to see faces I personally know.
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Great story,
Thanks for sharing with a great write up and pics..
Hope to see more!
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very interesting car.
especially because it's an 81, the turbo diesel engine wasnt released until 1983
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Small update here. I acquired a new vacuum pump, installed that, and think it solves the hard brake pedal issue. I took a lot of time to get the clutch cable adjusted. The Bentley has a measurement for where the release lever should be in relation to the bracket the cable slides into. That didnt seem too accurate after getting that set. Having never adjusted one of these it took some time but I think its where it should be. A quick test just in the garage nets a much better engagement point. I have not moved the car out of the garage to test the brakes and clutch yet though.
Work will pretty much halt for now. We are working on moving, which is a good thing (A LOT more garage space!). So I'll likely get back to this once the car is moved to its new location.
For now, does anyone have any info on the EGR stuff on this car? There is a bracket that has a rod and a few vac ports that bolts to the injection pump bracket and sits right behind the PS reservoir (pic below). I cannot find anything on this in parts diagrams. With this being such an oddball car, who knows. I didnt add this back since I wasnt going to use any of the EGR stuff. I can pull the part out and look for part numbers.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHcfxzQDAO4M1yP-EA2AmVKa5MSnHshUCeCtgRwIeDBKLpJlC3TDcBa9ewPl4_KF_d4YNua4HoaiBSEq36NAD1geL4UeRnwcCrAMv7gKSVeW--6ssaZOkxpGR_DXL-47R-jIszLWCExupIt-AR1n7khF=w1185-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
I think the car just needs run/driven. Sometimes it starts and immediately stalls. Once started it seems to surge (idle goes up and down quickly). I did adjust the idle and this helped but maybe it needs raised a bit more? There are a few gallons of fuel in the tank and I have a few more to add and was going to add some Seafoam to maybe clear anything out once I can actually get it moving.
Thankfully, at this point, the engine gets up to temp fine with no coolant or oil leaks. I'm really excited to drive it and see how it does. The actual future of this thing is unknown though. May hold onto it and drive it to the PA show and be open to selling.
Appreciate this forum. Been going through a lot of older topics and threads to learn about these!
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Keep us updated please!!
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These old forums are full of great info.
Sometimes that can kill a forum because after doing a search, there are no questions to ask.
That thing stuck to the injection pump might be part of a cruise control.
Even though that's not what they look like on a MK2 Jetta.
Looks like your fuel line used to be clear.
Since there are no computers or spark, fuel supply is important.
Nice to be able to easily look at it and see that it is moving and not full of air.
Most of the time, for me, surging is caused by the injection pump or bracket bolts not being tightened down.
That's not usually at idle though.
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These old forums are full of great info.
Sometimes that can kill a forum because after doing a search, there are no questions to ask.
That thing stuck to the injection pump might be part of a cruise control.
Even though that's not what they look like on a MK2 Jetta.
Looks like your fuel line used to be clear.
Since there are no computers or spark, fuel supply is important.
Nice to be able to easily look at it and see that it is moving and not full of air.
Most of the time, for me, surging is caused by the injection pump or bracket bolts not being tightened down.
That's not usually at idle though.
Yeah, I'm a huge forum supporter. I get that there are other means/groups nowadays, but forums have SO much information that needs to be saved and utilized.
The cruise control for the car is the bellows just to the right of the injection pump. Its the same as other Audi's I'm use to, so that was easy to find its home for.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfNIp04w7FpGR96DoOUVbqMlWHiaQCHpGuqZr69coVxo7NE6bPGRajMnPrmNcmhWXQZ7CJxvFpFYtJOLkPFYqid1wQMGlxH6tE4xCMRA-9IMqTPmbMCUyTHgVxa0ZXK0rnTk7F3KoMtUzC7ZiAvJBjI=w1180-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
Once I get the car running again I'll see if I can get some video about whats going on.
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The new fuel line shows air in the fuel.
But air near the filter when it's been sitting can be normal.
Air in the line just before the filter, when it's been sitting, is absolutely normal.
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The new fuel line shows air in the fuel.
But air near the filter when it's been sitting can be normal.
Air in the line just before the filter, when it's been sitting, is absolutely normal.
I'll get some updated photos/video. That photo was from May, right before I took the main radiator out for service.
Appreciate the responses! :)
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So, I'll be moving in about a month and this means all the garage contents and cars will be as well. I dont think I'll get to ensuring the car can drive, shift, and stop as it should before we move, so I'll have it flatbedded to its new home. Before then I do plan on taking a video for you guys about what this does when I start it up. In the meantime, this car has no tach, and no 4cyl Audi diesels back then could come equipped with one (at least here in the states). How would I check the idle speed? I've seen some older Audi/VW videos with actual dealership diag equipment, but of course I dont have that. Any insight here would be helpful. Also, one thing I found out early on is in relation to the crank bolt. The short block in the car was sourced and rebuilt due to the original having a hole in it. I didnt think much of the crank bolt until I put the pulleys on the front. The crank bolt is not accessible for rotating the engine. This doesnt seem correct. Does this look odd to anyone else? I'll check the PN for the crank bolt but wanted to gain insight here as well.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86wAl9SZHoPelLR4N7YGkAyMlFTVSlgEGiSohDxnB4gnreV10bDGtplNyyHR8JOyhD6bpszLXzVBjzFlco8MX-TIg0hl2ynmwBxSsCBDqjriQsluV-FYV5TfdUmxOFFsjPjcYPOnwyCFGX5UD9hphjv=w1180-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
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For a cheap tach, you can get a Tiny Tach. They have a clamping pickup that goes on the fuel line and uses that as the signal. You wire it up to 12 volts inside the car and you can check that idle fairly precisely. I had one on my Rabbit and had it stuck to the dash with double-sided tape. It was better than nothing.
Nowadays I have a tach where the clock used to be on the gauge cluster. I used the conversion thread on this site to make a gasser tach into a diesel one that uses the alternator wire for a signal. Looks very VW stock. I have converted plenty of others since and the hardest part is getting the GTI tach as they were not very plentiful. I recently discussed with a guy on Craigslist that wanted 650, yep Six hundred and Fifty dollars for one. I passed on that. I had just purchased two MK1 clusters the week before for 25 each.
https://tinytach.com/tinytach
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There is also the laser tachs.
Stick a shiney piece to something rotating, and point a laser tool at it.
The MK2 TD tachs fit some of the busses.
Maybe it will bolt onto the back of the audi cluster.
Or maybe one could be swapped from a gasser Audi of the same year, and adjust the circuit like we do with the GTI cluster in the MK1.
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Thanks guys! The tiny tach is something I had never heard of and sounds pretty interesting. This will be a good option if I cant figure out something with a factory Audi tach. Will keep you all posted!
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What size is the crank bolt? The older engines 11mm headbolt engines had a 17mm bolt, the newer 12mm head bike engines have a 19mm 12pt bolt, maybe you have totally the wrong bolt, or your pulley is for older engine?
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What size is the crank bolt? The older engines 11mm headbolt engines had a 17mm bolt, the newer 12mm head bike engines have a 19mm 12pt bolt, maybe you have totally the wrong bolt, or your pulley is for older engine?
Well, I got this project with the engine in pieces, basically. Looking back at photos from when I got it, the crank bolt was sinched on there so I assumed it was correct from when the bottom end was rebuilt. I am def not one to assume though! I have the PN for the correct crank bolt and washer. The CY has some specific pulleys and it appears all of those on the engine now are correct. I have had a few friends send photos of various engines with this code, so those have helped.
I've never been an artist, but this car has been like painting without a brush, to put it lightly :D
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i dont think there is a washer, only the older engines had that, perhaps you have an older crank in a cy block?
did you have the crank sprocket off? was it a woodruff key or the angular notch key? the 11mm engines had a woodruff key, newer engines had the angular notch, and then with the tdi they went a flat spot on the crank.
this should be the right crank bolt:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-screw-genuine-vw-n90577101
and this is what the cy crank sprocket should look like:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/166362673113?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=rIbV4gbGTBa&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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I'll ask Casey to see if there were any specifics that he remembers. From what I know its a proper CY block but I figured that was an Audi only engine code? EDIT - I did find out that the block came from a Jetta TD, so not an Audi like I originally thought.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85YjUjfZ0_uEVoQCB6SnlwCUAgPTUoLGUvtQG7DilscMTqvZ384qPsfYfcdPEVoGvkI8Siy6YbYs3SAhi6tRuHCBM7BsxJCGTBuCPYC1p9FsNB8iWYsygh_i7cGW09q_bzKd6Tw-kp9lNWs0pe4vy-E=w666-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
If you zoom in you can see what was on there when I got the car. Looks like a standard hex head bolt with a large washer.
I use 7zap all too often for stuff. This shows what options there are depending on code and such.
https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+4000/a40/1982-3/1/105-4000/ (https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+4000/a40/1982-3/1/105-4000/)
Lots of good information here. I appreciate everyone chiming in on this stuff because there could be things on the car that may be incorrect and I just dont know it. I never did take the crank sprocket off to check if it was a woodruff key.
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i think cy could be in an audi or vw.
I am not 100% sure on the bolt, but from what i have seen 11mm headbolt engines had a 17mm 6pt crank bolt with washer, 12mm/81 and later engines had a 19mm which i believe is 12pt but maybe that is only the later engines like aaz/ahu.
maybe someone more experience can chime in. I dont think it's anything to be concerned with, the later crank sprockets are stronger/more reliable but i wouldn't be worried either way so long as everything is torqued to spec.
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I think I was more concerned that if I needed to crank the engine by hand, I really couldnt from down there unless I took off the crank pulley sandwich.
Of course, this is just one of a handful of things I'll investigate and fix when the car is moved.
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You should be able to get to the crank bolt with the pulleys on.
That chain looks big enough to lift the engine, ha.
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You should be able to get to the crank bolt with the pulleys on.
That chain looks big enough to lift the engine, ha.
The photo I had didnt originally work so I'm reposting it. LOL, yeah, the chain was a bit overkill but its what my friend had :D
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86wAl9SZHoPelLR4N7YGkAyMlFTVSlgEGiSohDxnB4gnreV10bDGtplNyyHR8JOyhD6bpszLXzVBjzFlco8MX-TIg0hl2ynmwBxSsCBDqjriQsluV-FYV5TfdUmxOFFsjPjcYPOnwyCFGX5UD9hphjv=w1180-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
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I think you need to replace that bolt with something that is longer and has a head on it that you can turn by hand with a wrench. I have an 81 with a 17mm head on it.
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I think you need to replace that bolt with something that is longer and has a head on it that you can turn by hand with a wrench. I have an 81 with a 17mm head on it.
Agreed. I'll snag the correct bolt based on the parts catalog. Just figured it was correct from when I acquired everything.
Appreciate the continued help here!! :)
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i am curious what you'll get a replacement. I think the pulley is probably the problem, like it is intended for an older 17mm crank but this is a later engine, it is an 81 which was the cross over year for 11mm/12mm head bolts.
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yeah man, what is going on with that pully?
I've never seen a pully that covered the bolt like that.
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Maybe it is from an Audi and not a VW part at all. Might look into that angle and see what comes up. With all the tweaking I do on my VW I find it hard to work on it if I couldn't turn the crank manually. I mean how do you even time that thing?
Oh, by ear of course. Sounds good let it go. Hey in cold weather I have to crank on it so long my battery dies. OH, that is good to hear. Maybe measure the timing next time.
Rant and Rant some more
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I usually turn the crank, to set the timing,
by putting it in 5th and rolling it.
Grab the driver's side wheel and turn it.
That way I can look in the timing hole and line up the marks.
I usually rotate the engine by putting a socket on it to get close first.
But I can't see the timing marks from that end.
Gotta turn the crank a couple times after a new belt to see how it tracks and make sure nothing is hitting.
So yeah, that would kinda piss me off if I couldn't put a socket on that bolt.
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7zap has been pretty good in terms of part numbers.
https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+4000/a40/1982-3/1/105-4000/ (https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+4000/a40/1982-3/1/105-4000/)
There is a specific bolt and washer for the CY engine listed and I have no clue if thats whats in the car now. I doubt it. There are a few specific pulley pieces based upon the engine code and if it has power steering (mine does). Oddly enough there is a different water pump pulley listed (on a different diagram), which I believe I do have.
This thing is wild. I'm thankful to have a vw diesel guy here that helps with that sort of stuff, but since this is such an odd car its been fun.
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i do pretty much the same thing as fatmobile except i let it on the ground, and just push the car back or pull it forward to set the crank position.
on the tach, if you can find a the same cluster you have but with a tachometer for a gas engine then you can run a dakota digital converter.
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I think with the engine being longitudinal helps me a bit. Whenever I mess with timing on the 5cyl cars its very easy since the flywheel is easy to see while still moving the crank a bit from the front. I always joke with my VW friends about how the older Audi engines are in the engine bay the "right" way :)
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on the tach, if you can find the same cluster you have but with a tachometer for a gas engine then you can run a Dakota digital converter.
But Why? and that isn't stock, so I don't like to do that. I prefer the long way around and convert the tach to use the alt wire which makes it difficult to do. That is just me.
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Been a minute so I'll provide a small update.
We are now moved into our new house. Both of my Audi's were actually the first things moved over, so that was nice. The 4ktd was towed and I drove my other one. We now have just a bit over 2 acres of land, a much larger attached garage, and room/plans to build a separate out building, so TONS of room for activities.
For the first time under my ownership and likely many years, the 4ktd sits outside, and doesnt look too shabby out there. i hopped in the car last week after charging the battery in hopes to see if it would start and run. A few cranks and a bit of help from the go pedal and it came to life. I still have the odd surging idle, but it may just be the idle still needs adjusted up some. Runs great though.
I made a few notes the last time the car ran. Fuel leak from injector #4 where the rubber cap sits over the last port on top of the injector. I cant tell if the actual nipple there is a bit tweaked or the cap just needs a small zip tie. Either way I have another injector to toss in. I need to tighten the turbo oil feed line a bit. The clutch pedal wasnt returning all the way (but it is now), and the brake pedal is still hard. So this means the vacuum pump may not have fixed the hard brake pedal issue. I said screw it and ordered a new master and brake booster. I hope to get this stuff replaced yet this month. The only other oddity was that after letting the car run until the main cooling fan came on, I shut it down, then immediately tried to restart. I got a very slow crank and no start. I suspect the battery, which isnt 2 years old (but had a 2020 date on it) is toast. I've done enough charging and jumping with it :)
I do owe you guys some updated photos and a video of it starting/running. I also did acquire the correct crank bolt, so I'll take time to replace that. I was really hoping to take this thing to Carlisle (which is this week) but moving sidelined ALL car related activities.
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Sounds like you have a nice setup.
Check to see if the alternator is putting out.
Cuz it probably should have charged the battery enough while running.
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Sounds like you have a nice setup.
Check to see if the alternator is putting out.
Cuz it probably should have charged the battery enough while running.
And as usual I forget some useful information :D. I'll check again for sure. The volt meter inside the car showed like it had good voltage but I'll check it at the battery. Alternator is fairly new, not that it matters.
Yes, the more space is outstanding. I was doing rear brakes on my other Audi a few days ago and was in the driveway. I had so much space and nobody around to watch me! Def enjoying this so far and cannot wait to get the garage all sorted so we can fit some cars in there :)
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Maybe just check the battery terminals and the ground to the frame. If the Alt is putting out the right amount of power then maybe it just isn't getting in to be stored as it should.
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Maybe just check the battery terminals and the ground to the frame. If the Alt is putting out the right amount of power then maybe it just isn't getting in to be stored as it should.
Ah, interesting thought. So, where should the engine to body grounds be? Honestly the only ground I can think of is the battery negative to the transmission bolt. Since I got this car with pretty much nothing assembled I didnt even think about additional grounds.
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carlisle, are you near central pa?
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carlisle, are you near central pa?
I am not but our club goes to the Import show in early May there every year, so I make the trek from Indiana out there. Will be there with my other Audi later this week/weekend! Its where the car in question first graced us with its presence :D
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One way to check grounds is to crank on the starter for a while then feel the cable ends.
Bad cable connections get warm/hot.
That ground to the trany is always suspect.
Running electricity through a bolt that goes into aluminum. Galvanic corrosion.
I like using the MK3 battery cables and running the engine ground right to the top starter mounting bolt.
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The negative terminal on my truck has a split cable. One goes to the frame rail and the other goes to the transmission. Not sure if this is stock but it does help to have them on all parts of the individual big metal pieces.
Maybe a visit to the parts store is in order for you.
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Thanks guys. I'll check this soon. Def appreciate the help and comments!!
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Right, you can't just have a ground from the battery to the block.
You need one from the battery to the frame too,.. or your instrument cluster can act funny and
lights can be weird.
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Fatmobile, don't all VWs have gauge clusters and lights that act weird? Even with ground straps on all parts of the car? It just seems that way to me for some reason.
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My gas and temp gauge go up and down together, ha. But that's probably just the voltage regulator contacts.
What really had my cluster acting funny, I'm convinced,
was the little ground wire from the steering rack to the body was missing.
My own fault, I didn't realize how important it was.
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Back from PA in my other Audi. Around 20 hours of driving and the car did quite well. I was still bummed I couldnt get the 4ktd ready for the trip as there were other 4k's there of that vintage.
Ok, battery stuff. I actually took the battery back to Autozone today and they confirmed the core is shot. Ironically they didnt have a DLG battery there, couldnt get one, and sent me to a store that supposedly had one, but they only had DL versions, whatever. So at least I'll be fresh with a new battery once I sort out the cables and grounds.
Now, I've had zero issues with the gauges or lights in this car. Coolant and fuel gauge read correct, volt and oil temp seem to be as well. But I will upgrade the negative and possibly positive cable and battery connection. I did this with my other Audi a few years ago. I wouldnt mind some opinions on exactly what you guys would use.
In terms of ground locations, I'm attaching a few photos. Keep in mind this car was pretty much all apart, but the main negative cable was still there. Its attached both at the battery tray and bellhousing. There is another cable straight from the battery to the bellhousing. I can either add another to a better grounding point (opinions on where would be nice), or replace and move the "blue" cable elsewhere.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOpnhLCWFyvvrTIK4Zc-aXPyPfYg0-PWD4Vt2r7v4UMExOTPe3pim1jsk_rh0QTrea7hD0bhL0dUXAAo6Eq4Ho7FF3E6FhCOJmaMN46OIwnwWZj6YySJgfccMvYgl_QFgFaPJQLi0evYYNkceuBZJVb=w1962-h1478-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczO3siIbz4xKgc8a-oHxCI0rYhdo9JthvPMmBpvkvLAn0t62xKJqNy4MntJAJQ6qtDlYCc69og4ICDrK1nS3K3LUMWf_H2WRjpc5UrJ6_ubghCx0E5lCTRmJTWqY-0n7bvF-WBheEKGbfoaWfebqkY62=w1962-h1478-s-no?authuser=0)
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That looks like plenty of ground cables.
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Small update. First, I still owe you guys a starting video. I'll get on that this week. We moved a few months ago, had the car show in PA, and just got back from a cruise, so things have been busy and I have not done many car related things. I did however put down a list of things I need to get done on this thing. I also hooked up the new battery and gave the car a start, idle, and to see if it moved (since I messed with the clutch cable many months ago).
I'll let you guys weigh in on the starting when I post the video. I still need to see why injector 4 is slightly leaking, but I do have a replacement to toss in. The engine actually seems to vibrate more than it used to when it was at my other home in the garage. I'll check the engine mounts and such there. I did try to move the car and it does move in reverse and 1st! Clutch engagement seems good, but the pedal needs some adjusting as it doesnt fully return. I'm more of a hydraulic clutch guy so this is all new stuff. Cable is brand new OEM.
Lastly, I did buy some actual timing tools (dial indicator) as well. My friend who is the VW diesel guru has some and has timed my engine and pump. Figure I'll learn how to do it myself so I can understand too. When I pull the crank sandwich off to replace the crank bolt I'll have us verify the timing again.
More to come! Appreciate everyone here!
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Thanks for the update sir!!
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Ok, video time. Its unlisted for now, so just click or copy the link.
Outside temp was about 70 degrees and this was the first time trying to start today. I have never touched the advance knob on the left side of the dash, FYI. My friend said he never really touches it either and his car starts/runs fine.
Typically I give the car more pedal after it initially starts and stalls out, so sorry for the repeated starts/stalls. Alternator belt was quite loose, so thats the reason for the squeal. The car has never just started and idled without a little help from the go pedal. Once started I can let off slow and it will idle ok, but does surge sometimes. You can hear this once I hop out of the car and head to the engine bay quick. The car smokes the same amount from the tailpipe no matter warm/cold. This is without fixing injector 4. Will fix asap.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsSW3VjAV84
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsSW3VjAV84[/url)
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Try pulling the cold start lever just after it starts to run.
Leave it in while cranking.
If you've never used it, you will be surprised by how well it evens the idle out.
Looks like 2 links to the same video.
Good video, nice engine shots.
Sounds like it smooths out and idles nice.
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Try pulling the cold start lever just after it starts to run.
Leave it in while cranking.
If you've never used it, you will be surprised by how well it evens the idle out.
Looks like 2 links to the same video.
Good video, nice engine shots.
Sounds like it smooths out and idles nice.
Oops, didnt mean to double dip on the link :) (I cleaned it out for you. ORCoaster)
In terms of starting, I'll try that. I'll see if I can work on my to do list items soon then provide an update. I wasnt sure about the idle. With no tach or previous tdi experience, I was just going by sound when I adjusted it.
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https://youtu.be/QGtBX2cP9Jc?si=33xQ_cj3hVfsu1ah
Alright, so I opted to attempt to move this thing. I still need to mess with the clutch cable a bit. Bear with the slipping clutch as I'm def not used to this vehicle.
Now the car is in a better place (not on rocks) to work. Got a slew of things I wanna do before I attempt to take it down the road. I'm hoping the smoke clears out a bit....
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Always good to have them moving, and stopping.
That is a little smokey.
Could be air in the fuel.
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Timing clack?
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With the car moved I'm ready to tackle some things.
- Remove accessory belts, crank pulley "sandwich" and inspect crank bolt (you recall the photo I had earlier where it didnt seem long enough as the head was sunk into the hole area)
- Check timing. I have Bentley manuals and all sorts of stuff for various older models. The 4000 Bentley of this vintage honestly has a 1 pager for the turbo diesel and its only about the injectors. I found the Quantum Bentley has a very nice section for the turbo diesel motor. I also found that the VAG 1367 can check the idle speed on these. I have one and that will make seeing the idle speed easier :). Will get some help to verify and dial in the timing. Could this be a cause for the smokyness?
- Alternator bracket. The factory one doesnt have the teeth section and accompanying star adjuster like some of the later cars do. I'll look at this and see if I can adapt one as the alternator does get a bit loose.
- Check engine mounts
- Check clutch cable. This one has the adjustment further up the cable near the firewall. I'm used to hydraulic stuff so adjusting this is new to me.
- Engine oil and filter change
- Transmission fluid change
- Brakes. I need to test the booster to see if it actually holds vacuum. Pedal is hard and doesnt get soft like I think it should. I have a new booster and master if needed but want to actually diag to see whats wrong.
Dying to get this thing moving! Just wish I knew more about these. If this was a 5cyl gasser then I'd have zero issues :)
Thanks guys!
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Sounds like more than a weekends worth of work to me. But then again, I take it easy when I work on my truck as it is supposed to be my relaxing time.
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I'd check to see if the vacuum pump is pulling vacuum before I'd worry about the brake booster.
The alternator is on the back side of the engine on this model right?
Haven't seen that setup for a while.
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Originally the vac pump wasnt doing anything. I bought a seal kit to replace the original but that didnt work. I ended up with a new unit that now pulls good vacuum. I'll check this again though.
Alternator is at the passenger side of the engine. It of course has a unique bracket that attaches to the block. Since this is longitudinal its "special" :). Some of these had AC but this one does not, so that changes the bracketry too.
Yeah, def a lot of work. I take my time and enjoy this stuff. With moving house stuff has taken precedence, so there hasnt been much wrenching. I gotta get this thing moving though! :D
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Registered because I was looking for some 4k Diesel exhaust info and stumbled into here. Before I get to that and my other Qs...
on the tach, if you can find the same cluster you have but with a tachometer for a gas engine then you can run a Dakota digital converter.
But Why? and that isn't stock, so I don't like to do that. I prefer the long way around and convert the tach to use the alt wire which makes it difficult to do. That is just me.
I just ordered a cluster/circuitboard/the whole system off ebay to get the tach instead of the clock. Is it not going to be straight swap? Looking at the 7zap parts it seems like you can have clock or tach+clock combo and everything stays the same? Unhelpfully they don't have part numbers for the circuit board or gauges so we can see how many variants there are of each.
Because I was going to suggest figuring out what the input source for the cluster is to get an idle reading.
Really enjoying this thread because I have an 82 4k Diesel NA and seeing how different your engine compartment is, is enlightening.
Qs for this car specifically
-It seems like from the early photos to the video, you redid the external trim? Like it goes from an early 80s to a mid 80s(lights, Audi badge near door sill, etc) or are there two? Great color and condition. Mine is a deep red and has some Wisconsin rust unfortunately, but I do have cooler rims. Not to dump on yours obviously.
-In which case, where did your original lights go? I'm kinda in need of the bumper fog/turn signals...
-Do you have AC? I swear I have a compressor on the exhaust/inlet side of my engine and the lines but haven't spied my condenser yet or any sort of AC system cabin-side. Unless it's all very small.
-What are you doing for tire brands these days? And are you doing 13 or 14 rims?
General Q(why I joined):
I'm doing new exhaust because mine has rotted out. And I have a pair of 2 inch 'turbo mufflers' in boxes. Btw if you need one let me know. So I figure I'll redo my pipes at 2 inches to match up my new muffler. What's a part number or good source for an affordable 4-stud downpipe at 2 inches?
My CR Diesel seems to go exhaust manifold>a mile of pipe>muffler/resonator/silencer>over the rear axle and to freedom. That's the factory layout at least. Mine had small mufflers before and after rear axle but it seems like I only need and can get away with one? It's not exactly waking the neighbors even on the current straight pipe configuration.
I left the rear silencer on to help law enforcement ignore me but it's kinda cruddy too so I figure go with my shiny and free muffler and build an exhaust system to fit that. A little better flow along the entire path seems like a good thing but I can always adapt it to my existing smaller downpipe.
Have always toyed with the idea of doing a turbo on mine but having read a few threads here and elsewhere, you really need to get the original TD engine to have the best chance for reliability and longevity. Tough I have no intension of aftermarketing it or cranking it up, I just wanted some more torque and top speed on the highway since 80mph seems to be the minimum cruising speed these days.
I have no intension of cranking the boost past stock so maybe I can slap a turbo on a CR and be fine with a few modifications to accommodate it.
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So, this car is interesting because it has a 1/81 build date. The story with the car has a few things that I wish could be verified. The car as far as I know, is "original" in terms of the body, interior, and pretty much everything except the original block in which part of it left the chat. When I search for parts I have to use 1982 because in 1981 nothing comes up in ETKA or 7zap for the 4ktd. The original EGR equipment too, I cannot locate in any parts catalog. So this car is pretty special and unique. I still think it was a demo and also emissions test car for Audi/VW. The stamps in the book for service and the mileage, indicate it was a test mule of some kind.
In terms of lights, which ones are you referring to? I replaced the sealed beams up front with H1's and H4's. I also have brand new turn signals to put on from a shipment of parts from Audi Tradition over the pond.
The body on this thing I'll say is "survivor-like". It spent pretty much its entire life on the east coast and has its share of problems, but nothing crazy. I struggle with keeping it mostly original due to the odd nature of it. This is a non AC car. I have a few folks that either have a 4ktd or a 4kd with AC and the compressor is on the passenger side and of course has a different bracket for both the AC and alternator to share.
Car currently has the original 13's on it and I've been trying to find the silly clips that hold the center caps on. For originality I'll clean up and refinish the 13's and run them. I thought about snowflakes too, which I think would look nice, but its not an original Audi wheel (VW yes...).
Thinking of the exhaust, I know it has a rear muffler and I think only a muffler a bit further up before the rear axle. I'll have to get under there again to verify. I had found some original exhaust pieces on ebay but never pulled the trigger. Would be interested to see what mufflers you have!
So, this car is very unique and quite rare. Whatever 4ktd's they sold here, which are so few, were mostly automatics. This one has the dual radiator set up too, which just harks the later older Audi's with a main and aux radiator. This car obviously doesnt need this much cooling but I couldnt bring myself to delete the side mount. It continues to be a puzzle without a box. I really hope to get it road worthy soon so I can take it to Euro District in early October.
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In terms of lights, which ones are you referring to? I replaced the sealed beams up front with H1's and H4's. I also have brand new turn signals to put on from a shipment of parts from Audi Tradition over the pond.
This video is what's confusing me youtube dot com /watch?v=QGtBX2cP9Jc
Your headlights, turn/fog in the bumper, and door trim looks mid 80s rather than early 80s. Compare it to one of your first photos of it on casters in the garage. That's where I'm mystified.
riotsqrl.wordpress dot com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/20240728_122320-collage.jpg
I notice you have a cruise control stalk and I don't.
Btw on your startup vid, are you not using the enricher knob? I use mine even in summer. It really benefits from it at startup, and also revving it a little so it gets out of the idle circuit. Mine has min and max throttle switches at either end of the travel so getting it "off" the bottom, even for a moment, seems to help wake it up. Plus I have a switch of some kind under the throttle pedal if I mash it to 101%. I don't know if that duplicates or otherwise suplements the max throttle position switch on top of the engine. Or even what it does. It's not like this thing has a brain...
I'm running the best diesel I can get, Stanadyne additive, and Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 with a good Wix filter. I have some nasty winters so that's a good oil, plus I have a block heater.
The random muffler inventory I have are Dynomax/California Boss Turbo Mufflers, 2 inches. One is a little bigger than the other, both offset. I haven't stuck one under the car yet to see what fitment is like...
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Ah ok. I have 2 older Audi's. The Graphite Metallic is a 5cyl gasser. The Helios Blue is the 4ktd referenced here.
This car does have cruise but does not have the electronic switches on top of the injection pump. I originally thought they were missing so I bought new ones, only to discover they dont apply on this car. Correct, I've actually never used the knob. My friend, who is a stellar diesel VW guy, says he never uses it on his caddy truck. His pump like mine was rebuilt by Giles, so I kind of have been following his lead. I'll give it a shot though and see what happens. It may help my starting situation.
An oil change is on my list. I do have Rotella T6 in there now and I'll use that again. I use Mann filters out of habit :).
Not sure what all you've seen in this thread. Here is a very rough video I made a few years ago when I got the car.
https://youtu.be/p8LZ_814RyA?si=UVFpW8KNr-k5ena2
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Some good news, and some typical frustration.
Good news is that after some testing I believe the hard brake pedal issue I've been having is fixed. The valve on the booster needed replacing (vac pump was already replaced). Pedal has a good feel now. Glad it wasnt the booster itself.
Injector #4 is still barely leaking towards the bottom. I have a spare injector but the ones I put in were newly rebuilt, so I dunno. I'm not one for swapping parts until I figure out whats wrong, but in this case maybe a quick swap is necessary.
Clutch cable and release lever. I've had a holy war with this thing. First of all, the car came to me with the trans in, but nothing hooked up to it. I do not remember if the PO ever removed the release lever. At any rate, when I ptut the engine and clutch cable in, I just hooked the cable up, and lifted the other part of the cable into the bracket. Fast forward to driving it for the first time, engagement was just at the top of the pedal and the car was undrivable. Clutch cable was super tight, so something was wrong. Bentley has a measurement from the bracket to the release lever. I've messed with this so much and think I'm close, but something doesnt seem right. Thought I had it adjusted nicely today, but came across the same issue of a high engagement point. I did adjust the cable but once I do this the pedal inside has some dead space, which doesnt seem right.
The Bentley doesnt list this type of cable and adjustment, which is my luck. The old (likely original) cable I pulled off is the same style, with the adjustment near the firewall. New cable I got is the same PN and style. I also got a different style (not installed) with adjustment near the bracket.
So I've monkeyd around with this a lot. Anyone with a longitudinal diesel or turbo diesel have a measurement or maybe some help? If I use the measurement from the Bentley the cable has too much slack once its hooked up and I can easily unhook it.
The photos below are before I messed with stuff. The adjustment now is somewhat in the middle, but pedal has some play.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMHxKBsKm76abRCiOe34N1sB-ytvdi91xcv27KctgKIVEH9ZqdAsfdj9pFqfMPPe9jiOD1sqAVk92IKb-JpK2skjORbc5rE2bQLNwhnl0fYzggSxxH1Mll_KBjeE4l0sa35I3jTMBA9hfGOnTESs6vD=w1962-h1478-s-no?authuser=0[img])[/img]
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPSS0K4h-OGCkzRfVP7ptDLD-oXZ4D5CHId5C4LmzJeHx_FbYh6ckB0skpB1Nf0RpAhQgepwokcIhJWf7zD9uKNZ4smhaqhCIirYO3XFwupS6waP8T6f1Kp5R_5ZQcI6XLVu7Rb2unpX_jK2DuVgGSA=w1112-h1478-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOic4I8O0hBnBgmWjvzc5yZ0OpyMjF61TIgt0L6ebW1-bea5rP548eJ-N6WGz7ekJmAgQE4mUDMa7E8-s8xuFUm1WWipR0soiESxdU430YXhsR0xJuCBtUjaBlBw5_m8zBQby3JHr90sOklYSxRhVX8=w1112-h1478-s-no?authuser=0)
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Injector is leaking near the bottom, where it meets the head?
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Injector is leaking near the bottom, where it meets the head?
Sort of. I thought it may be coming from the cap on the nipple further up. I tightened the nut holding the injector line to the injector, that helped. I'll have to look a bit more closely. I also tried to tighten the top portion of the injector.
Odd question for anyone here. I have a VAG1367 and was going to use it for the first time today to check the idle speed on this thing. To my dismay that portion of the tool doesnt seem to work, or I'm missing something. There are the positive and negative leads on the left. The bottom has a lead for the coil and #1 ignition wire. Top has the RPM sensor and a timing light. When this thing powers on the red LED above the plug for the RPM sensor comes on, but then goes off. I cannot find instructions on this for a diesel engine. The Bentley just says to hook it up per manufacturers specs. Does either the green lead or the one next to it get somehow connected to something on the td engine?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNJV9UnJbuQ3Y3qSRFZOkBn2l9_BuUIaUGy30TL-PfEoVmzWXofyI8eB2Qc8LfctckttsgbvRu4k-RHRPqFDlopWGJh8B3sNBFyG6KWjPrw_9ColsO5xL3ePRXY9uctCq3BSE96cD6kndqUo0K-up7J=w1962-h1478-s-no?authuser=0)
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I finally got my 82 4k D running after two months down for repairs, tried to reverse out of the shop, and couldn't find my clutch pedal. The cable had slipped off top cabin-side. Which is baffling because I'd done nothing clutch related. Even when I needed to shift into or out of neutral I just moved the lever at rest.
Also my fanbelts are suddenly screeching like they were getting murdered. Again, no engine maintenance. Just driveshafts/suspension/brakes.
On mine I have a W-terminal on the alternator. Red/Black/Yellow wiring that goes straight to behind the dash and is Pin 9 on the 12-pin connector. If I ground a multimeter and run AC volts, I get signal there. If I press the throttle the signal goes up. I release, it goes down. Depending on your alternator you might have signal. I'm at least the second owner of this car, and my Haynes manual doesn't include diesel wiring(or diesel anything) so I'm not sure what the W-terminal wire is for in 'factory' mode since these things never came with tachs and if you rig one up you have to convert so....
My wiring may be an add on for something else.
Also Terminal 9 is 'double' plugged and has another red power wire going to something else. btw I'd love to cost-up having these foil circuitboards remade in really really thin solid material. If we can do them relatively affordable maybe there's a bulk buy opportunity. Awfully fragile when you're replacing bulbs.
Currently rigging up a Dakota Digital and during testing was getting calibration signal to the tach I got off ebay, but nothing with engine running. Since I'm running straight off the alternator I might need to go to the higher voltage setting.
Brakes - New rotors and pads and bled the brakes and rebuilt the caliper and the pedal is as bad as it was before. In the sense that I've never had 'great' brakes in a 4k. It just sorta slows down. The pedal is not mushy but it's not stiff either. It feels like weak material or something. I wish I could describe my brake pedal as too hard. May bleed the drums to see if that helps overall.
Pads are resting against the rotor too so I'll have to double check my thickness isn't too much(the bane of modern parts on old cars) and that the piston was fully pushed back.
New steering arms and identical length so getting alignment is a little funky. I previously had a really short steering arm and a 'normal' length adjustable one. When the steering is centered is the bracket for the steering arms at the midpoint of the vehicle? I'm struggling to identify a 'zero' point from which to determine where my steering wheel is centered and how much I need to adjust the tie rod lengths to my uprights. I'm at 3 and a bit turns of wheel lock but even going to halfway doesn't seem right.
Still amused at how different our cars sound. I don't know if it's turbo vs non but you sound like every diesel I've heard. Chug-chug-chug. I'm much more tick-tick-tick.
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Some news on this car. Its going to be up for sale soon looking for a new home. I feel pretty good with where the car is now versus where it was when I got it 2 years ago. Going to finish up a few things shortly then hopefully somebody else can give it a good home and care for it. This place is a fantastic resource and everyone here has been top notch in terms of help and information. Will share more and some "closing thoughts" when the car hopefully sells. Got another Audi on the way which will be a bit easier for me to work with. I likely wont post it anywhere now except for a few fb Audi sites. If anyone here was or is interested I'll leave my email here. audisport4000 AT gmail DOT com
Thanks all!
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Still working over here. Last month we went over the timing again and made an adjustment at the injection pump. After that, car was still hard to start and did smoke a bit out the back. My friend mentioned maybe low compression. I didnt really want to hear that given the rebuilt head and also block that had been gone through. Injection pump was rebuilt but then sat for a good 10 years before usage.
Anyone have suggestions on a good compression test kit? I watched a few videos on how its done on diesel engines. One guy totally removed the fuel lines. Is that totally necessary? Can I just undo the connection at the solenoid then crank? Any advice or BTDT here is appreciated. While I'm at my wits end with this I do want to find out whats going on. After I know then a course of action to fix it :).
Thanks guys!
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I remove the lines so that I have the best access to the injectors. I use that adapter that goes into the injector body with the spacers and don't have any of the others in their places. It seems to help with the cranking not having the backpressure
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I remove the lines so that I have the best access to the injectors. I use that adapter that goes into the injector body with the spacers and don't have any of the others in their places. It seems to help with the cranking not having the backpressure
Ok, that does help. I also see the kit has an adapter to put into the glow plug hole. Either way I'll get this done soon because I wanna know if its the pump OR something engine related (which it shouldnt be, but anything can happen).
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That didnt seem too accurate after getting that set.