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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Tomoturbo55 on December 18, 2021, 03:38:52 am
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I know that is talked about but something is wrong i had two testing pumps thet was kinda worn out and old so i tried all sorts of stuff, so when i tried to increasse pump preassure but on both pumps when i hit regulatin valve both times pump would let fuel back to tank, i time my pumps by ear, right before clatter, so when increassed preassure gave me more timing i retime it had more power i gr8 fuel economy compered to before, i hit regulating valve til i have about 0.5 liters of diesel a minute on the return fuel line on idle. Is there anywhere else i can increasse internal preassure because my regulating valve goes bad every time and even the swaping to new valve the pump is like going bad.
Next problem is governor mod, watched the thread carefuly did all good shimmed main spring about 5mm and now my rpms hang badly when im over 3k rpms it just goes on i have to shut down the car till it goes down. Tried adjsuting lever, residual screw, fuel screw very little improwment.
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What spring did you replace with shims for the governor mod?
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The big one i didnt replace it i put shims before her then the spring.
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I replace the small weak spring with shims.
Until they take up the slack.
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Thats the middle one or the big one? Everybody said main spring the big one is the one to shim
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Not everybody.
It's the little spring that holds the spring retainers about 1/16" apart.
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Well, today I changed to the stock spring, it's still the same issue. I don't understand what is it now. I even managed to break off the housing where the cover bolts too. Now I have a leaky pump I have several old pumps that do not seem to be working.
Btw does anybody know how to make a pump run that was sitting for a long time? I tried to spin it manually with an impact gun but it won't draw fuel.
Maybe pour some white vinegar in overnight?
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You need to soak that non-working pump. Fill it with a diesel purge or maybe a half and half mixture of automatic transmission fluid and diesel would work. The tiny squares of metal that are on the outside of the first stage of the pump are stuck in their slots. The Vane pump is frozen up. You need to get those to get free before you will get any pressure or fluid movement.
It may require you to dismantle the pump and clean it up. I would not suggest you do that as you have already broken one pump doing a simple chore. Find a friend that has repaired one of those pumps and ask him or her to watch over you and coach you doing it.
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The vane pump pulls the fuel.
You have to tear the whole pump down to get to the vanes and free them up.
It's not too hard once you've done it a couple times.
There are several videos on how to tear one down.
Seriously pretty easy. Just a couple special tools that can be made.
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I have taken down till camplate but never more than that, can the vane pump be taken out without throttle plate assembly? Because of that 3 side Bolt.
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The vane pump workings are underneath the cam plate. You also need to remove the piston from the side of the pump to remove the vane portion and there are tiny parts associated with the removal. Most people don't pay attention to the direction of the parts and put them in and their pumps are way off.
Generally referred to 180 degrees out.
Look to page two of this link for a picture of each part of the pump and decide if you want to "get into it" or not.
http://vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php/topic,4353.15.html
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That 3-sided bolt tool is pretty easy to make by cutting 3 sides off ,..
I think it's a 12mm 6-point socket.
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The vane pump workings are underneath the cam plate. You also need to remove the piston from the side of the pump to remove the vane portion and there are tiny parts associated with the removal. Most people don't pay attention to the direction of the parts and put them in and their pumps are way off.
Generally referred to 180 degrees out.
Look to page two of this link for a picture of each part of the pump and decide if you want to "get into it" or not.
http://vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php/topic,4353.15.html
I have seen bosch assembly video on youtube so its pretty straight foward, match the notch on pump driveshaft with camplate.
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That 3-sided bolt tool is pretty easy to make by cutting 3 sides off ,..
I think it's a 12mm 6-point socket.
Ohh i get it.
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Well, I built the pump it started well. Everything works so thank u guys.
Now I haven't found any threads about advancing or retarding cam timing for power. I am a little off and it seems like I have a lot of low-end power, it just spins the wheels when I floor it. But not much high-end power.
I like that high end with k24 turbo, it will go 55 mph in second gear but I have to wind it up for that
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Good that you have it working.
The only timing I do on these engines is the IP timing. I have heard you can advance the crank and increase the IP timing but I don't know it that works or not on the 1.6.
Maybe some of these folks that build their engines for insane boost and HP can tell you.
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I had the timing set with the flywheel mark off by about 1/4".
Lost power in the midrange.
Not sure which way it was off.
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My mark went about the same but to the front of the car. I will try the opposite side a bit and do some tests.
I overtightened the cam sprocket and now it won't come off, any advice?
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To remove the nut on the cam you can hold the cam itself with a wrench on the lobe and apply pressure to another wrench on the cam nut.
Are you pinning the IP with some kind of socket or bolt or the actual pin needed to keep it from rotating while you put the belt on from the bottom up?
The Crank should be set on TDC first then bring the belt up to the IP, then between the tensioner and the cam. I put the belt on the cam last as a loose pulley can turn a bit to get it to find a proper spot between the grooves on the belt and pulley.
Once I have the belt on I bring the tensioner up tight and check to be sure I have not moved the crank position in doing so.
It is an art more than a science as there are a few moving parts that can all move at the same time making it difficult to keep it all in line.
Maybe you can have someone hold a wrench on the crank nut to keep it from moving as you do the tensioner?
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No no i remove the bolt but the sprocket wont come off the camshaft, hitting it with hammer from the little hole but no luck.
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Soak it down with penetrating oil. If you had it able to move before it can't be on there that tight. Try you punch on both sides of the shaft to get it to come free. Wiggle it a bit by tapping lightly, very lightly on the edges of the pulley itself.
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Soak it down with penetrating oil. If you had it able to move before it can't be on there that tight. Try you punch on both sides of the shaft to get it to come free. Wiggle it a bit by tapping lightly, very lightly on the edges of the pulley itself.
Il try that
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Or use a gear puller.
They make special pullers for that sprocket.
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Well my car is fixed after right high pressure switch replacment oil filter, oil pump and oil change starts fine no oil buzzer anymore