VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Chestrockwell on June 13, 2006, 08:56:03 pm
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I'm looking for a set of head studs and hopefully main studs as well; does anyone have part numbers for either maker? They're for a 1.9 TD.
Thanks,
Chester.
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Since no one has replied to your inquiry maybe I can help a little. I have no direct exp. with the 1.9 since it wasn't used in the states, but if they use the same size cyl. head bolts as the 1.6 TD ( 12mmx 1.75 pitchx 115mm) then I can give you some info. Raceware on their website gives no part#s or applications you have to call. ARP lists no direct application for VW diesels but go to their site and look up the head stud kit for the Ford Escort with the Cosworth engine and it shows a 12mm kit , this is what most people use. You can call them for questions and they are helpful but seem to discourage directly ordering from them and will give you a list of suppliers where you live. I called Raceware in March '06 for a set of studs to use on a friends car and they were out of stock so I went the ARP route. I have since learned that passengerperformance.com a long time contributor on this site carries them but they are not shown on the website ,I would have preferred to spend my money with a VW diesel fanatic than some super store. Anyhow, this was my first exp with ARP but I have used Raceware studs on aircooleds and several 1.5 NA with 11mm studs and I believe they are better than stock head bolts. The ARP are very high quality. I hope this helps.
Pete
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These are the right ones for a 99.5-03 TDI, I'm not sure if they are the same for the 1.9 though.
(http://members.cox.net/mahoutsukai/arp/DSC02044.sized.jpg)
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Pete, thanks for the reply. Coincedentally I just ordered Raceware main and head stud kits an hour ago :twisted: Balance and hopefully crank gear upgrade next week or two! Hey and here's a question for everyone, would a windage tray do anything below 5000rpm on this 1.9?
Chester.
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Yeah I have switched to ARP hardware over raceware. I use the ford cosworth headstuds for the 1.6 and 1.9 idi engines as well as the tdi's. I use their mains and rod bolts as well. The thing I really like about the arps the most (besides better availability and cheaper price) is that they have a 5mm hex head on them so you can spin them in or out really easy.
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windage tray,use that "stock" one that has the gasket embossed on it ,i think theyare like 40-45 bux,
heh they(factory)call it a "sound insulator"
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I guess I'll have to check if mine has one... never looked..
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Good info, but does anyone know what the torque numbers would be?
mvptrukin; You have already fired your motor? If so what was the pattern for torqueing the heads down. Did you still use the same as stock bolts?? 30NM 45nm 90degrees and 90 degrees??
I am almost ready to redo my head again and would like to just change out the bolts now. Thanks for any help.
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Good info, but does anyone know what the torque numbers would be?
Steps for proper ARP installation on the A4 TDI:
1. Unpack and clean with alcohol all the parts (gets the sticky packing grease off of them)
2. Prepare all of the bolts before starting by covering them all with the included ARP installation grease that is included. Basically, get it in all of the threads and cover all the washers, and bolts so that they look "grease grey" all over. On the nuts use a q-tip to make the threads on the inside grey with the ARP grease.
3. Remove your plastic engine cover, and crank case cover.
4. You'll need a from Part MN0812 - 12 Point Driver Set from metalnerd.com or a similar 12 mm,12 point driver to remove the factory headstuds.
(NOTE: If you are going to use the metalnerd tool, it is long and will require you remove your EGR to get the one of the headstuds out. If you're removing the EGR, then this is a great time to cleaning out your intake and install an elephant hose, or CCV catch can and an Epsilonian device.)
5. Remove the 1st headstud. You will need a breaker bar, and it comes off with a scary "snap" sound.
6. Put your the first prepared ARP headstud in (allen wrench side up) and use an allen wrench to tighten it all the way down. Don't over tighten, just a little past snug.
7. Put the prepared washer and nut on the headstud and tighten it down Using a torque wrench and bring it to 65lbs. (ARP instructions on their website say to tighten, to something less than final torque, 5 times before final toque to seat the fastener correctly. Continue following these instructions to see how this is done)
8. Loosen it completely using a normal socket wrench (NEVER USE YOUR TORQUE WRENCH TO LOOSEN ANYTHING YOU'LL DESTROY IT!)
9. Use the torque wrench to tighten to 70lbs.
10. Loosen it completely using a normal socket wrench.
11. Use the torque wrench to tighten to 70lbs.
12. 10. Loosen it completely using a normal socket wrench.
13. Use the torque wrench to tighten to 70lbs.
14. Loosen it completely using a normal socket wrench.
15. Use the torque wrench to tighten to 70lbs.
16. Loosen it completely using a normal socket wrench.
17. Use the torque wrench to tighten to the final 80lbs.
18. Hooray! You've installed your first headstud, now just repeat steps #5-17 over and over again until you're done.
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I read the same thing jackbombay did on the ARP website although it didn't mention it in the directions included with the studs. The pamphlet that came with the studs gives the final torque spec as specific to their studs due to tensile strength and other factors as 80 and to follow the manufactures torque pattern. So I used almost the same method jackbombay used which if I understood ARP correctly is necessary only when the fasteners are new. The 90 degree turns that Bently says are specific to new stretch bolts not the ARP head studs. Also my application was on a 1.6 TD with 12mm bolts that my friend has and so far so good.
Thanx,
Pete
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I read the same thing jackbombay did on the ARP website although it didn't mention it in the directions included with the studs.
I was quite dissapointed that the directions included with the studs left out the proper torquing procedure, according to the web-site it is quite important.
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i did all the cycling stuff, thats very important..but back a few years ago, i contacted raceware and they said torque to 50 ft pounds,or 60 if you are boostin to the moon,anymore would ruin the studs(permanent stretched)
are u guys sayin i gotta go more on the torque???
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I talked to Randy at Raceware about a month ago, and he said tighten to 50, run to operating temp, let it cool then torque to 50 again.
EDIT: I think if you stretch the studs, you also crack your head.
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50?!?!??? I know that special lube that comes with the tuds is very slippery and the threads on the studs are quite fine so the clamping force of 50 lb/ft produces a whole lot of clamping force. I am confused as to why the web-site says 80 and on the phone they say 50.... :?:
On second observatioon the website doesn;t say 80 anywhere,
(http://members.cox.net/mahoutsukai/arp/ARPinstructions.GIF)
But the instructions from the box do say 80,
(http://members.cox.net/mahoutsukai/arp/ARPinstructions.sized.gif)
I torqued mine to 80, no problems yet, 23 PSI later this summer (TDI)
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Raceware specifies 50 (maybe sometimes 60) and NO special or slipery lube, only engine oil(+the special coating they put on the threads and the CNCd hardened washers)
ARP says 80 with special moly lube...
maybe the thread pitch is diferent, or their washers are less smooth.
Raceware also says use a beam torque wrench over a clicker.
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D'oh, I read the previouos posts too fast and confused the 2 :oops:
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Will these ARP studs need retorque after ~1000km, like stock bolts need.
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No I don't re torque them after 1000miles, nor do I retorque the stock ones after 1000miles, seems to eliminate early HG failures.
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Yeah I have switched to ARP hardware over raceware. I use the ford cosworth headstuds for the 1.6 and 1.9 idi engines as well as the tdi's. I use their mains and rod bolts as well. The thing I really like about the arps the most (besides better availability and cheaper price) is that they have a 5mm hex head on them so you can spin them in or out really easy.
Do you have any part #'s for 1.6 head studs from ARP? Considering about switching to them to eliminate possible HG failures from stretch bolts. :)
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204-5402, unless your head is completely straight or you are running over 35psi I wouldnt really bother, not a bad idea, but with a straight head and block deck, and new stretch bolts its pretty hard to blow a gasket.
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204-5402, unless your head is completely straight or you are running over 35psi I wouldnt really bother, not a bad idea, but with a straight head and block deck, and new stretch bolts its pretty hard to blow a gasket.
204-5402 are main studs. I used 251-4701 for head studs.
No I don't re torque them after 1000miles, nor do I retorque the stock ones after 1000miles, seems to eliminate early HG failures.
I retorqued after ~800km and hg lasted 15 minutes after that :shock: A couple of runs at 30psi with cheapo hg :roll: Well, itīs time to change to aaz metal gasket...
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204-5402, unless your head is completely straight or you are running over 35psi I wouldnt really bother, not a bad idea, but with a straight head and block deck, and new stretch bolts its pretty hard to blow a gasket.
204-5402 are main studs. I used 251-4701 for head studs.
No I don't re torque them after 1000miles, nor do I retorque the stock ones after 1000miles, seems to eliminate early HG failures.
I retorqued after ~800km and hg lasted 15 minutes after that :shock: A couple of runs at 30psi with cheapo hg :roll: Well, itīs time to change to aaz metal gasket...
Yes you are right, 204-5402 are mainstuds, and the 251-4701 are the headstuds, I just looked at an old box here and thought it was a headstud box not a mainstud box :oops:
Don't retorque your head after its running, seems to shift the gasket around and sometimes cause failures. Too bad its the factory spec, I've had to fix a lot of headgasket jobs where the owner put it all back together than soon after the re torque they blow a gasket.
1.9 metal HG never hurt 8)
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Anyone got part numbers for ARP rod bolts... for the 1.6TD?
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1.9 metal HG never hurt 8)
Got it running with metal gasket. Seems to work with mech head too :D
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Anyone got part numbers for ARP rod bolts... for the 1.6TD?
I called ARP and they had no idea. They want the length, thread size and under head length.
Thanks for the head stud and main stud numbers.
One more number and they'll all be listed in this post, for the next person who is searching.
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How long are main studs? I need a little longer studs than stock, but I canīt find any measurements :? Studs should be ~100-110mm long.
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So,
we have the ARP numbers for the:
Headstuds-------251-4701
Main studs------ 204-5402
Con Rod bolts---???-???
Has anyone determined what the con rod bolt numbers are yet?
Jim
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Are the 1.6 and the AAZ the same?
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I am very interested in upgrading my arp 12mm stud kit to a 13 mm kit. I just want some extra clamping force. Anyone know of a vehicle or part number that would use 13mm headstuds that would fit our blocks? I know i have to drill out and tap the block for the 13mm setup ( when i say I, I mean the shop).
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is anyone going to finally sticky this thread?
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It would be much more economoical to o ring or fire ring your head/block than to use 13mm studs, I think 13mm studs would be unecessary.
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im just thinking if the head is lifting that much at 27 psi to blow a headgasket then wouldnt it make sense for more clamping force? I know about the o-ringing and i am 100 % going to do it. I want to raise my boost pressure alot by summer and a squirt of nitrous. But if you think it wouldnt make sense to go to 13mm then i probably wont do it. what do you think about helicoiling head bolts assuming it is properly done?
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What brand gaskets are you using? Victor Reinz is the best gasket for VW IDI.
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victor reinz 3 notch multi layered steel gaskets held down with arp 1mm stud kit
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victor reinz 3 notch multi layered steel gaskets held down with arp 1mm stud kit
Well there's your problem, 1mm studs. :lol:
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DOH **homer** damn i knew i over looked something....those damn parts guys. What i meant to say was 12mm :lol:
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So anyone find a Con Rod # yet?
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Connecting rods are out. What measurements do I need in order for the Folks at ARP to figure out a part number? Tell me please what measuerments, and how to get them. I would like to order the head studs, mainset, and connnecting rod bolts tommorow.
Thanks,
Jim
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I think they need to know that the heads are round... maybe the diameter.
The diameter of the section that is pressed into the rod.
...and the length.
I was messing with this and the threads on them are 9Mx1. 9mm, with 1mm threads.
I don't suppose the threads need to be the same but it gives you an idea of the diameter.
I'm thinking they might be the same as on the VW 1.8 gasser engine.... if you can find that out for sure let us know, that's an easy application to find. They don't usually list the ARP parts for a VW diesel engine.
They talk about using small block chevy(?) rod bolts because they are so much cheaper... difference being the tops are oval shaped and wouldn't hold as well.
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Just contacted ARP via e-mail with info. I am waiting on contact from them. I will post with any relevant info.
Would it be better to just pull one of the bolts and mail it to them?
On the ARP line of this thread, I was told recently that you could strengthen the 020 transmission by replacing some internal rivits with arp bolts? Subject came up when I was talking about looking for a stronger tranny to prevent failure when running increased HP. Will have to call back the guy I was talking to. Does anyone have any knowledge of this?
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Sounds like this is what you are referring too. Ring gears are attached to differential by rivets on most production transmissions. Service in this area involved drilling out rivets and replacing with a special bolt kit. The VW PN was 171 498 088 A for the kit. Regards
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You sir are the information guru!
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I was also going to get one of these ring gear kits however I thought that if the whole trans was going to be apart then I'd definitely have a limited slip diffenential in while It was apart.I'll take a risk on the rivits and If they go then I won't mess around :wink:.My engines have been making anywhere between 110-160+ whp and I have not yet had any issues while driving like I stole it not like I'm trying to break it.
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html
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If someone happens to have a spare 1.9td connecting rod laying about, I would appreciate it if you could send it to me. Why you may ask? I have solved the riddle. I will have the ARP part number for the 1.6TD connecting rod bolts in 2-3 weeks. If someone will send me a 1.9TD connecting rod, I will be able to supply that number as well. Send it complete, the whole rod, minus bearings.
:D :D :D
Jim
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If someone happens to have a spare 1.9td connecting rod laying about, I would appreciate it if you could send it to me. Why you may ask? I have solved the riddle. I will have the ARP part number for the 1.6TD connecting rod bolts in 2-3 weeks. If someone will send me a 1.9TD connecting rod, I will be able to supply that number as well. Send it complete, the whole rod, minus bearings.
:D :D :D
Jim
Send me a PM with your address.
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But the 1.9 has two different bolts, one style for the earlier and one for the later. Is the 1.6 bolt the same as one of these or is it unique? If so, then you need 2 connecting rods for the 2 different AAZ styles.
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Addautomotive pm sent. Jimfoo, I was unaware of this as I am a stateside guy. I guess I need one of each. Addautomotive, do you know which AAZ style you have?
If there is enough interest, perhaps we could use the power of the free market place and place a group buy order to save some cash. I am getting my ARP parts through a friend at an auto supply house. Cost plus 5% aint bad. Bulk buy might be better though.
Jim
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I have been working with a guy at ARP to solve the Connecting Rod bolt riddle. If I send him one of each Con Rod (complete, rod cap bolt and nuts) he will go through all of the stock bolts they have in order to see which ones will be the best match, and will offer the best clamping force. This way there should be no clearence issues, and the guess work will be taken out of it. They will come with the correct ARP nuts as well. I asked if the titanium bolts would save enough weight to be worth the cost. I was told that it would not be cost effective. Oh well. I am sending my 1.6TD Connecting Rod, Addautomotive is going to supply a 1.9TD Connecting Rod. Jimfoo brought up that the AAZ might have two different styles of Connecting Rods, Early and later models. Can anyone verify this? I would like to have this project cover all the bases if possible. What about The TDI Rods? Would there be an interest in finding a ARP match for these?
Let me know what you think.
Jim
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Forgot to mention, Either I can ship these from my location, I will cover shipping to ARP, ARP will ship back and then I will have to ship back to you. The other option would be to determine individuals who own one of each type of connecting rod, and each mail our own. I just dont want the ARP guy to get 12 1.6TD connecting rods in the mail :shock: :lol:
1.6TD (MF)------------Subsonic
1.9TD (AAZ)----------Addautomotive Need to determine which versian.
1.9TD
1.9TDI (1Z ?) --------Is that correct?
1.9TDI (??)------------
Any others?
Once a member volunteers and figures out how they want to ship, PM me and I will send you all the contact info.
This will be really good info to have up once it is complete. Once it is complete, it will also be a nice time to post a group buy in the WTB/For Sale section.
Jim
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I believe that the later AAZ conrod bolts will be the same as the 1z/ahu rod bolts as the rods are somewhat similar.The later aaz rod bolts are fully threaded and can not be reused and the earlier style bolts are partially threaded and are reuseable.I don't believe that there is a need for any better rod bolts on any of these 1.9 IDI/TDI engines(head and main studs yes) possibly someone else could comment??
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I'll have a look at the conrods I have; I believe the engine is a 94... it was a freebie.
I'll post a pic tomorrow
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I believe that the later AAZ conrod bolts will be the same as the 1z/ahu rod bolts as the rods are somewhat similar.The later aaz rod bolts are fully threaded and can not be reused and the earlier style bolts are partially threaded and are reuseable.I don't believe that there is a need for any better rod bolts on any of these 1.9 IDI/TDI engines(head and main studs yes) possibly someone else could comment??
The earlier ones are fully threaded, the later and 1Z/AHU bolts have a double shoulder to align both rod halves. The earlier ones have pins. Here is a pic of an earlier bolt. I bought the later ones first as I thought my engine was a '96.
I don't think either are supposed to be reused.
(http://members.ai5.net/[email protected]/bolt.jpg)
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yea... i bought a 12 pt 12mm socket for the head bolts on my TDI... pull the valve cover to find out that its the opposite...!!! oh well i'll still put it to good use :)
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Good ol tripple square. Took me a while to find what it was so that I could buy the right tool. Even then, the auto parts store guy didn't know what it was even though he had it.
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I was just pulling up the summit catalog and looking at the main studs 204-5402. In the discription it says will not work with windage tray.
Anyone had this problem with the 1.6td. Just to make sure, that is the part number for the 1.6 and not the 1.9, correct?
Jim
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Anyone find a good place to buy the 1.6 ARP kits?
So far I got, 251-4701 Head bolts, 204-5402 Mains.
Anyone find the ARP # for the con rod bolts?
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Patience grasshopper. My Connecting Rods are enroute to ARP so they can try and find the ones with the best fit. As soon as I know, I will post them so we can move the info to the FAQ section.
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Patience grasshopper. My Connecting Rods are enroute to ARP so they can try and find the ones with the best fit. As soon as I know, I will post them so we can move the info to the FAQ section.
:lol:
:wink:
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Unsure if this was asked before .... the part# 204-5402 says it won't fit with the windage tray, but I just bought the diesel oil pan baffle for my TD project. Does this mean I need to find another bolt kit to use with this baffle?
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My friend just got some for his 1.6 TD and he used ARP G60 rod bolts.
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And these worked just fine?
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To be honest the engine isn't together yet but they are in the rods. And i'll keep you posted on the progress to see how they work.
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Cool thanks!
Anyone know about this?
.... the part# 204-5402 says it won't fit with the windage tray, but I just bought the diesel oil pan baffle for my TD project. Does this mean I need to find another bolt kit to use with this baffle?
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Cool thanks!
Anyone know about this?
.... the part# 204-5402 says it won't fit with the windage tray, but I just bought the diesel oil pan baffle for my TD project. Does this mean I need to find another bolt kit to use with this baffle?
I'm gonna drill out the stud holes if need be and still use the baffle. Question answered. 8)
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I got off the phone with the ARP rep today. All my parts made it there. I sent him my connecting rods and my oil pump bolts. I should know in the next day or so the part numbers for the rod bolts. I decided to replace my oil pump bolts just as cheap insurance. He will match those up as well. I hope they fit the newer style 36mm pump. Did someone say the newer ones are longer?
I asked about the main studs and the catalog note about not using these with a windage tray. What I was told was that if the windage tray attaches to the main caps/bolts/studs, then the stud has a step down that the windage tray goes on and is attached. The main studs # 204-5402 do not have this step down. Is this how the windage tray attaches on our set-ups?
Jim
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The windage tray doubles as the oil pan gasket on VW's.
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So the oil pan holds it on? Do you need longer oil pan bolts? If this is the case then the main studs should fit with out problem, correct?
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Don't think you need longer bolts, as the windage tray doubles as the oil pan gasket. It should only be 2mm or so thicker.
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ARP part #s
Head Studs..........................251-4701
Main Studs...........................204-5402
Con Rod bolts 1.6 and 1.7......104-6002
Trans ring gear bolt kit 020 ...204-3001
Oil pump bolts.......................661-1014
Hope this helps
Jim
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And which of these are the same on a 1.9?
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ARP part #s
Head Studs..........................251-4701
Main Studs...........................204-5402
Con Rod bolts 1.6 and 1.7......104-6002
Trans ring gear bolt kit 020 ...204-3001
Oil pump bolts.......................661-1014
Hope this helps
Jim
Saweeeet! :wink:
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Are the 1.6 conrod bolts the same as an early or late 1.9 bolt?
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The head studs are the ones that were reccommended on this site. They should fit both 1.9 and 1.6. Correct me if I am wrong.
Same deal with the main studs. Got the info from here.
Con rod bolts, I sent my rods to ARP for them to check and find correct replacement size. This is what they reccommend. I would have sent in 1.9 rods but no one sent me any. I will pass along my contact info at ARP if someone wants to send some. These rod bolts are for the 1.6 and 1.7. I was told they offered about an additional 20,000 psi of strength and a much greater shear strength. I do not know if they will fit a 1.9
The trans ring gear bolt kit is for the 020 tranny's.
The oil pump bolts are direct replacement for the bolts out of my pump. I do not know if these are the same size as the newer 36mm pump people are talking about here on the site. Anyone know if the 36mm uses different size bolts?
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Well, thanks for the research. :D My 1.9 had just been put together, so I didn't want to tear a rod out. Maybe I can send them an old bolt to match up.
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That might work. If anyone else has the 1.9 rods and they want to send them to the ARP rep let me know. I'll pass you his info. It was pretty easy. 8 bucks for the priority us postal box, any weight, and ARP ships back to you. Of course I insured my rods for the cost of replacement-With custom high performance rods! I almost wished they had been lost :)
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Ordered rods, mains and head studs from Summit today. I searched around locally and couldn't find a better price on all parts. Some places one part was cheaper, but others were 10 bucks more.
Quick and easy = Summit.
:wink:
P.S. thanks for the #'s subsonic. 8)
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subsonic, thanks for checking this out, I've been wondering this for awhile.
Are you goign to try to arrainge a group buy for the 1.6TD rod bolts?
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Summit appears to be the cheapest. I will contact them and find out if they will offer any discounts for bulk buys.
Contacted them today. No volume discounts. Sorry.
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Got mines last week, they look great and installing in 2 weeks or so after the motor is ready. :wink:
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$120 seems like alot for bolts. Would I get by with stock bolts for a 1.6 N/A?
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They are stronger and reuseable unlike the stock bolts. You can get by just fine with stock. The ARP are supposed to be better for modded engines.
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OK I'll go with stock for now.
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Well now,
there seams to be a run on the 1.6TD ARP Connecting Rod bolts :)
I ordered mine a few days back and was told that they are now on back order. Hmmm... Lots of building going on in diesel land?
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:D
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Summit appears to be the cheapest. I will contact them and find out if they will offer any discounts for bulk buys.
Contacted them today. No volume discounts. Sorry.
I got my main studs and rod bolts from Crosby Machine.
http://www.headbolts.com/
ARP 1.6 to 2.0 rabbit golf and jetta main stud kit 204-5402 $99.99
ARP 1.6 rabbit rod bolts 104-6002 $89.99
Shipping is 6.95 all over the US
He doesnt show the cosworth head studs but Im sure if you ask he will be able to get them
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Yep, sure looks that way. My con rod bolts are on back order and I held off on the mains. Perhaps a few phone calls are in order.
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Well imagine my suprise. The brick and mortar for this web site is 10 min. from my work. I went and talked to the owner. He orders his ARP stuff once per month. He had just placed this months order. Some yahoo from Kansas just picked up his last main studs kit :lol:
I talked to him about the Head Studs. He said that he does not stock that part because he does not see that many Cosworth Escorts :shock: . I informed him about the cross fit of these parts for our Diesel applications. He looked up his costs for this part and it was more than Summit's. I talked with him for a while and he said he might be able to match the summit price. He will look at his price structure for offering these three components as a package deal.
I informed him of the back order status of the con rod bolts from summit. He informed me that it may just be summit. He will call ARP and check availability.
He group orders with another vendor in order to get his better prices. If he orders early, they wack him with some additional fee's.
If he can match summit on the head studs, than this will be the best deal going, even with shipping costs. Of course the walk in the door pick up will save an extra 6 bucks :)
He will e-mail me tonight about this.
He may just update his page, or pass on the info to me, who knows. It would be helpful if we could give him a rough idea of interest. He was worried about shelling out a bunch of cash for stock that would sit and not sell.
Let ya know as I hear something. Jim
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Well coolness.
Look at the thread I just started and you will see where those mains are. :D
Tell him thanks by the way...
I will be buying stuff from him for the 302s I have to build in the future.
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Here is a copy of the e-mail from the owner of www.headbolts.com .
He is going to place a order next weds. He is going to order 2 sets of rod bolts, 2 sets of main studs, and 1 set of head studs. I am going to take 1 set of rod bolts and one set of the mains. I may return my head studs to summit. They neglected to tell me about thier 10.00 "handling fee" that goes with the "FREE" shipping. If so I will be buying some head studs from him.
If anyone else wants some, they should order before next wed so he can get it in on his order to arp. He does not have the Head studs listed on his site. You will need to send him a e-mail at [email protected] .
a
okay this what i found out so far
on the june 31 I placed my stock order , at that time
I had the mains and the rod bolts on the shelf so I did not order more ,
then I sold out overnight of my stock , then I drained the stock of to
other warehouses ,they had already placed there stock orders again they had
them on the shelf when they did the order so they did not order more ,the I
got the ones they had
so I am waiting for my stock order to come in
it is looking like I will place a small emergency stock order next weds,
maybe sooner but i can not place that one untill i get the last order
so far it looks like I will order 2 sets of rods and two sets of mains and a
set of the head studs , you have to tell what you are using them for because
if I just list them for the for I will never sell them of course i will not
put them on the site untill i have them in stock
[/quote]ARP 1.6 to 2.0 rabbit golf and jetta main stud kit 204-5402 $99.99
ARP 1.6 rabbit rod bolts 104-6002 $89.99
Shipping is 6.95 all over the US
Anyone know if the head and main studs fit the 1.9TD as well?
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Prices as follows:
Head Studs--118.95
Main Studs--99.99
Con Rod Bolts--89.99
Shipping-- 6.95 continental US
This beats summit hands down.
He said he will not ship to Canada.
I may be able to help with that since I can just pick up at his shop. I don't know whats involved with the whole cross border thing.
Jim
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Funny thing about NAFTA, it seems to only help corperations, not people.
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Free trade eh? not likely.
A order to ARP is being made on tuesday. Order now or wait for the next order cycle- 2-3 weeks.
Jim
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Has the new parts and prices listed.
http://headbolts.com/Volkswagon-Audi-diesel-fasteners.html
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I got my head bolts and rod bolts from summit, they were great.
It was UPS that screwed me!!!! :evil:
I prepaid for shipping and UPS scammed me out of 79.81 CDN in customs fees COD! I hope that company rots in HELL!!!
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I took a look at his new site update and he has the ARP head bolts listed as working for the 1.5.
Headstuds are a great idea for the 11mm headbolt block, I hope people don't order these thinking they will work for all 1.5s and 1.6s.
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Yeah, The 11mm/12mm thing would be a issue wouldnt it. Send him a e-mail. He was unaware of the cosworth/vw connection. I told him about it and he put the stuff up on his site. He is more than willing to listen and adjust accordingly. If I remember, he is cheaper than summit, plus there is not that bogus $10 handleing fee.
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Do we have a number for Rod Bolts for the TDI??
Brendan
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I don't know what it is. I while back I sent my rods to ARP to have them measure them and get the correct part number. A bit back in this post I think someone brought up there might be some variations by year. I will pass off the contact info for the guy at ARP if someone wants to send him a rod so he can do the match up, 1.9idi or TDI
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Yeah, The 11mm/12mm thing would be a issue wouldnt it. Send him a e-mail.
You do it, you're his buddy.
... Ok, I sent him an email rubbing his mistake in his face. :lol:
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I checked over at autohausAZ, and the 1.5/early1.6 diesels used the same size headbolts as the 1.7 gasser.
This page on the headbolts.com site:
http://headbolts.com/volks.html
shows 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8 gassers all use the same headbolt so I'm thinking the 204-4203 ARP headbolts (for the 1.8/2.0, 8 valve), should fit the 1.7 gasser and the 1.5 diesel....
or do we want the, "12 pt nuts with under cut studs 204-4701"?
It's kinda weird, he names the 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8 as all using the same headbolt but the head studs are for the 1.8 and 2.0, 8 valvers,... so do the headbolts for the 8 valve; 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8 fit the 2.0?
He has some work to do, getting the site straightened out but he's getting there. I emailed him but ARP didn't give him that info, so we need to help him with that research.