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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: masterbeavis on May 07, 2006, 12:17:16 am
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I pulled my injectors to get them tested. I bought new heat sheilds, I cant get one of the shields out. THe one cylinder that had excessive carbon buildup around the injector is now giving me fits trying to get the heat shield off. I've tried cleaning the carbon off, PB blaster, a small screwdriver with a notch cut into it to pry up on the shield, beating on it with a brass punch, nothing seems to make it budge. Once I get the timing belt installed, I plan on cranking over the engine for a minute, (no fuel lines hooked up) hoping maybe the cylinder pressure will blow it out (or at least make a cool whistling noise) Anything I miss?? The manuals (VW factory, and bentley) make no mention on what to do when you are screwed.
Thanks again
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They're slightly snug but "should" lift right out. Take an awl or something sturdier than brass and stick it right into the center of the heat-shield ( the hole the injector fires through) and see if you can get the shield to "rock" in the hole to break it free, hopefully thats all it takes. Don't worry, doesn't sound like it'll be damaged anymore than it is. Sounds like it (the shield) has previously been re-used and the injector got over-torqued when re-installed or it was installed upside down.
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its taken more than that. If it resists ether's will to shoot it across the yard when introduced to flame, you know I got trouble (Yes, it looked cool, but nothing happened)
I dont want to beat on the shield much harder than I have already. I dont want to somehow damage the seat, and cost myself another hundred dollars on the $150 truck. If I had fingers for my slide hammer that was small enough, that would be the ticket for gettiner done. I have thought about threading something into the hole and adapting it to my slide hammer, but I take the chance of metal shavings in the motor. :pissedoff:
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when one of mine was stuck apprently because the heat shield was put in backwards, my mechanic said he lubed it up real good, threw a good towel over the engine, and cranked it, popped right out.
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so he used the cars own compression to force the shield out.... good idea.
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Yup, like Libbybapa said, screw in long screw an work your slide-hammer with that.
Alain
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I can verify the compression method, be sure to disconnect the injector pump solenoid wire and stand clear.
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e-z out
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screw the wood screw in and THEN try the cranking it over. It'll probably make a hole in the ceiling. :shock:
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I'd be inclined to use a propane torch to burn the carbon away and get it unstuck. Hammering on it with a brass or any other kind of punch is not a good idea unless you want to buy a new head. You could also get a very long large diameter wood screw and screw it into the center of the heat shield and pull on that.
Andrew
yea,,propane torch is a good idea,,,some deutz engines use the same exact heatshield,and we have done this at work to get em out,heat it then "screw it"!!!!
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I use a tapered punch to remove stuck inj heatshields and other copper washers used with inj's.Just tap the punch in then wiggle it around.A screwdriver that fits into the hole works too.Note: make sure the punch isn't excessively longer than needed,as it could damage the glow plug's tip thats not far below the heatshield :wink:.
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I tried plugging the hole with a screw and cranking the motor over, no luck. The propane torch did the trick! I heated it up some, put the screw back in gently pushed the screw head to one side, it popped right out!!
Thanks guys, I appreciate it!! (http://beer.thisdysfunctional.org/forum/images/smilies/beer.gif)
(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a315/Masterbeavis/heatshieldfix.jpg)
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No Charge!! Glad we could help ...........
Looks like it was installed facing the right way, either it was reused or the injector wasn't torqued good enough for it to carbon in that bad.
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Now! Ladies and gentlemen, this is why you replace the darn things every time the injectors are removed. After they are "squished" when first installed new they don't spring back when removed. If used a second time they may (probably) not seal correctly. This lets carbon into the injector well. A stuck seal is reletavely easy to fix but if the carbon leak is bad enough the threads can gall during injector removal ruining the head.
Seals can be reused if formed back to their origional shape. I made a tool to go in an Arbor press and press them back into their origional shape. I have reused some seals many times without a leak.
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if you reset them they're fine to use again.
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i know people that reused them with out any problems, i know i didn't have any troubles, and i wouldn't be afraid to do it again, unles someone really has something very convincing to say
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They are less than a $1 each,why would you ever reuse them ?? :roll:
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They are less than a $1 each,why would you ever reuse them ?? :roll:
And can be gotten ANYWHERE, Napa, Autozone, ANY Federated francise.
I keep at least one extra set around. I'll Mickey-mouse a lot of things, but not this.
Alain
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ilove yer avatar??that dude is nuts!!!sweet!! :D
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Now! Ladies and gentlemen, this is why you replace the darn things every time the injectors are removed. After they are "squished" when first installed new they don't spring back when removed. If used a second time they may (probably) not seal correctly. This lets carbon into the injector well. A stuck seal is reletavely easy to fix but if the carbon leak is bad enough the threads can gall during injector removal ruining the head.
Seals can be reused if formed back to their origional shape. I made a tool to go in an Arbor press and press them back into their origional shape. I have reused some seals many times without a leak.
I used anti seize on the threads in case there is another carbon problem, at least this time I wont worry about breaking the injector off in thead trying to get it out(no antiseize on the sealing washer)
I will pass on re-using the seals(even with a tool that re-forms them.) $3.07 each is cheap piece of mind for no leaks(or cheaper if you buy them online )