VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: absalom on July 02, 2016, 10:20:00 pm
-
Just picked up a 1995 Sidekick with a 1.6TD HO. Took it offroad for it's maiden voyage today, and was very disappointed. If I were I accelerating up a hill in first, I couldn't shift into 2nd without it falling flat on it's face and decelerating with zero boost. So, I'd have to run 3,500 rpms' at 10 miles an hour on these fire roads in 1st gear unable to utilize second. It almost felt like a 2 stroke with zero power offboost, and having to slip the clutch just to get it to move. Also, boost wouldn't even begin to start to build until about 2,400 rpms. Is this motor just not suited to altitude? Suggestions?
Some important tidbits:
-I wheel almost exclusively at 7,000-10,000 feet
-It's the 1.6 TD HO w/ LDA
-It has a K14 turbo
-The truck is intercooled
-
Stock gearing and tires?
Waste Gate stuck open or part open?
Blow off valve leaking boost?
Restricted intake or exhaust? (disconnect the inter-cooler for troubleshooting)
Does the engine smoke and what colour is it?
-
Stock gearing and tires?
Waste Gate stuck open or part open?
Blow off valve leaking boost?
Restricted intake or exhaust? (disconnect the inter-cooler for troubleshooting)
Does the engine smoke and what colour is it?
I'll work through this whole list tomorrow.
Let's say someone had hypothetically installed a 2" catalytic converter meant for gas engines on their 2.5" exhaust for purposes of emissions testing, would this be enough to cripple performance?
The engine puts out black smoke under load when not on the boost. No other shades of smoke have been noticed.
Stock-ish (pretty damn close) size tires and gearing.
I noticed you have a similar setup in your Samurai. Is it a dog below 3k rpms? Right now, mine is a huge PITA offroad with inclines, etc.
-
I need to update that....
I just finished pulling the 1.6 and installing a 1.9aaz. I had oil leaking pretty badly out of #4 cylinder and other smoke issues. All issues combined ans well as past history made me think a different motor was the way to go.
Work on getting the engine to breathe better. Loose the intercooler (temporary) loose the cat (permanent) Air filter? Muffler?
Black smoke is fuel that hasn't been burned. This could be because of the above restrictions or because the motor is working too hard (shouldn't be with stockish setup)
No, even with all the issues I had with the 1.6td, it ran reasonably well with half decent power. Then again, I thought it pretty stellar to get up to 8000 feet in this part of the world.... Acceleration from traffic lights would be normal with no issue in keeping up with traffic.
No, it was not a power house, and there were times I had to chug up a hill in first. This usually involved having the family of four in the rig and some steep inclines.
The issue is, what you consider a second gear hill may be what I consider a first gear hill and no way to validate the %grade of the hill.
How does it perform around town?
Did I mention loose the cat?
I notice you found Zuwharrie....
-
My aaz in the samurai was the same when the fuel screw was turned out too far.but if your smoking off boost that probably isn't the case. You should have plenty of torque especially in low gear. Maybe have a look at the timing or try another set of injectors?
-
Which turbo? What's your elevation? The behavior sounds completely normal for a K24 or T3 @ 5,000' or above.
-
Which turbo? What's your elevation? The behavior sounds completely normal for a K24 or T3 @ 5,000' or above.
K14 @ 7,000 feet.
-
I'll trade you a k03 for your k14?
-
A K14@7,000' should have a boost threshold around 2,500 rpms. A K03 will have a boost threshold just above idle.
-
A K14@7,000' should have a boost threshold around 2,500 rpms. A K03 will have a boost threshold just above idle.
So, in my case, I should trade for a K03? Is it a direct bolt up?
-
I'll trade you a k03 for your k14?
Do you have an AAZ manifold for it?
-
Yup I can throw in the downpipe as well. Send me a pm.
-
I took off the cat, and have seen a decent improvement in accel at low rpms, which brings me to my next question.
The PO did the conversion, and installed the EGT gauge after the turbo, which is a big no-no in my experience. He also installed a 26" VW radiator, as well as a vegetable oil conversion using coolant lines as a means to heat the tank. Driving this truck is exhausting in it's current state for the following reasons:
- It's incredibly easy to pass 900F EGT's while merging on the freeway. From what I understand, 1200F pre-turbo ~= 900F post-turbo.
- Coolant temps are slow to rise, and the truck will overheat when pushed on slow, steep grades.
The fueling is completely stock as evidenced by the boost aneroid diaphragm, the off-boost fueling set screw, and the anti-tamper device still present on the main fuel screw.
Out of the box do these motors just run very hot? Are the coolant lines running to the veggie oil tank interfering with the factory operation of the cooling sysem? I can't imagine VW intended the average buyer needing to babysit their gauges like this. Any suggestions?
-
You cannot simply add a certain amount to the post turbine temp to determine the pre-turbine temp. There are several factors that determine the difference. The largest factor is the pressure difference which will vary significantly depending on boost pressure being run, turbine efficiency, etc... Those factors render a post-turbine reading virtually meaningless.
The anti-tamper device (welded on collar) does not mean that the max fuel has not been turned up. Even with the collar in place, typically you can still do an additional turn or so IN of the max fuel screw. That extra turn makes a MASSIVE change to max fuel.
Stock TD vehicles in proper order do not overheat.
What diameter is the exhaust? If it is smaller than 2.25" then you will have lower EGTs and faster turbo spool with it increased.
Adding an intercooler will lower EGTs. It will also allow you to more safely and effectively increase boost above stock. If you increase boost without increasing fuel, you will gain a bit of power and EGTs will go *down*.
-
I have 2.5" straight pipe. It also has an intercooler. Yea, I really need to pull the manifold and tap for EGT.
-
Increasing max boost from 10 psi to 15 or so (manual boost controller) without increasing fueling will both increase power and reduce EGTs.
-
Increasing max boost from 10 psi to 15 or so (manual boost controller) without increasing fueling will both increase power and reduce EGTs.
My EGT's are troublesome before I'm even at peak boost tho. You're right, however, I do need to bring up the boost to 15
-
Transient EGT highs wouldn't concern me much. High EGTs post turbine before boost comes on probably just mean the turbo isn't stealing heat yet. Sustained high EGTs that continue to climb is where you need to start worrying.
Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk