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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Smoker on February 03, 2016, 04:26:38 am
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Well, I searched, but didn't find any recent or conclusive answers, just a bunch of "I think" from various forums from 5 years ago. So, to the knowledgeable diesel people...
What do I torque the nuts to on a mostly stock 1.6td? I know the studs are supposed to go finger tight into the block. I'm using a fiber gasket.
I've read discussions about arp moly lube vs 30wt oil as a thread lube, with the torque values being higher if you use oil. Any input here? The studs are used... I bought the car with a timing belt failure, and didn't know it had head studs till I pulled it apart. The washers and nuts have been in a ziplock bag, and obviously oily from being in the car. I'm hoping the oil residue from before qualifies as sufficient lube...?
I'm pretty excited to get this thing back together. I've owned a bunch of tdi's and n/a 1.6's, but this is my first 1.6td. SUPPOSEDLY it has a Giles pump. Can't wait to see how it runs!
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i think i'd get the right arp lube, its not expensive, and you're going to want to clean the studs, the nuts and the blocks threads first anyway. i would use what ever spec arp gave with those studs. the studs have finer threads than stock bolts so any torque value you're giving with a torque wrench on these studs is going to be giving more clamping force than the same value on the stock bolts.
heres the small pack for 1.64, i think a bigger one is around 10 bucks. maybe if you call arp they will even mail you some for free they have pretty good customer service.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9908?seid=srese1&gclid=CN_qw7bS28oCFdQYHwodgKsIFw
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I'd second the recommendation to use the proper lube.
As to the torque spec - the older ARP studs were made from a different material than the newer ones. The final torque with ARP lube was supposed to be something like 80 ft-lbs on the old ones but that didn't seem to actually work on the VW diesels. (those studs were actually for a Ford Cosworth). Folks found they had to go up to 100+ ft-lbs to get them to seal. The new material studs need to go higher than that even, I can't recall the torque but it is listed on ARPs website.
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I have torqued mine from 80 to 120 and I have the old ford cosworth studs in my 1.6. I personally do a 5 or 6 step process and around 100-110 ft lbs I find the best. Since yours have been heat cycled I think you should have no issues.