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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: moTthediesel on October 06, 2015, 05:22:29 am
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This is not IDI specific, but I thought it might help somebody out sometime:
I had to remove the VNT15 from my hydraulic 1.6 in order to do a head gasket job. I know I had used lots of anti-seize on those fasteners when I put it together only about 12k miles ago, but still, one of the 8mm bolts sheared right off when I put a wrench on it. On examination, it looks like the bolt had been cracked for some time, as you can see in this pic.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E9Og3kdDpjM/VhL5BwTZiWI/AAAAAAAAEaI/ktYOoZgiOGE/s640-Ic42/15%252520-%2525201.jpg)
There was a good bit of the bolt exposed, and I could have just tried a vice grip on it, or maybe even two ground down nuts locked against each other, but I have a favorite technique in these cases. I found a larger hex nut that would drop over the bolt, in this case a 3/8". Then I sawed off the bolt so that it would extend about half way up into the nut, as you see here.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xIPhuMPJFU4/VhL5Omh-90I/AAAAAAAAEaY/hy4XkqiEWOQ/s640-Ic42/15%252520-%2525201.jpg)
The I got out the MIG welder. I set the AMPs pretty high, as heat is the whole point here. I carefully filled the cavity in the nut with weld bead, then let it cool.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VspnXSxXb1I/VhL5FO6fqpI/AAAAAAAAEaQ/TkcTgJraNbs/s640-Ic42/15%252520-%2525201.jpg)
I put a socket on it then and turned it out, it came right out with ease.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ysQaPcZF294/VhL5lQ1L7fI/AAAAAAAAEao/DFVKy0ASu1Y/s640-Ic42/15%252520-%2525201.jpg)
There you have it -- no promises, but that trick has never failed for me.
Tom
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Thanks I have this exact problem but even less threads to work with. I'll give that a try.
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If it is flush/below the surface, you can use a fender washer instead with the appropriate ID to avoid welding to the surrounding metal. Usually vice-grips on the OD of the washer works, but it is also possible to then weld a nut to the washer.
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I find the mass of the block/head provides plenty of heat sink to keep the weld from buggering the threads even if its broke surprisingly far below flush.
I usually try to remove wile still pretty hot, theory being if the bolt is still soft, it will conform to the threads.