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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: 96_yota on September 06, 2015, 09:16:59 pm
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New here and to the VW 1.6, i'm swapping a 1.6 td engine code CY into a 1980 Toyota pickup. I picked up the engine from a guy off of craigslist (miles unknown) after searching for months, only thing missing is the intake manifold so ill need to find one of those. Im going to go ahead and rebuild the engine before we drop it into my truck. I pulled the engine apart and pulled the head off of it to find on the top of three of the pistons markings that say 76.98mm along with a few other numbers, Ive read that stock bore on the 1.6 is 96.5mm so has this engine been over bored in the past? When I pulled the head it was pretty clean on the inside can still see some of the cross hatching in the cylinders but there is a rust ring in at least two of the cylinders, im hoping this can be honed out. I pulled the rod caps and there was minor wear on the bearings crank could probably be polished and run again.
The head has very small cracks between the valves (common ive read), cam had minor wear on it (haven't removed it and checked the followers for any damage yet). My plan is to get the head to a machine shop and get it checked out replace and guides/seals/springs/valves if needed and possibly port the head while its off. Plans so far if the bottom end checks out and just needs bearings/hone/rings, MLS head gasket, ARP studs, ported head, new valve seals, new oil pump/water pump, gaskets throughout, maybe a turbo upgrade, we will put a intercooler on it and fab up the cold side piping.
Now my question is can anyone tell me if these are stock pistons? I don't see why someone would replace only three of the pistons but also don't see why the factory would only mark three of the pistons. Anything you guys would replace along with what ive said? Im going to make an adapter plate to use the factory Toyota 5 speed trans, going to mark TDC while the head is off.
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(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd308/86_LX/Mobile%20Uploads/20150906_220313_zpsedf17468.jpg)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd308/86_LX/Mobile%20Uploads/20150906_220139_zps13a688f6.jpg)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd308/86_LX/Mobile%20Uploads/20150906_220503_zpsb81721bb.jpg)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd308/86_LX/Mobile%20Uploads/20150906_220520_zps4ef28439.jpg)
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Answered my own question, looks like three of the cylinders are bored .020" over. I guess its time to strip the block and get some measurements taken on everything and start ordering parts.
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Where you from? I have a Toyota adapter I am putting in my samurai
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I recommend not "replacing what looks bad" on these 8v heads. IMHO if there is 1 bad part you probably need to go through the entire thing. Unless you knew that you have a head with 10,000 miles and you just want to freshen it up, I would replace valves, seals, seats ground, guides. It is beneficial and less headaches later. Also, judging by 3 holes with new pistons and one not, whoever did this probably took every short cut possible, so I would replace everything on the head as a principle move.
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Polish the pre-chamber inserts to a shine and very closely inspect for the tiny cracks emanating from the opening. If the inserts are cracked, replace them.
If there is any palpable ridge in the top of the cylinder then your bores are out of spec (piston to cyl. clearance wear limit is 0.003). It is *very* rare for the bores to be within spec for honing. You can go to the last oversize (77.48mm). If doing so, make sure the machine shop that does the boring is willing and able to do the 0.0012 piston to cyl spec for new pistons.
It's less likely that someone replaced three pistons and more likely that they had an issue with the one that is different (e.g. dropped valve, broken pre-chamber insert, or foreign debris ingested as indicated by the impressions in the piston). I don't see the matching marks in the head (although there isn't a closeup of each combustion face) so the head might have been replaced.
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Where you from? I have a Toyota adapter I am putting in my samurai
I'm from Mooresville, NC
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I recommend not "replacing what looks bad" on these 8v heads. IMHO if there is 1 bad part you probably need to go through the entire thing. Unless you knew that you have a head with 10,000 miles and you just want to freshen it up, I would replace valves, seals, seats ground, guides. It is beneficial and less headaches later. Also, judging by 3 holes with new pistons and one not, whoever did this probably took every short cut possible, so I would replace everything on the head as a principle move.
I shouldn't of said replace parts as needed, this is what I meant. Probably going to just go through the entire head like you said.
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Polish the pre-chamber inserts to a shine and very closely inspect for the tiny cracks emanating from the opening. If the inserts are cracked, replace them.
If there is any palpable ridge in the top of the cylinder then your bores are out of spec (piston to cyl. clearance wear limit is 0.003). It is *very* rare for the bores to be within spec for honing. You can go to the last oversize (77.48mm). If doing so, make sure the machine shop that does the boring is willing and able to do the 0.0012 piston to cyl spec for new pistons.
It's less likely that someone replaced three pistons and more likely that they had an issue with the one that is different (e.g. dropped valve, broken pre-chamber insert, or foreign debris ingested as indicated by the impressions in the piston). I don't see the matching marks in the head (although there isn't a closeup of each combustion face) so the head might have been replaced.
Polish inside the prechambers or just the face? I looked over the inserts and didn't see any cracks but I'll make sure to give them a closer inspection.
There isn't really any ridge at the top of the cylinders, just some build up of diesel gunk that comes off with a rag and brake cleaner. I work at a mustang performance shop and have a engine builder I trust so I'm going to talk with him to see if he has ever messed with one of these before.
If something was dropped into the cylinders needing a rebuild it looks like another head was used after the "rebuild" as there aren't any matching marks in the head. I just don't understand why only replace 3 pistons.
Anone have any leads on good machine shops that are known for this kind of work in the Charlotte NC area just incase my guy doesn't want to take on the build?
Edit: I couldn't figure out how to multi quote on my phone
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The cracks on the inserts will be on the face, typically radiating from the thinner lip of the opening. You often will not be able to see them until ALL carbon/buildup has been removed and the insert shines.
As I said, I doubt that three pistons were replaced, but rather one was replaced as the one that was replaced was more significantly damaged than the other three.
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If you have not removed the pistons and rods yet, I would clean the tops of the existing pistons (very clean) and measure piston protrusion PRIOR to disassembly. Why? Because I would be trying to see if those rods appear to be matched on length.
Are you simply sure that the previous owner did not sand the top of one piston in an effort to remove craters?
I'm a bit confused as I thought all "CY" code engines were solid lifter engines......whatever. Hmmm...............
You are going to have to look around to find 4th oversize pistons. "Quality....(whatever name he uses)" in Montclair, Calif. may still have KS large pistons. If you can find an additional full set of rings to fit those big pistons (even though his KS would come with them), I would buy them now (for later ring wear). And, I say that because finding 4th-over rings (when you need them) is NOT an easy task.
If fitting a hydro head, you need new lifters as well. Hey.....hydro head rebuilding is NOT cheap (as you are soon to see).
Also, inspect the hydro cam for lobe flaking PRIOR to rebuilding. Many hydro cams had very poor hardened surfacing and they literally fall apart. Don't rebuild that hydro head until you can locate a good camshaft (if it needs it). Those cams are getting hard to locate.
I prefer to avoid the hydro head problems and expenses and run solid heads on hydro blocks......whatever.
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If you have not removed the pistons and rods yet, I would clean the tops of the existing pistons (very clean) and measure piston protrusion PRIOR to disassembly. Why? Because I would be trying to see if those rods appear to be matched on length.
Are you simply sure that the previous owner did not sand the top of one piston in an effort to remove craters?
I'm a bit confused as I thought all "CY" code engines were solid lifter engines......whatever. Hmmm...............
You are going to have to look around to find 4th oversize pistons. "Quality....(whatever name he uses)" in Montclair, Calif. may still have KS large pistons. If you can find an additional full set of rings to fit those big pistons (even though his KS would come with them), I would buy them now (for later ring wear). And, I say that because finding 4th-over rings (when you need them) is NOT an easy task.
If fitting a hydro head, you need new lifters as well. Hey.....hydro head rebuilding is NOT cheap (as you are soon to see).
Also, inspect the hydro cam for lobe flaking PRIOR to rebuilding. Many hydro cams had very poor hardened surfacing and they literally fall apart. Don't rebuild that hydro head until you can locate a good camshaft (if it needs it). Those cams are getting hard to locate.
I prefer to avoid the hydro head problems and expenses and run solid heads on hydro blocks......whatever.
I haven't taken the short block apart just yet, so I'll measure protrusion first. The only reason I don't think all four pistons were replaced is because three (1,2, and 4) all have the same numbers on the 76.98mm and a few other numbers stamped into the tops where piston number 3 is completely flat with no numbers in it.
Sorry for the confusion the head I have is a solid lifter head.
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Oh, is that head an AMC or China head?
It's got the 2nd oil return hole. Just wondering.
Did I miss something in the translation?
Does your engine block deck have BOTH oil return holes?
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The only reason I don't think all four pistons were replaced is because three (1,2, and 4) all have the same numbers on the 76.98mm and a few other numbers stamped into the tops where piston number 3 is completely flat with no numbers in it.
Are you suggesting that the previous owner over-bored and replaced the pistons on only three of the four cylinders. I've never heard of such a thing. Yes, the three that are marked are oversize and so obviously not original. The one that does not have any markings is ALSO not original and I would be astounded to find that it was not the same diameter as the other three.
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Oh, is that head an AMC or China head?
It's got the 2nd oil return hole. Just wondering.
Did I miss something in the translation?
Does your engine block deck have BOTH oil return holes?
The head says made in Germany on the injector side and has both drain holes. The block also has both drain holes. Looks like all the pistons stick out of the deck by a small amount.
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The only reason I don't think all four pistons were replaced is because three (1,2, and 4) all have the same numbers on the 76.98mm and a few other numbers stamped into the tops where piston number 3 is completely flat with no numbers in it.
Are you suggesting that the previous owner over-bored and replaced the pistons on only three of the four cylinders. I've never heard of such a thing. Yes, the three that are marked are oversize and so obviously not original. The one that does not have any markings is ALSO not original and I would be astounded to find that it was not the same diameter as the other three.
Thats what I was assuming was done but like I said im not 100% until I have measured everything.
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I've never heard of a machine shop over-boring just some of the cylinders. I believe it would cause significant imbalance in the engine. You said the single piston is just flat, are you saying it doesn't have the cloverleaf cutout?
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I've never heard of a machine shop over-boring just some of the cylinders. I believe it would cause significant imbalance in the engine. You said the single piston is just flat, are you saying it doesn't have the cloverleaf cutout?
No it has the cut out just missing the numbers, I just took a set of calipers and and did my best at measuring the bore size but im not holding to these numbers as 1. my battery was dead so im going off the ruler on the side of the caliper and 2. it was only measuring the top 3/8ths of the cylinder. All the bores measure 77mm so it was over bored on all cylinders just 1 different piston.
Also pulled a main cap off and they are standard size, and the numbers on the rod bearings are 07-87, 033 701.
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You will need to plug that 2nd oil hole as Dakotakid pointed out. That should have been done before. No CY should have been hydraulic, so you may have a mess there.
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You will need to plug that 2nd oil hole as Dakotakid pointed out. That should have been done before. No CY should have been hydraulic, so you may have a mess there.
Its not a hydraulic head
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Your picture of the head clearly shows the oil hole between Cyl 1 and Cyl 2 which is only present on hydraulic heads. The solid lifter heads have a coolant channel there and a depression on the outside of the head rather than the extra bump...
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/libbybapa/Hydro%20Head_zpsp0ckvd6l.jpg)
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Your picture of the head clearly shows the oil hole between Cyl 1 and Cyl 2 which is only present on hydraulic heads. The solid lifter heads have a coolant channel there and a depression on the outside of the head rather than the extra bump...
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/libbybapa/Hydro%20Head_zpsp0ckvd6l.jpg)
Ah I see now...So this head is clearly not original correct?
My bad for not knowing like I said im new to these. Best thing for me to probably do is order a new head right?
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Make sure you actually have a CY block. If you have a hydro block all is well, but CY was never a hydro. You could block that passage and run a mechanical head gasket as that is what I am doing right now on my CY engine, but if you have to go through the entire head and you could find a solid lifter head cheaper, do whatever. Someone may need a core hydro head and you could recoup some cost. Or do as I did, whatever works
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If you post up a pic of the block head gasket surface I can tell you which it is.
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Make sure you actually have a CY block. If you have a hydro block all is well, but CY was never a hydro. You could block that passage and run a mechanical head gasket as that is what I am doing right now on my CY engine, but if you have to go through the entire head and you could find a solid lifter head cheaper, do whatever. Someone may need a core hydro head and you could recoup some cost. Or do as I did, whatever works
It is a CY block I know that for a fact as that's the first thing I looked for on the block.
I still haven't pulled the rotating assembly out yet but I did look down into the bottom end and saw a few part numbers on the pistons, looks like all the pistons are the same so that kind of makes me feel better about it. I don't know why the one doesn't have any marking on the face like the other three. Still hoping to be able to hone it and put fresh rings/bearings in the bottom end but with my luck it'll need to be bored again and I'll have to buy new pistons.
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This is a supplement to all the above. I never knew they made hydro "CY" blocks. I DO know that CY blocks appear to have a bit more nickel in the cast iron and that substantially helps with engine life (without making machining more difficult). The CY's actually physically feel heavier when you grunt the empty block around.
Here is an additive to help you in the rebuild: do NOT fit crankshaft bearings with an integrated center main. THAT is all the parts places want to sell these days and it is NOT the hot ticket. Integrated center bearings are like "loaning" your girlfriend to the local biker gang.....NOT good!
If you NEED crank bearings, buy a set to fit a 1997 AHU tdi diesel. Those are the IDENTICAL bearings the way they used to be sold for our little pea-shooter engines. If your engine is currently fitted with an integrated center, you will have to acquire the four thrust bearings (shims/inserts) to be fitted along-side the center bearing.
Also, do not overlook wrist pin bushings as well.......a lot of these guys do.....don't you make that mistake.
EDIT: Also, those rods will need a reconditioning or good check/measurement. You are going to be attempting to use this engine to pull a heavier vehicle than it's original purpose (unless it originally was in a vanagoon. Anyway, I personally would NOT take any shortcuts on the rebuild.
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(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd308/86_LX/Mobile%20Uploads/20150908_100540_zps488191b4.jpg)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd308/86_LX/Mobile%20Uploads/20150908_100545_zpsaa328512.jpg)
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This is a supplement to all the above. I never knew they made hydro "CY" blocks. I DO know that CY blocks appear to have a bit more nickel in the cast iron and that substantially helps with engine life (without making machining more difficult). The CY's actually physically feel heavier when you grunt the empty block around.
Here is an additive to help you in the rebuild: do NOT fit crankshaft bearings with an integrated center main. THAT is all the parts places want to sell these days and it is NOT the hot ticket. Integrated center bearings are like "loaning" your girlfriend to the local biker gang.....NOT good!
If you NEED crank bearings, buy a set to fit a 1997 AHU tdi diesel. Those are the IDENTICAL bearings the way they used to be sold for our little pea-shooter engines. If your engine is currently fitted with an integrated center, you will have to acquire the four thrust bearings (shims/inserts) to be fitted along-side the center bearing.
Also, do not overlook wrist pin bushings as well.......a lot of these guys do.....don't you make that mistake.
EDIT: Also, those rods will need a reconditioning or good check/measurement. You are going to be attempting to use this engine to pull a heavier vehicle than it's original purpose (unless it originally was in a vanagoon. Anyway, I personally would NOT take any shortcuts on the rebuild.
Thanks for the info
As for the rods, if they check out (not bent or cracked) ill have them shot peened/polished along with new wrist pin bushing pressed in.
The rebuild wont be started for a little while, im going to pull the rotating assembly and bolt the head back on so I can mock it up in the truck and build some mounts.
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Well, that's a hydraulic block. Totally weird that it is the CY code. Please post a closeup of the top of the lifters also.
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I'll get a few pics when I get home tonight.
Being I'm going to look for a new head and need a intake anyways would it make sense to find a 1.9 head?
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Being I'm going to look for a new head and need a intake anyways would it make sense to find a 1.9 head?
Not really. The 1.9 head lowers the compression ratio a few points which will make cold starts more difficult. It'll tend to be smoky after it does start too. Unless you're planning on building a really high power IDI (like 150+ hp) then the AAZ head's drawbacks will probably outweigh its positives.
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A new 1.6TD head will either be a Chinese knock-off or very hard to find and $$$. In your position I would choose to rebuild the head you have.
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The price for a ks aaz head is around 900$ I ended up going that route as it was hard for me to find a good quality head locally.
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With replacing all the valves, lifters, guides, and inserts and having the necessary machine work done on that head it would be half the cost of a new KS AAZ head.
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ok got home and pulled one of the pistons out, numbers on them are KS1275 076091 2+ 22 U1K based off these numbers im thinking they are a set of Kolbenschmidt? The skirt on the piston I removed honestly doesn't look like it was ran long but I could be wrong wouldn't be the first time.
Also took a pic of the rod that was removed, looks stock to me there are a few numbers on it: YU UK2, The bearing on this one had some miles on it and was worn a good bit. Im thinking when that pistons were installed they reused the factory rod and main bearings. If this is the case the date code of the rod bearing is 07-87 so im thinking its a 1987 build.
Also went after the pre- chamber with a piece of 400 grit wet sand paper and turns out 2 of the inserts have a small crack in them.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd308/86_LX/Mobile%20Uploads/20150908_194032_zps93a620f1.jpg)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd308/86_LX/Mobile%20Uploads/20150908_194022_zpsd2eb5144.jpg)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd308/86_LX/Mobile%20Uploads/20150908_193538_zpsbf0a2470.jpg)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd308/86_LX/Mobile%20Uploads/20150908_193544_zps10a5197c.jpg)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd308/86_LX/Mobile%20Uploads/20150908_193648_zpsdaf51c58.jpg)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd308/86_LX/Mobile%20Uploads/20150908_193615_zps2828490b.jpg)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd308/86_LX/Mobile%20Uploads/20150908_193624_zpsf53ce017.jpg)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd308/86_LX/Mobile%20Uploads/20150908_195111_zps3f39c611.jpg)
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Definitely hydraulic lifters. Replace the two cracked pre-chamber inserts.
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???CY was done by 84, hyrdro didn't even think of coming out until the late 85 built stuff??? That is a unicorn I believe.
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You know, a Bentley manual would help you as time goes by. If you do rebuild the head, there is info regarding the valve length vs. the process of seat grinding/cutting which you will need to be aware of.
It will be interesting to see ALL of the main bearings laid out side-by-side as it does seem someone renewed the pistons and left the bearings untouched. Would be cool to see them all paired up (face up) on a piece of cardboard with journals numbered. It helps to judge how healthy the crank journals are for all us'n arm-chair mechanics 8).
Also, can't wait to see the condition of that front int. shaft bearing.
Autopsies are interesting.
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Maybe Audi or offshore...
1.6 R4 TD 44-51kW[edit]
identification
parts code prefix: 068
engine configuration & engine displacement
inline four-cylinder (R4/I4) turbodiesel; 1,588 cubic centimetres (96.9 cu in); bore x stroke: 76.5 by 86.4 millimetres (3.01 in × 3.40 in), stroke ratio: 0.89:1 - undersquare/long-stroke, 391.1 cc per cylinder, compression ratio: 23.0:1
cylinder block & crankcase
grey cast iron; five main bearings
cylinder head & valvetrain
two valves per cylinder, each with two concentric valve springs, 8 valves total, shim-adjustable bucket tappets, timing belt-driven single overhead camshaft (SOHC)
aspiration
Garrett or Kühnle, Kopp & Kausch (KKK) turbocharger, cast aluminium alloy intake manifold, cast iron exhaust manifold
fuel system
timing belt-driven Bosch mechanical distributor injection pump, indirect fuel injection into whirl chamber
EWG-rated motive power & torque outputs, application and ID codes
45 kilowatts (61 PS; 60 bhp) — Volkswagen Industrial Motor (68A: 04/83-08/88), (686: 03/89-12/90)
50 kilowatts (68 PS; 67 bhp) — Volkswagen Industrial Motor (68C: 04/83-03/94)
DIN-rated motive power & torque outputs, ID codes
51 kilowatts (69 PS; 68 bhp) @ 4,500 rpm; 133 newton metres (98 lbf·ft) @ 2,600 rpm — CY, JR
51 kilowatts (69 PS; 68 bhp) @ 4,500 rpm; 138 newton metres (102 lbf·ft) @ 2,500 rpm — JX
applications
Audi 80 (CY: 02/82-03/87), Volkswagen Golf (CY: 8/81-7/84, JR: 08/83-10/91), Volkswagen Jetta (CY: 8/81-7/84, JR: 12/83-10/91), Volkswagen Passat (CY: 8/81-4/88), Volkswagen Type 2 (JX: 8/84-7/91), Volkswagen Type 2 Syncro (JX: 8/85-7/92)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_discontinued_Volkswagen_Group_diesel_engines#Four-cylinder_EA111_diesels
www.clubvw.org.au/vwengines
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You know, a Bentley manual would help you as time goes by. If you do rebuild the head, there is info regarding the valve length vs. the process of seat grinding/cutting which you will need to be aware of.
It will be interesting to see ALL of the main bearings laid out side-by-side as it does seem someone renewed the pistons and left the bearings untouched. Would be cool to see them all paired up (face up) on a piece of cardboard with journals numbered. It helps to judge how healthy the crank journals are for all us'n arm-chair mechanics 8).
Also, can't wait to see the condition of that front int. shaft bearing.
Autopsies are interesting.
Probably a good idea, are they similar to a chilton's manual? Are they specific to models or engine? Ill pull all the bearings tomorrow and do just that.
Maybe Audi or offshore...
1.6 R4 TD 44-51kW[edit]
identification
parts code prefix: 068
engine configuration & engine displacement
inline four-cylinder (R4/I4) turbodiesel; 1,588 cubic centimetres (96.9 cu in); bore x stroke: 76.5 by 86.4 millimetres (3.01 in × 3.40 in), stroke ratio: 0.89:1 - undersquare/long-stroke, 391.1 cc per cylinder, compression ratio: 23.0:1
cylinder block & crankcase
grey cast iron; five main bearings
cylinder head & valvetrain
two valves per cylinder, each with two concentric valve springs, 8 valves total, shim-adjustable bucket tappets, timing belt-driven single overhead camshaft (SOHC)
aspiration
Garrett or Kühnle, Kopp & Kausch (KKK) turbocharger, cast aluminium alloy intake manifold, cast iron exhaust manifold
fuel system
timing belt-driven Bosch mechanical distributor injection pump, indirect fuel injection into whirl chamber
EWG-rated motive power & torque outputs, application and ID codes
45 kilowatts (61 PS; 60 bhp) — Volkswagen Industrial Motor (68A: 04/83-08/88), (686: 03/89-12/90)
50 kilowatts (68 PS; 67 bhp) — Volkswagen Industrial Motor (68C: 04/83-03/94)
DIN-rated motive power & torque outputs, ID codes
51 kilowatts (69 PS; 68 bhp) @ 4,500 rpm; 133 newton metres (98 lbf·ft) @ 2,600 rpm — CY, JR
51 kilowatts (69 PS; 68 bhp) @ 4,500 rpm; 138 newton metres (102 lbf·ft) @ 2,500 rpm — JX
applications
Audi 80 (CY: 02/82-03/87), Volkswagen Golf (CY: 8/81-7/84, JR: 08/83-10/91), Volkswagen Jetta (CY: 8/81-7/84, JR: 12/83-10/91), Volkswagen Passat (CY: 8/81-4/88), Volkswagen Type 2 (JX: 8/84-7/91), Volkswagen Type 2 Syncro (JX: 8/85-7/92)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_discontinued_Volkswagen_Group_diesel_engines#Four-cylinder_EA111_diesels
www.clubvw.org.au/vwengines
I was told from the guy I got it from that it was out of a 1985 Passat but the date on the rod bearings say its an 1987? Thanks for all that info!
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Got the rest of the pistons pulled out to check out the bearings, they have a good bit of wear on them. The crank has some slight scuffing. Anyways onto the pics Cap bearings on the bottom, Rod side on top
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd308/86_LX/Mobile%20Uploads/20150909_192423_zps675bb364.jpg)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd308/86_LX/Mobile%20Uploads/20150909_192442_zps4f8e37c1.jpg)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd308/86_LX/Mobile%20Uploads/20150909_192434_zpsb5cc4fd7.jpg)
Also got a pic of the IM shaft bearing
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd308/86_LX/Mobile%20Uploads/20150909_192506_zpsac7be1fa.jpg)
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Say.....this looks pretty darned good coming apart. I was so curious about all this.
That front int. shaft bearing being in that good of shape should yield even wear on the crank bearings as well.
Someone did not over-tighten that cam belt (front int. bearing not destroyed) and someone also tended to change oil! cool. When you said this was a Craigslist or whatever engine, I was expecting the worst. Glad to see something far better than carnage. Congrats, dude.
As far as the Bentley I suggested, it would give you torque specs and discussion on required clearance at the top of the valve stems (after cutting the seats and fitting new valves) to ensure adequate room for the hydro lifters to work properly. BUT, as I look at those valves in the head, they appear to be the oem valves based on the little dot on the intakes and smooth on the exhausts. My guess, is that the seats have never been cut after leaving the factory. THAT is good news as fitment of new valves and adequate clearance above the valve should be no prob.
A Bentley which covers hydro engines would help, BUT, you can probably get by without by conversing with someone who is familiar with these. I think there is Bentley stuff on the internet somewhere. If you need scans of some pages for info, feel free to pm me....my scanner works.
You're a new guy here. But, you are an attentive and seemingly bright guy and THAT is refreshing. Very refreshing.
Lastly, years of buying parts has taught me that autohausaz.com is generally where you get the best prices on most of the parts you will need. Unless you have some sort of in-house connection. The Phoenix seller (listed) does not always have everything...but, they do pretty well. For some reason, their int. med. shaft bearings are not easy to find....but, they do have them. You just need the original VW part number to get them.
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It looked pretty clean coming apart. No deep scratches on the crank/no discolored caps. I'm going to take the crank to my machine shop when I talk with them and make sure it doesn't need to be turned, then I'll start collecting parts. Probably just going to punch it out to 1mm and order new pistons (any recommendations on a piston set?).
Plan on shot peeing/polishing the rods, ARP main and head studs, new oem rod/main bearings, 1mm over pistons, balance the rotating assembly, port the head, replace to two pre chambers that are cracked, valve job, check the springs and replace if needed, new valve seals and guides.
That should get me back to a good longblock that should last me years. Are there any places to send off the injectors and have them rebuilt? Any upgraded nozzles out there that could be done while getting rebuilt? The injection pump looks very clean and may even be newish, anyway to check this?
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IMO you should not have the crank turned. If you do, you lose the factory hardening. Most crankshafts are totally within spec and if it is not, then find a replacement that is. Usually the only thing needed aside from polish is a sleeve on each seal surface.
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He's exactly correct on the crank info ^. These cranks are very nice.
Earlier, I pointed you in the direction of big pistons. But, here is the link: http://qualitygermanautoparts.com/
Look under diesel components to find them. He has other pieces/parts as well. Generally, you can get the other components for less money at Arizona. However, you will be paying for freight on the pistons anyway....so, he might be able to include other parts for not much freight.
This place is one of the few places to sell 4th over and they just happen to be the best price you will find, too. Kolbenschmidt rings are very hard rings (moly?) compared to Goetze rings. But, the KS rings last a l-o-n-g time under most conditions. KS rings also tend to use some oil.....but, what the hey?
If that block does not need "punching," I would NOT be in a big hurry to go that route. But, your measurements will tell that tale. It is just that a block which gets to 4th over is....well, toward the end of it's life and there is no turning back. Plus, as I stated earlier, 4th over rings are hard to find.