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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: dave friday on July 21, 2015, 10:19:14 pm
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Morning all,my newly fitted sb engine is very noisy [clattery] on start up,it does quiten after a few seconds though,any ideas?
Ta.
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I am not familiar with the SB engine....are those hydraulic lifters?
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Hi Dakota,yes hydraulic..
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I guess the next question would be if the noisy lifters comprise only one or two of them or if it is ALL of the 8 being slow to pump up.
Personally, I HATE hydraulic lifter engines. If this engine has not seen regular oil changes (prior to entry into your life), it is very possible the oil galley(s) in the head are somewhat occluded. OR, it could be a case of just one or to worn lifters.
If it is an "overall" lifter situation, the head may need to be removed, totally disassembled, and placed in a hot engine bath flush tank/system. The oil passages would need to be flushed with a pressurized stream of the solvent (small hose and orifice held to force fluid into and through the oil passages).
I once had "luck" cleaning a gas hyd. head by disassembling it and placing it in a "hotsy" brand (hot soap and water spray machine) cleaner. In those, the part simply sits on a rack and gets jet sprayed. However, I think it is harder to clear diesel passages due to the "greasier" carbon-filled nature of the engine oil.
New lifters would be nice as well. THIS is why I heavily "gravitate" away from hydr. VW engines in both gas and diesel varieties. Solid lifter heads cost less to rebuild and maintain over their life. Do I still have a few hydr. engines in the fleet? Yes.
Also, the hydr. camshafts have a problem with poor hardened surfaces and the damaged lobes can beat the hydr. lifters as they "de-scale."
Currently, I've got a gas 1.8 hyd. head with this same problem. Both lifters on the #1 cylinder are very slow to pump up. And, swapping lifters (in the past) have done me no good. This head needs to come off. But, when THAT happens, a solid-lifter GTI head will be employed instead.
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Thanks for a very full reply.A bit more info;the engine is reasonably quiet when cranking to get the oil pressure up,its only when it starts that its clattery [one or more faulty injectors?].
All the cam followers seem to follow the cam lobes ok [no gaps].
The engine will only run for 5seconds before stalling,it takes a lot of cranking before it starts!
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so the motor takes a lot of cranking?? the clattering prob is the air purging out if fuel side; sounds like you have air in the fuel; check clear line, if you have one.
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Yes it has clear feed and return lines,we had to fill the pump from a can of Diesel to get the engine to run,will bleed the hard injector pipes tomorrow [its 23.25 here].
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Ok...fitted a known good pump from the jx engine,checked the gloplugs one open circuit one 340 ohms??this got the engine running [very lumpy n clattery] two duff injectors later smooth running!!
So result!
Thanks for your help.
Kr,Baz.
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sounds like its been a while since youve changed out the glow plugs; not a bad idea to do, especially before it turns cold, buy bosch only!, use anti-seize, if your still running a relay, its not a bad idea to have a spare.
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The new [new to me] sb I installed was from a junk yard,so I had no idea how long it had been standing unused!
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The new [new to me] sb I installed
sb as im looking at it is what? i thought it was syncro-bus??sounds good, i would have loved to freshen up the motor, a few new things and stuff, like bearings and head work, but thats not the most important,,she's running, you say she's running good, well enough
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is there anyway to know if it was running synthetic oil??probably not,,dont run syn oil, run a good conventional oil,
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SB is an engine code.
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Yes sb is the engine code [hydro cam followers,watercooled turbo, intercooler].
Why shouldn't I use synth oil?
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No reason.
If the rings are fairly worn, you might have consumption issues.
Won't know until you try.
Not sure what is available in Spain. Maybe some high-tech spaghetti oil? Like.......5/40 garlic special?
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No reason.
If the rings are fairly worn, you might have consumption issues.
i ll have to outline this;;when synthetics came out they had superior additives&cleaning action too,,for another thing this motor is of that time frame, what can happen is the conventional oil used in a motor leaves many more deposits around motor,,switching to a syn oil @^70k mile or so, can wash these deposits around oil passages and can easily and its not uncommon for passages to clogg, like i said this is an older motor that will be susceptible to this (not uncommon) problem. for newer motors i stand by this as a rule too, a fancy oil should wash surface(of passages&everything else), taking chances like this seem obvious to me,,a good conventional oil of diesel rated 10w-30 is my favorite, the 15w-40 is thick for my taste, and a 5w-40 must be a synthetic i do believe,,not to say ive heard the stories about such wide grades of oils,, when the 5w-30 conv & the 10w-40 conv oils came out they were heralded as the Worst thing they could do at the time,,and 5w-40 is even a wider of a gap than 5w-30, back then you stuck with 5w-20 for stability, or ran 10w-30,,
added:the base oils back then to list them any sae straight weight is ok if it works in a motor(not brand, but weight), for multi-viscosity 5w-20, 10w-30, 15w-40, 20w-50. back when synthetics first hit the main stream,, these were the weights of choice, 5w-30&10w-40 were doing terrible, too many problems with that 'gap' in the viscosity, the oils i listed(all conventional oils) were preffered and more stable than other oils(conv in this case).
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My main reason for using synth oil is because of the high ambient temps 30/40deg c!!and the high oil temps in the engine 120/130 deg c! its 29 deg c now at 1am...
Dakota its rice in Spain although chips [as in fish n chips] have replaced rice,Italy does all that pasta stuff!
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My main reason for using synth oil is because of the high ambient temps 30/40deg c!!and the high oil temps in the engine 120/130 deg c! its 29 deg c now at 1am...
sh*t thats 260f that sounds way to hott!!