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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: 92EcoDiesel Jetta on October 18, 2014, 07:47:51 am
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Anyone with experience with these 2 clutch kits from autohausaz?
www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=2botx5454ummsc55jw243545&makeid=800026@VW&modelid=1283486@JETTA%20GL%20TDI%20&year=1992&cid=15@Clutch%20Parts&gid=1993@Clutch%20Kit
Which is the better one to get for my 92 Eco D? Price difference is not that much.
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Your eco had a 200mm clutch, so unless you change the flywheel you cannot use the 210mm. I have no experience with either, but Luk clutches are the bomb.
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Yeah, didn't notice the 210 mm is for the 1.8.
Is this Luk clutch better than the Sachs?
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1992/volkswagen/jetta/clutch/clutch_kit.html
Never bought from Partsgeek.com before. Are they reputable? With shipping it's $96, cheaper than the one Autohaus offers.
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I have a truck with a Luk clutch that all it does is haul firewood and trailers with over 130,000 miles on it and it is as good as day 1. I also have an extra vw 210mm clutch that I put 10,000 miles on and it was perfect when I took it out *engine exploded* Also on the mkiv the dual mass flywheel cars could be tuned to a stage 1.5 or 2 IIRC IF they had the Luk clutch and not the sachs from factory from what I found searching when I tuned mine.
The Luk company has plants all over the world and one happens to be 20 minutes from my house. I know people there in test and it is crazy what the clutches will take. I will not say which is better straight out, but I can say you will have many happy miles with the Luk clutch if you surface the flywheel and install properly.
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I'd go with the LUK, I had a couple premature failures with the Sachs kits, though that was a couple years ago.
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Ditto the Luk recommendation, have had a couple weird failures with Sachs recently, as have others.
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I'll get the Luk then. Do the flywheel bolts need to be replaced or can they be reused? I should also replace the crank seal while in there? Is the Elring seal better than a Victor Reinze?
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It is recommended to replace all the bolts if they are the later model stretch bolts. I have mixed feelings on the crank seal. I sometimes think if it wasn't leaking don't touch it. At the same time I think xxx,xxx miles I would be stupid not to, but quality of parts is in question now days. I used the VW one piece Teflon seal for the TDI ALH IIRC on my last build. No leaks, but you have to drill out the oil pan and gasket for 7mm bolts.
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How do I tell if they are the later stretch bolts or not? It's a 92 Eco Diesel with 220k miles. Do you have a post with the mod to the ALH teflon seal? What's the advantage compared to the OE seal?
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How do I tell if they are the later stretch bolts or not? It's a 92 Eco Diesel with 220k miles. Do you have a post with the mod to the ALH teflon seal? What's the advantage compared to the OE seal?
I forget on the bolts but IIRC it was something to do if they were shouldered or not.
No pic, same seal carrier, but a one piece Teflon seal and 7mm bolts. There is no spring in the Teflon so the idea is it won't cut into the crank after miles. When installing you do NOT move the crank for a while after. It needs to reshape to the crank so it doesn't leak. Some say it in the instructions some don't, but most will leak if you rotate the engine after you install it, just a heads up if you go that route.